New Fuzion 345 Chrome TH owner as of Friday. Yeah!!Had it at the house for the weekend but took it to the storage lot where I will keep it in between uses. When not plugged into electric in storage (say for 2 weeks or longer between uses), do I need to auto level it or no? Today, I auto leveled it, but it resulted in one of the wheels completely off the ground a few inches..so I manually adjusted so all wheels were on the ground. If I get electric run to where I am parked, then obviously I would level it for the fridge. In doing this, and a wheel or two is off the ground (rig supported by the 6 hydraulics), should I put some lynx pads under the wheels or dont worry about it?Last one...has three awnings, but two main ones on the side..I am shocked that when they are extended, they go up evenly..ie no way to tilt it to let water run off? The PDI guy said if it rains, dont have awning up as it will sit up there...seems odd..old style manual ones could be tilted. I did get 2 awning stabilizer kits(corkscrew things)...1) do these need to be put up and 2) if so, couldnt I tighten one down on one side to get a tilt to the awning to drain water? I would think it would compress the strut on that one side and work? When using these stabilizer, PDI guy said I would have to carry a ladder in order to put them on and take them off....so I need to carry a 10ft ladder around just to have awnings? Surely I am missing something here?

It does not need to be level in storage unless the refrigerator is on. I like the old awnings & ordered ours with a manual awning. But I use ratchet cargo tie downs to snug ? (wind protection about $2 each) tie the awning down..... do not use excessive force. I understand on power awnings there is a way to tilt them somewhat. No ladder needed for securing the awning. I bought dog tie outs (cheaper & the same) as the awning cork-screw tie downs.

Hi,The CO meter and propane leak detector can use up 35 amp hour daily, and if you had not planned on returning to the RV you might want to if you did not disconnect the battery, so it will not be damaged by being 100% dead in about 6 days. You do not need a ladder to put on a bungy cord on the awning to keep it from sliding out while traveling due to the wind. Just reach up as high as you can, and put it there.The tires can stay off the ground, but I like the idea of them sitting on the ground, so what you did should be great. Unless you have solar, the battery will be dead in a couple of days, so don't plan on running your refrigerator while in storage. If you can plug in the trailer, on electric it will consume about 3-5 KW daily, and add about $15 a month to the electric bill where ever it is parked. I would leave my refrigerator off until a couple of days before I needed it.I would always recommend solar - at least 100W if you can not plug in the RV. This will keep the battery topped off. Only about $150 at this place. SunElec.com I would select a 12 volt nominal panel and a PWM controller around 20 amps and $25 - $45. Have fun camping!Fred.

You should have gotten a manual for the awning along with all the other 12 or so manuals with your new trailer.I have an auto Dometic on my new 2015 and it will automatically collapse on one side from the weight of the water. Found out last Thanksgiving during a downpour.

gtsum wrote:New Fuzion 345 Chrome TH owner as of Friday. Yeah!!Had it at the house for the weekend but took it to the storage lot where I will keep it in between uses. When not plugged into electric in storage (say for 2 weeks or longer between uses), do I need to auto level it or no? Today, I auto leveled it, but it resulted in one of the wheels completely off the ground a few inches..so I manually adjusted so all wheels were on the ground. If I get electric run to where I am parked, then obviously I would level it for the fridge. In doing this, and a wheel or two is off the ground (rig supported by the 6 hydraulics), should I put some lynx pads under the wheels or dont worry about it?Last one...has three awnings, but two main ones on the side..I am shocked that when they are extended, they go up evenly..ie no way to tilt it to let water run off? The PDI guy said if it rains, dont have awning up as it will sit up there...seems odd..old style manual ones could be tilted. I did get 2 awning stabilizer kits(corkscrew things)...1) do these need to be put up and 2) if so, couldnt I tighten one down on one side to get a tilt to the awning to drain water? I would think it would compress the strut on that one side and work? When using these stabilizer, PDI guy said I would have to carry a ladder in order to put them on and take them off....so I need to carry a 10ft ladder around just to have awnings? Surely I am missing something here?If you can be assured that leaving it on the levelers for extended times (months?), then why not? Takes some stress off the tires. If not, then it's no big deal, unless you plan on running the fridge. On the electric awnings, I believe they have a rain dump built in if they get too heavy. Basically, a spring that allows one side to tilt and dump the water if it gets to heavy. I have no electric awning experience at this time, so can't say definitively, only from what I've read here and in advertising. If you don't have a battery disconnect from the factory, put one on one of your battery posts. There's enough parasitic draw from gas detectors, clocks and electronic memories that you'll kill the batteries in about 60-90 days.Lyle

