Bedding Brakes

larry barnhart wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Back in the "DAY" I would have my local NAPA "ARCH" or "ARC" the brake shoes to exactly fit the turned drums radius.

same for me but seems like that is not the way it is now?? chevman

I have not heard of anyone doing it any longer.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Back in the "DAY" I would have my local NAPA "ARCH" or "ARC" the brake shoes to exactly fit the turned drums radius.

same for me but seems like that is not the way it is now?? chevman

Shade tree mechanic here. Like it's been said, "follow the manufacturer instructions" because it's not a requirement for all. I just did the front brakes on my 2500hd using ACDelco Gold Enhanced Performance Severe Duty Rotors and no where does it say anything about a "bedding" procedure, just pump the pedal to push the caliper piston against the pads.

Back in the "DAY" I would have my local NAPA "ARCH" or "ARC" the brake shoes to exactly fit the turned drums radius.

What bedding the brakes does is to transfer a microscopic layer of brake material from the pad/shoe to the disc/drum surface. This is accomplished by “repeatedly” heating the brakes and letting them cool in a prescribed method as directed by the manufacturer. Greater friction is generated from brake material to brake material than from brake material to cast iron.

If you believe that you are more knowledgeable than the manufacturer, good luck.

It’s always done on race cars as braking is somewhat an important thing.

Grit dog wrote:

Chum lee wrote:
IMO, bedding new brake pads/rotors is a good practice but usually not necessary provided the technician who replaced the pads/rotors actually drives the vehicle a few hundred feet after servicing it.

For those who do not understand how disc/drum brakes work: In modern days, most brakes are self adjusting, but, do require the first initial few pumps to adjust themselves to their respective mating surfaces by filling the caliper pistons (with brake fluid) to the correct amount. The new wear surfaces are also initially very porous (irregularities) and may have contamination on them from the repair process.

The first driver may not be aware of this and be surprised when the first few pedal pumps go to the floor before they get any braking action. The pedal usually pumps up (the brakes adjust themselves) very quickly.

To get full braking action, it usually requires a few aggressive stops. That's what brake bedding does. Driving moderately will do the same thing after a few miles. IME, it's those who EXPECT new brakes to work perfectly the first time who end up rear ending someone.

Chum lee

What you're describing has literally nothing to do with bedding in new brakes...

You are correct. For high performance brake bedding techniques, FOLLOW THE BRAKE BEDDING INSTRUCTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER. In my initial statement, I said, "USUALLY." We're talking motorhomes here, not high performance/race cars. If you are putting cross drilled and/or slotted rotors with metallic, ceramic, or carbon fiber pads on your motorhome, then follow the bedding instructions of the manufacturer, if any. For run of the mill OEM pads and rotors on a motorhome, unless the manufacturer specifically says otherwise, I stand by what I said.

Chum lee

Grit dog wrote:
Boy we gotta room full of know it all shade tree mechanics here…lol

X2!!!

Safe travels and remember:

"I'm no expert but I play one on the internet"

Chum lee wrote:
IMO, bedding new brake pads/rotors is a good practice but usually not necessary provided the technician who replaced the pads/rotors actually drives the vehicle a few hundred feet after servicing it.

For those who do not understand how disc/drum brakes work: In modern days, most brakes are self adjusting, but, do require the first initial few pumps to adjust themselves to their respective mating surfaces by filling the caliper pistons (with brake fluid) to the correct amount. The new wear surfaces are also initially very porous (irregularities) and may have contamination on them from the repair process.

The first driver may not be aware of this and be surprised when the first few pedal pumps go to the floor before they get any braking action. The pedal usually pumps up (the brakes adjust themselves) very quickly.

To get full braking action, it usually requires a few aggressive stops. That's what brake bedding does. Driving moderately will do the same thing after a few miles. IME, it's those who EXPECT new brakes to work perfectly the first time who end up rear ending someone.

Chum lee

What you're describing has literally nothing to do with bedding in new brakes...

Grit dog wrote:
Boy we gotta room full of know it all shade tree mechanics here…lol

And your qualifications are? GRIN

Richard

IMO, bedding new brake pads/rotors is a good practice but usually not necessary provided the technician who replaced the pads/rotors actually drives the vehicle a few hundred feet after servicing it.

For those who do not understand how disc/drum brakes work: In modern days, most brakes are self adjusting, but, do require the first initial few pumps to adjust themselves to their respective mating surfaces by filling the caliper pistons (with brake fluid) to the correct amount. The new wear surfaces are also initially very porous (irregularities) and may have contamination on them from the repair process.

The first driver may not be aware of this and be surprised when the first few pedal pumps go to the floor before they get any braking action. The pedal usually pumps up (the brakes adjust themselves) very quickly.

To get full braking action, it usually requires a few aggressive stops. That's what brake bedding does. Driving moderately will do the same thing after a few miles. IME, it's those who EXPECT new brakes to work perfectly the first time who end up rear ending someone.

Chum lee