Portable Hitches

Lippert will not warranty any frame damage from any single point hitch other than the Reese Goosebox. Example: Andersen, PullRite, etc.
I went from a PullRite 2600 to a Reese Goosebox and it is a great ride with zero bucking.
Since you don't have a factory gooseneck ball you will need to get one installed. Your choice but, be sure it is rated high enough for any 5th you may get in the future. B&W Turnover ball is popular.
EDIT ADD: Lippert will not warranty any single point (gooseneck ball) but the Reese Goosebox because they own Reese.

schlep1967 wrote:

C.B. wrote:

Dave Pete wrote:

Truck is a 2006 Dodge Heavy 2500 with the Cummins diesel.

Thanks.

Long bed Pullrite Super Fifth.

Short bed Pullrite Super Glide.

For both Pullrite under bed mount gives you a clean bed when hitch is out.

C.B.

Agreed. For your truck there are not that many clean bed options. I had a 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 with the short bed and a Pullrite Superglide. At the end of the year I pulled 8 pins and lifted the hitch out of the bed. It is easiest if you have a hoist as the hitch is not light. If no hoist it may cost you a beer for your helper. Not that heavy for two people.

X3

If you decide to go with a rail mount system, a couple of good choices are a B&W Patriot, that you may find used, or look at e-trailer for best price (free shipping), or the Andersen rail mount.

Jerry

And just to kind of re-state what I'm learning is this...

I'll need both a hitch and a mounting system.

A fold flat ball is a mounting system, that some kinds of fiver hitches can mount to. Or I'd need to replace the trailer pin box with a goose box. In that case a hitch is obtained in the goose box and the mounting system is the hitch too (gooseneck).

But another "clean bed" system is the Pullrite Super5th (for my long bed) which is the mount, and it includes the ISR Super rails with removable pins for quick truck camper conversion use.

In such a case I'd buy a new Super5th series mount and rails system, and either a new or used fifth wheel hitch with the standard ISR rail attachment capability.

Thanks for the excellent info. The truck is a long bed with an extended cab.

On that age truck, I'd just install the rail system, and use plywood between, to keep bed flat for TC.

While adding the turn over ball system would be nice, it would cost twice as much as the rail system with standard hitch.

If your truck already has a ball system for gooseneck attachment, then both Pullrite, and Andersen make a hitch to attach to it, that can easily be removed for TC install.

Jerry

C.B. wrote:

Dave Pete wrote:

Truck is a 2006 Dodge Heavy 2500 with the Cummins diesel.

Thanks.

Long bed Pullrite Super Fifth.

Short bed Pullrite Super Glide.

For both Pullrite under bed mount gives you a clean bed when hitch is out.

C.B.

Agreed. For your truck there are not that many clean bed options. I had a 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 with the short bed and a Pullrite Superglide. At the end of the year I pulled 8 pins and lifted the hitch out of the bed. It is easiest if you have a hoist as the hitch is not light. If no hoist it may cost you a beer for your helper. Not that heavy for two people.

Dave Pete wrote:

Truck is a 2006 Dodge Heavy 2500 with the Cummins diesel.

Thanks.

Long bed Pullrite Super Fifth.

Short bed Pullrite Super Glide.

For both Pullrite under bed mount gives you a clean bed when hitch is out.

C.B.

ReneeG wrote:
If you are purchasing a new FW, most will not warranty using a gooseneck style hitch. Why? I don't know.

Simple physics.

Most 5ers are designed based on the assumption the hitch connection will be 12-18 inches above the truck bed.

By dropping the connection point by 12-18 inches, it creates a longer lever arm which puts significantly more stress on the trailer frame.

It's possible to design for the extra stress (at an extra cost) but since it's not standard, they may or may not...You might do it anyway and get away with it but they don't want to mess about with warranty for something they didn't recommend you doing.

Check the payload numbers on the hitch. At the upper end (13k trailer), you can be around 2600-3250lb hitch weight. That may put you over payload on a 3/4 ton truck (diesel probably has plenty of grunt to make it move forward). Don't forget to add passengers and other gear that's in the truck when calculating payload.

There are under bed mounts that leave the bed flat or if you have the older rail system, you can cut plywood panels to provide a level surface with the rails. Either will allow a truck camper to be used.

Removing the hitch:
- If you have a garage, a simply pulley attached to the ceiling makes easy work of lifting the hitch. Then drop it on a cart to roll it where you want it.
- Another easy solution is to pull the pins holding the hitch to the truck bed and when you lift the front of the trailer, it will take the hitch with it. Make sure the hitch is locked, so someone doesn't accidentally release it and it falls but otherwise, makes a nice way to store (yes, the trailer frame is plenty strong enough to hold the weight).

Based on your needs, I would have a B&W turnover ball system installed on your truck. This would allow easy removal of a bed mounted Gooseneck ball. There are a number of fifth wheel hitches that will mount utilizing the ball. Examples are, B&W Companion, Andersen Ultimate, and the Goose Box which is a pin box that mounts on the trailer.

On a 2006 truck, your other option is to install universal rails which might interfere with your camper usage. Virtually any hitch will work with the weight range you cited. Every hitch has its pros and cons, such as weight, cost, mounting method, hook up method, short bed adaptability, and towing comfort.