Pull Test ?
I have read in a couple of different posts about brakes not setting imediately when you use the manual slide, one person even said their brakes did not set until rolling about eight inches. I am curio...
Forum Discussion
rhagfo wrote:Shadow_Grey wrote:fj12ryder wrote:
If I did a pull test, which I don't, I would do it just after I hitched up, while the chocks were still in place. This would take the brakes out of the equation, and the legs would still be down to catch the 5er if it came loose.
Same here...mine has a green flag that indicates the hitch is in place. Ensure handle is in correct locked location and install locking pin...done.
Happy Camping...larry barnhart wrote:
I will always do a pull test with the landing gear above the ground a couple of inches. My friend had his hitch break. No product cannot break so good to be safe, kinda like buying insurance don't need it until ya need it and then ya have it. Just sayin.
chevman
My theory is Trust, but Verify. Much like the measure twice cut once thought.
Blind trust will one day bite you!
My Reese will not open from the force of the pin pulling on the jaws, even if the handle isn't locked, in fact the force of the pin pulling forces the jaws shut.
I still do a pull test, as I do it before I leave the cab after hitching, takes less than 10 seconds!
I too have a reese and what has been mentioned by the B & W boys is no different then my reese, I maneuver the handle in the open position , back in with the two mated , no gap, the handle slams shut , I lock the handle, hook the breakaway cable, and I am hooked ,no high pin , jaw is shut ,the handle is locked, do I need a pull test ,no, do I do it, yes . Blind trust as you say will bite one day, and thinking you have a fool proof hitch is a good way to find out especially with a hitch that CAN BE locked in the OPEN position such as the B & W . NEVER lock it, no problem, keep it locked out as one did, and find out the hard way, and it will happen again with ANY hitch.