New TH Owner..couple questions... | Good Sam Community

24 Replies

laknox
Nomad
Apr 20, 2015
gtsum wrote:
New Fuzion 345 Chrome TH owner as of Friday. Yeah!!

Had it at the house for the weekend but took it to the storage lot where I will keep it in between uses. When not plugged into electric in storage (say for 2 weeks or longer between uses), do I need to auto level it or no? Today, I auto leveled it, but it resulted in one of the wheels completely off the ground a few inches..so I manually adjusted so all wheels were on the ground. If I get electric run to where I am parked, then obviously I would level it for the fridge. In doing this, and a wheel or two is off the ground (rig supported by the 6 hydraulics), should I put some lynx pads under the wheels or dont worry about it?

Last one...has three awnings, but two main ones on the side..I am shocked that when they are extended, they go up evenly..ie no way to tilt it to let water run off? The PDI guy said if it rains, dont have awning up as it will sit up there...seems odd..old style manual ones could be tilted. I did get 2 awning stabilizer kits(corkscrew things)...1) do these need to be put up and 2) if so, couldnt I tighten one down on one side to get a tilt to the awning to drain water? I would think it would compress the strut on that one side and work? When using these stabilizer, PDI guy said I would have to carry a ladder in order to put them on and take them off....so I need to carry a 10ft ladder around just to have awnings? Surely I am missing something here?

If you can be assured that leaving it on the levelers for extended times (months?), then why not? Takes some stress off the tires. If not, then it's no big deal, unless you plan on running the fridge. On the electric awnings, I believe they have a rain dump built in if they get too heavy. Basically, a spring that allows one side to tilt and dump the water if it gets to heavy. I have no electric awning experience at this time, so can't say definitively, only from what I've read here and in advertising. If you don't have a battery disconnect from the factory, put one on one of your battery posts. There's enough parasitic draw from gas detectors, clocks and electronic memories that you'll kill the batteries in about 60-90 days.

Lyle
N-Trouble
Explorer
Apr 20, 2015
You should have gotten a manual for the awning along with all the other 12 or so manuals with your new trailer.

I have an auto Dometic on my new 2015 and it will automatically collapse on one side from the weight of the water. Found out last Thanksgiving during a downpour.
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Apr 20, 2015
Hi,

The CO meter and propane leak detector can use up 35 amp hour daily, and if you had not planned on returning to the RV you might want to if you did not disconnect the battery, so it will not be damaged by being 100% dead in about 6 days.

You do not need a ladder to put on a bungy cord on the awning to keep it from sliding out while traveling due to the wind. Just reach up as high as you can, and put it there.

The tires can stay off the ground, but I like the idea of them sitting on the ground, so what you did should be great. Unless you have solar, the battery will be dead in a couple of days, so don't plan on running your refrigerator while in storage. If you can plug in the trailer, on electric it will consume about 3-5 KW daily, and add about $15 a month to the electric bill where ever it is parked. I would leave my refrigerator off until a couple of days before I needed it.

I would always recommend solar - at least 100W if you can not plug in the RV. This will keep the battery topped off. Only about $150 at this place. SunElec.com I would select a 12 volt nominal panel and a PWM controller around 20 amps and $25 - $45.

Have fun camping!

Fred.
Oaklevel
Explorer
Apr 20, 2015
It does not need to be level in storage unless the refrigerator is on.

I like the old awnings & ordered ours with a manual awning. But I use ratchet cargo tie downs to snug ? (wind protection about $2 each) tie the awning down..... do not use excessive force. I understand on power awnings there is a way to tilt them somewhat. No ladder needed for securing the awning. I bought dog tie outs (cheaper & the same) as the awning cork-screw tie downs.

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New TH Owner..couple questions...

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