ToddD wrote:
laknox wrote:
Without reading ahead...
1. Most mfrs will void any frame warranty if you use a GN adapter. My recommendation, even though I have no direct experience with it, would be an Andersen adapter. It fastens to the ball in your bed, but raises the hitch point almost to the same level as a straight FW hitch point.
Someone else on another forum pointed me to the Andersens. I'm not quite sure I understand the concept. If the trailer is a 5th wheel coupler, then I'd still need to convert it to a gooseneck coupler to use this adapter. And if I do that, why not just covert to something like a Reese which should reach to my bed height ball?
laknox wrote:
3. The grill that came with my Komfort will cook meat...barely. At altitude, you get grey meat that's cooked, but doesn't look real appetizing. My wife simply won't eat meat cooked on it, so we either take a small charcoal grill or "borrow" one of her sibs' grills.
Yeah, pretty much the same with the one that came on my Hybrid. I was mostly curious if they were removable. The one on my hybrid is portable and clips onto a swinging bumper mount.
laknox wrote:
4. If you have =any= plans on boondocking at all, you'll need at least 2 BIG 6v batteries and a generator (or lots of solar) to keep that residential fridge running for more than about 24 hours. If you have zero plans on boondocking, then a residential fridge should work. Caveat is that residential fridges are made to be stationary and there are occasional reports of people having issues with them, especially if they move frequently.
No real plans to boondock, but I do have a couple Honda EU2000 generators should that day happen. We're mostly seasonal on the Upper Chesapeake, hence the desire for a more standard size fridge.
laknox wrote:
6. Depending on where you live and/or camp, having dual A/C is almost a must. Even my low-profile, 25' Komfort barely gets cool with a 13.5k A/C, but most of my camping is done in the mountains of AZ, where it can get downright cool at night, even in July/August. Again, another "must-have" on my next FW.
Planning on that, thanks.
Good pics here of how the Andersen works. My biggest beef with it is that it moves the hitch point =behind= the axle in its "standard" configuration and there's much less adjustment on it than other hitches. I have the B&W Turnover Ball base and Companion FW hitch and I love, and use, both. I have my Companion set as high and as far forward as it will go, which gives me right at 8" bed clearance, which I need, and puts the king pin about 2.75" ahead of the axle. FWIW, I can NOT hit my cab at full lock R or L, when going forward, even with my hitch as far forward as it will go. Not sure that the Andersen gives you much vertical adjustment, which is one reason that I'm not 100% sold on it. Go to Andersen's web site to check out how it fits on the GN ball in your bed. =That= is d@mn simple and easy to do.
I purposely avoided talking about the Reese Goosebox hitch, as only a few mfrs OK using that in lieu of a "standard" pin box. Lippert may say it's OK, but they're not the ones that have to handle warranty claims 99% of the time; it's the mfr that does, and they don't want the hassle.
With the generators, you'd be good to go with a residential fridge, IMO. I'd still get a couple =big= 6v golf cart batteries for those times when you need to be without power for a day, or two.
Lyle