In another thread there was a lot of talk about pull tests. In 1997 we got our first 5th wheel and a Hijacker 16k Ultra sliding bar hitch. We never did pull tests. The hitch in 2001 moved two a second RAM truck, and 2004 we upgraded to a larger 5th wheel. If the handle and sliding bar that the handle was directly attached to slide in then it was correctly hitched. We ran with a padlock in place of the lock pin 99 percent of the time.In September we got a 2015 RAM and decided on a manual slider from B&W(RVK3270).The B&W lock handle is connected to a dual cam that is between the front extensions of the king pin jaws. So if the handle is in the locked position, pinned or not the jaws will not open when backing into the hitch, as the dual cams are at a right angle to the jaw extensions.To couple up the handle has to be swung forward. When you back into in correctly the king pin slides in between the jaws and then pushs them closed and the spring loaded handle swings to the lock position with the dual cam ends pointing left and right blocking the jaws from openning again. At this point one pins or padlocks the arm in the locked position.So following these steps and installing the padlock, I feel the same as I did with the Hijacker, in that there is no reason to do a pull test.However if a person feels comfortable doing a pull test, then by all means go ahead and complete that step.Chris

I agree Chris, with some hitches it is obvious when hitched and locked. My first hitch was a slide bar, with rotating handle that would not reopen against a spring load. It also locked. I never heard of a pull test back then, but it was a good policy to look closely to see the bar behind the proper portion of the pin.Now with a dual jaw wrapped around the pin, same setup as yours, it made me wonder if somehow those jaws could spread and open on their own. New truck, new hitch, I did pull test as per owners manual, first time. I later looked the hitch over carefully, while moving the arm. I could then see, there is no way jaws can open with the arm closed and pinned, without destroying the hitch head. I still look closely when hitching, and look once more before getting in truck to pull out, but no pull test.This is just my experience, and I won't tell anyone not to do a pull test, especially a new FW owner. You have to do what makes you comfortable, newbie, or pro!Jerry

Me Again wrote:However if a person feels comfortable doing a pull test, then by all means go ahead and complete that step.Why would anyone feel uncomfortable doing a pull test?

I did not include an un!!!So what is your point? Do you want me to add "more" comfortable?Chris

Different point of view!Once the pin enters the jaws of our Reese twin jaw, and the jaws shut the pin isn't going anywhere! I know I have towed 20 miles with the handle unlocked! Pull test told me it was hitched. It was not intentional to tow that way, it had started to rain, and I just overlooked it. Yes, still do a pull test, and two visual checks.

Me Again wrote:I feel the same as I did with the Hijacker, in that there is no reason to do a pull test.ChrisI would tend to agree using a Hijacker bar type hitch. We still use a Hijacker. It has been a reliable hitch and easy to use. A quick visual can confirm any possible issue.

Pull tests | Good Sam Community

56 Replies

rkassl
Explorer
Mar 25, 2016
We have been 5th wheeling for 12 years with one of the best hitches on the market, Pullrite. This hitch features positive pin locking, do I still do a "pull test", hell yes! Just my opinion.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Mar 25, 2016
Thanks for the reply. Every hitch has its own quirks.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Mar 25, 2016
SabreCanuck wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
SabreCanuck wrote:
Sorry, I'm an old trucker. Tug test every time. :)

Do you slam into your hitch and immediately pull forward for your pull test like you did when trucking?

well not speaking for SabreCanuck, but yes I do!

I back in and jaws shut, shift to 1st and do let the clutch out enough to put a strong pull on the pin.
I have once forgot to return the handle to the jaws closed/unlocked position, backed in, placed in 1st, and pulled right out!

With wheels fully chocked, there is enough play in the landing gear to absorb the slight movement of the 5er. If I were high hitched it would pull out much easier without the full weight on the pin.
If you are High Hitched and all the pin weight is on the pin, it will be very hard to pull out from under.

#1 - I don't necessarily SLAM the hitch in. Never did. I do reverse until it latches then give it a TUG. Can't say as I have never 'SLAMMED' the hitch but when I do, I advise myself that it was a rookie mistake :)

#2 - I also check to ensure that the trailer is going to hit mid-ramp on the fifth wheel so to be honest, ALL of the weight is not on the legs as I have already lifted the front of the 5th wheel an inch or so simply by hooking up. To me, that's why it's called a RAMP.

#3 - Ensuring that the trailer starts low on the 5th wheel ramp "almost" avoids the possibility of 'high hitch' as the 5th wheel plate literally has to flip flat as it lifts the trailer to hitch. But after the tug test, I still do a visual check because never say never. Always have, even when trucking.

Everybody has their own way of doing it, this is mine. To each their own.

That is the best reply so far!
justme
Explorer
Mar 25, 2016
In my wonderings I have seen some truck beds damaged because the trailer uncoupled. So why not do a pull test to assure you did not forget something or did something wrong? After we do get forgetful at times :-)
SabreCanuck
Explorer
Mar 25, 2016
rhagfo wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
SabreCanuck wrote:
Sorry, I'm an old trucker. Tug test every time. :)

Do you slam into your hitch and immediately pull forward for your pull test like you did when trucking?

well not speaking for SabreCanuck, but yes I do!

I back in and jaws shut, shift to 1st and do let the clutch out enough to put a strong pull on the pin.
I have once forgot to return the handle to the jaws closed/unlocked position, backed in, placed in 1st, and pulled right out!

