Pull Test ?

fj12ryder wrote:
If I did a pull test, which I don't, I would do it just after I hitched up, while the chocks were still in place. This would take the brakes out of the equation, and the legs would still be down to catch the 5er if it came loose.

Same here...mine has a green flag that indicates the hitch is in place. Ensure handle is in correct locked location and install locking pin...done.

Happy Camping...

:)

There is absolutely no reason to do a pull test if you have a B&W hitch and no reason for a bed saver. I am sure there many who think I am crazy and that is fine. Until you have used a B&W keep doing your pull test.

If you are going to go thru all the trouble making sure your landing gear is off the ground or your Roto Chocks are in place or what ever else you do then the simple fool proof method with a B&W would be much less messing around.

Have your handle open back up to your kingpin adjust height if needed then back up until you feel it engage, get out LOCK the handle closed with the break away cable attached to the lock. If the kingpin and hitch plates ate touching and the 1 1/8" thick silver jaws are closed around the kingpin THERE IS NO WAY YOU ARE NOT HITCHED!!!!!!!!!

Now raise your landing gear and have a safe trip!

fj12ryder we are on the same page.

If I did a pull test, which I don't, I would do it just after I hitched up, while the chocks were still in place. This would take the brakes out of the equation, and the legs would still be down to catch the 5er if it came loose.

Yes, It takes a few inchesb for my brakes to actuate. So, I make sure I pull farther than that. What usually happens is my trailer wheels skid a furough for about a foot.

The important thing is to watch the trailer and see if it moves the same few inches, when the TV moves the first few inches. If both are moving, you're probably hitched. If the TV moves and the trailer doesn't, you're not hitched.

We have done a pull test for years and yes we move a few inches before it stops the truck. Why worry about a few inches?? Tells you the brakes are working. Either way just do it.
chevman

TomHaycraft wrote:
For my pull test? I leave the chocks in place.

As to the brakes, I'm sure others will chime in with better mechanical descriptions and terminology, but in short, most trailer brakes rely on an electromagnetic system with the magnet "sticking" to the drum, with forward motion, the magnet shifts and displaces the brake shoes. So yes, it takes some forward motion, the more poorly adjusted the brakes, the more motion necessary to engage the brake shoes against the drum.

Electric over hydraulic on the other hand, use more immediate hydraulic pressure to engage the brakes.

Hope it helps!

X2 to this, especially leaving the chocks in place!!

This allows me to do my "Pull Test" as soon as the pin hits the head of the hitch. With the chocks still in place, and as a backup the Trailer brakes manually activated, and the Landing gear still supporting most of the pin weight, (I always hitch pin low) I put the tranny in 1st and do two solid tugs. Then I put the tranny back in neutral set the parking brake and get out lock the hitch, and remove and store the chocks (good old fashion yellow block kind). Yes, I know this puts the landing gear at some risk, but I haven't slid a chock yet. I feel that without the full friction of about 2,200# on the pin if something is wrong, it will come apart with less weight on it.

One more advantage of disk brakes - no wheel rotation required.

Most important is to actually do a pull test...