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jake122288's avatar
jake122288
Explorer
Oct 03, 2013

questions for full timing in my new 5th wheel...

Well as the subject suggests im going to be "full timing" in my 5th wheel. Its nothing fancy. its a 2001 fleetwood mallard 275b. It is currently parked inside of a enclosed pole barn and this is where it will stay. (some but poor insulation and no heating for the building with full electrical hook up)

I just have a questions for full timing it. My first question is about the lp system. I currently have 2 30# lp tanks. I would like to switch that to a pair or 100# tanks. I keep finding posts in regards to a "extend-a-stay" but everything i see is for motor homes with "mounted lp tanks"

I do want to change my regulator to a auto switching one as well. Can i just change my regulator and then replace the hoses that go from the tanks to regulator with longer ones that can reach my 100# tanks? Would these hoses have to be hi or low pressure hoses?

Is there anything to do special in regards to changing the regulator? What should the pressure be for the regulator?

My next question is in regards to venting the furnace.

The building its in is a 32' x 16' with 16' ceiling (20' at the peak) The building has 4 roof vents. Do i need to be concerned about venting the furnace outside the building or with that space will it be safe to just leave as it is?

And my final questions are regarding fresh water. Beings the 5th wheel is inside how much do i have to worry about my tanks and line freezing? I will be putting up skirting shortly as well. is there anything i can do to further prevent my lines/tanks from freezing. Water isnt a huge concern as we can use the house as well for laundry, dishes, showers and such.

Sorry this is so long and probably hard to follow. Im just losing my mind trying to get everything done as winter will be approaching fast.


Any other tips are greatly appreciated. =)

16 Replies

  • I have a 36 by 70 shed (metal building similar ceiling height as yours) which I occasionally run my furnace in my 5th wheel in. All though I do not sleep overnight in it. I have wondered the same question all though I find it hard to believe with the camper closed and a shed of my size it could be a issue. I do keep two CO detectors in my rig at all time and make sure batteries are in good order. I hope somebody with some good knowledge on the subject chimes in. As far as water i would just fill the water tank when needed. Much easier than running a hose with a heater and all that jazz as you would probably have to run a long distance from your source. As far as propane goes you could have the farmers coop drop of a 200 or 500 gallon tank and run that to your rig. No hauling bottles at all. As far as your tanks freezing are they heated, are you going to pull your 5th wheel to dump or transfer the grey and black water some other way. If your going to skirt in the building it should be pretty easy to keep the heat above freezing below the camper and you should not have any problem. If the rig was going to be in the building without moving all winter I would consider going with electric heat. Protected from the wind you would be surprised at how well electric would do. Just my .02 cents
  • loulou57 wrote:
    I was going to say the same...venting would be my concern. A family we know lived in their 5Wheel, parked in a heated driving shed for the winter, while the farm house was being renovated. The driving shed had infloor heating as well as a wood stove. They installed a chicken barn fan in one of the windows of the shed for added protection.


    Sounds like venting it is. Could I just run some ducting from the exhaust vent out the wall? Or should I look more at venting the whole building better
  • I was going to say the same...venting would be my concern. A family we know lived in their 5Wheel, parked in a heated driving shed for the winter, while the farm house was being renovated. The driving shed had infloor heating as well as a wood stove. They installed a chicken barn fan in one of the windows of the shed for added protection.
  • I think the LP tanks are the simple part.

    I personally, would be very concerned about the venting of the enclosed building while living in the FW.

    Carbon Monoxide or CO is very dangerous and while you could install monitors in the building and inside the FW, to verify proper venting, I would not be comfortable in just relying on those items.

    I would look into powered vents and calculate a proper air exchange to keep all gases (don't forget about your waste vents) pushed out of the space.

    Watch for corrosion anywhere the CO can mix with condensation as well. Water and CO creates an acidic condition and can damage steel near the furnace exhaust.

    I remember years ago Popular Mechanics published plans for an RV Port which actually had flex hoses that set on top of the RV roof vents and connected with the building vents. I don't remember if it addressed the Carbon Monoxide issue though.

    There may be other jurisdictional laws, ordinances etc. depending on your location to look into as well.

    Good luck,
  • jrwhited wrote:
    you will need high pressure hoses.your lp supplier s should help you in your conversion.check with a farm supply store for a heated water hose that won't freeze.


    I do not have a way to connect directly to pressurized water so if I do manage to keep water at the trailer I will have to rely on filling my tank and using the pump. Will I news a heated hose for the time I would need a hose just to fill my tank or would the water freeze too quick?
  • you will need high pressure hoses.your lp supplier s should help you in your conversion.check with a farm supply store for a heated water hose that won't freeze.