With wheels fully chocked, there is enough play in the landing gear to absorb the slight movement of the 5er. If I were high hitched it would pull out much easier without the full weight on the pin.
If you are High Hitched and all the pin weight is on the pin, it will be very hard to pull out from under.

#1 - I don't necessarily SLAM the hitch in. Never did. I do reverse until it latches then give it a TUG. Can't say as I have never 'SLAMMED' the hitch but when I do, I advise myself that it was a rookie mistake :)

#2 - I also check to ensure that the trailer is going to hit mid-ramp on the fifth wheel so to be honest, ALL of the weight is not on the legs as I have already lifted the front of the 5th wheel an inch or so simply by hooking up. To me, that's why it's called a RAMP.

#3 - Ensuring that the trailer starts low on the 5th wheel ramp "almost" avoids the possibility of 'high hitch' as the 5th wheel plate literally has to flip flat as it lifts the trailer to hitch. But after the tug test, I still do a visual check because never say never. Always have, even when trucking.

Everybody has their own way of doing it, this is mine. To each their own.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Mar 25, 2016
Cummins12V98 wrote:
SabreCanuck wrote:
Sorry, I'm an old trucker. Tug test every time. :)

Do you slam into your hitch and immediately pull forward for your pull test like you did when trucking?

well not speaking for SabreCanuck, but yes I do!

I back in and jaws shut, shift to 1st and do let the clutch out enough to put a strong pull on the pin.
I have once forgot to return the handle to the jaws closed/unlocked position, backed in, placed in 1st, and pulled right out!

With wheels fully chocked, there is enough play in the landing gear to absorb the slight movement of the 5er. If I were high hitched it would pull out much easier without the full weight on the pin.
If you are High Hitched and all the pin weight is on the pin, it will be very hard to pull out from under.
SabreCanuck
Explorer
Mar 25, 2016
dieseltruckdriver wrote:

What most call a pull test is actually a brake test, and there is sure nothing wrong with that. I do that every time I am leaving before I get to the highway to make sure they work properly.

LOL.. Me too!
dieseltruckdriv
Explorer II
Mar 25, 2016
SabreCanuck wrote:

Never hauled hazardous materials so never did stop at RR crossings when trucking.

BUT - When pulling trailer, I do admit to putting flashers on and slowing down to 40 mph for a lot of the RR crossings. Especially the ones that are at a 45 degree to the highway and rough as **explative**. So Yeah, I do generally slow down for RR crossings, traffic permitting (example: I'm not slowing to 20 mph on an interstate with busy traffic behind me).

There are a lot of things that I learned over the road that I continue to practice and observe today. Like being able to tell when the person in the car ahead of me is going to change lanes even before they indicate said change with blinker (or not). Generally, they will slow slightly and you can see their head turning to view the lane. DW has often wondered how I know these things. :)

Trust those Truckers, they know more than most on the road :)

Of course I agree! I did haul hazmat for 17 years.

My problem with doing the pull test is most do not realize how hard you have to pull to actually pull out from under your trailer. If you think I am wrong, hitch up, raise your landing gear so it is just loose on the ground, not actually lifted, and then unhook your hitch and pull out. If you haven't ever done it, you will be surprised at how much throttle it takes to do a proper pull test.

And for the record, yes I have done it, both professionally and with our 5er.

What most call a pull test is actually a brake test, and there is sure nothing wrong with that. I do that every time I am leaving before I get to the highway to make sure they work properly.
SabreCanuck
Explorer
Mar 25, 2016
MFL wrote:
SabreCanuck wrote:
Sorry, I'm an old trucker. Tug test every time. :)

There is certainly nothing wrong about doing a tug test with an RV. Besides the tractor hitch being harder to do a visual test, and know for certain you are hitched, some FW hitches can be harder to know for certain, you are good to go, just by looking.

The big thing, is to have a routine, and stick with it, such as you are doing. Some truckers, depending on load carried, stopped at all RR crossings. I'm guessing after many years of doing that, it would make one think about doing so, when towing a FW. :)

Jerry

Never hauled hazardous materials so never did stop at RR crossings when trucking.

BUT - When pulling trailer, I do admit to putting flashers on and slowing down to 40 mph for a lot of the RR crossings. Especially the ones that are at a 45 degree to the highway and rough as **explative**. So Yeah, I do generally slow down for RR crossings, traffic permitting (example: I'm not slowing to 20 mph on an interstate with busy traffic behind me).

There are a lot of things that I learned over the road that I continue to practice and observe today. Like being able to tell when the person in the car ahead of me is going to change lanes even before they indicate said change with blinker (or not). Generally, they will slow slightly and you can see their head turning to view the lane. DW has often wondered how I know these things. :)

Trust those Truckers, they know more than most on the road :)
SabreCanuck
Explorer
Mar 25, 2016
rhagfo wrote:

One will tend to have the pin box higher, so as not to hit the bar and attaching parts, so the likelihood of a high hitch is greater.

I do believe the proper operating manner of that 'hitch catcher' is to REMOVE the bar while hitching and then insert the bar AFTER hitching... The actual bar itself would not be in the way of hitching as it would be laying on the truck bed at the time.

It would be my opinion that the brackets should never be in the way either as they are installed at the end of the ramps and if you are going to hit those when connecting then the trailer is so low that it would be virtually impossible to 'HIGH' hitch.

The above may be why some are challenging your 'high hitch' comments.