Question on brake adjustment

Beaker wrote:
Now if someone knows which way to tighten or loosen would be nice.

Try this:
Down and out
Up and in

The down and up direction is the direction the opposite end of the adjusting tool is going

As others with drum brakes I was taught to tighten until they wont spin by hand. I also actuate the brakes to be sure the shoes are centered and free to move as they are tightened. Then back off til there is only slight drag.

It was not uncommon for the brake shoes to not remain centered while adjusting.

Beaker wrote:

Now if someone knows which way to tighten or loosen would be nice.

If I haven't had the drum off, I usually take a flashlight and look through the hole at the adjuster thread. Based on that I can determine which way to turn. Sometimes. If there is any thread exposed.

Most often, tighten is downward with the wrench, which is upward on the starwheel. Not always.

Beaker wrote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

riggsp wrote:

I was taught to adjust drum brakes until the wheel won't spin (this centers both shoes in the drum)then back off a few clicks until it just slightly drags...back off all of them the same number of clicks...never had any problems doing it that way.


Bingo! You get the award for first correct answer.

Now if someone knows which way to tighten or loosen would be nice.

You just need to hold your tongue the right way!

Beaker wrote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

riggsp wrote:

I was taught to adjust drum brakes until the wheel won't spin (this centers both shoes in the drum)then back off a few clicks until it just slightly drags...back off all of them the same number of clicks...never had any problems doing it that way.


Bingo! You get the award for first correct answer.

Now if someone knows which way to tighten or loosen would be nice.

:B
Good one, I had to write it down and put it in the tool box for reference. And it's way the heck out back now so I don't know, but a few turns will tell you.
Thanks for all the responses guys, I must be setting them to tight as a subliminal message to wear them out faster and thus the disk brake upgrade. Darn Jacobs brake, I'm still over 50% on the linings of the RV with 30K miles. At this rate I'll need a new RV before the brakes need replacing.
Thanks again

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

riggsp wrote:

I was taught to adjust drum brakes until the wheel won't spin (this centers both shoes in the drum)then back off a few clicks until it just slightly drags...back off all of them the same number of clicks...never had any problems doing it that way.


Bingo! You get the award for first correct answer.

Now if someone knows which way to tighten or loosen would be nice.

riggsp wrote:
I was taught to adjust drum brakes until the wheel won't spin (this centers both shoes in the drum)then back off a few clicks until it just slightly drags...back off all of them the same number of clicks...never had any problems doing it that way.

Bingo! You get the award for first correct answer.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

mapguy wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Respected RV guy we have known for a long tome said tighten the star wheel until it stops then back off 3 clicks. That's it!

Adjust till it won't spin, back off until it rotates 3/4 to 1 turn under a moderate spin. IT will make a distinct scrapping sound when properly adjusted. Usually this is 3 or 4 clicks out from "no spin".

This is different(tighter) than normal hydraulic drum brakes because electric trailer brakes use magnet pull plus inertia to expand the brake shoes.

To loose makes your brakes slow to engage and brake controller needs extra boost to help make up for the extra shoe travel.

What I said is for electric brakes.

I understood that. Many don't understand that electric trailer brakes energize in a totally different manner than hydraulic brakes found on cars/trucks -thus the need for tighter adjustment standards.

mapguy wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Respected RV guy we have known for a long tome said tighten the star wheel until it stops then back off 3 clicks. That's it!

Adjust till it won't spin, back off until it rotates 3/4 to 1 turn under a moderate spin. IT will make a distinct scrapping sound when properly adjusted. Usually this is 3 or 4 clicks out from "no spin".

This is different(tighter) than normal hydraulic drum brakes because electric trailer brakes use magnet pull plus inertia to expand the brake shoes.

To loose makes your brakes slow to engage and brake controller needs extra boost to help make up for the extra shoe travel.

What I said is for electric brakes.

From Dexter:
Brake Adjustment
Brakes should be adjusted (1) after the first 200 miles of operation
when the brake shoes and drums have “seated,” (2) at 3000 mile
intervals, (3) or as use and performance requires. The brakes
should be adjusted in the following manner:
1. Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity jack
stands. Follow trailer manufacturers recommendations for
lifting and supporting the unit. Check that the wheel and
drum rotate freely.
! CAUTION:
Do not lift or support trailer on any part of the axle or the
suspension system.
2. Remove the adjusting hole cover from the adjusting slot on
the bottom of the brake backing plate.
3. With a screwdriver or standard adjusting tool, rotate the
starwheel of the adjuster assembly to expand the brake
shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the pressure of the
linings against the drum makes the wheel very difficult to
turn.
Braking Systems - Electric
-13 - .6-8K SM
Note: With drop spindle axles, a modified adjusting tool with
about an 80 degree angle should be used.
4. Then rotate the starwheel in the opposite direction until the
wheel turns freely with a slight lining drag.
5. Replace the adjusting hole cover and lower the wheel to the
ground.
6. Repeat the above procedure on all brakes.