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slarsen's avatar
slarsen
Explorer
Aug 08, 2016

Refrigerator Question/Discussion

My refrigerator in my 2010 Mountaineer has always been a pain: alternately freezing or randomly going into the 60's. I've tried many fixes, none have worked. But my freezer works just fine. Anyway . . .

I recently put a "dorm room" sized refrigerator in my trailer, run while traveling with a battery and an 800 watt voltage inverter. I used it once so far on a 2-1/2 hour trip and it worked great! But what about longer trips?

According to my calculations, I can reasonably use this for about 5-7 hours before risking depleting the battery excessively. So I'm wondering if I couldn't tap into the 12V circuit and use the truck's power to keep the battery topped off while traveling all day.

The refrigerator draws about 11-12 amps at 12V, but of course not all the time, when the refrigerator is idle it draws very little current. The location of the battery when traveling is right by the breaker box, close to the door, where 12V should be readily available. I could add a cigarette lighter 12V receptacle for convenience. That should be a reasonable power draw on the charging circuit when driving, shouldn't it? Has anyone else done this?

15 Replies

  • Yes, a separate dedicated battery.

    Why? Because wire size and length seems to be so important at 12V DC. And I don't want to run down the battery that handles the brakes, the leveling equipment and slide outs. Just wanting to be safe and responsible.

    Connect it together: that's what I am asking about, what with the battery right alongside the breaker box. There are heavy-duty 12V cables running from the built-in converter, which I assume are mostly for charging the battery in the front of the trailer. So if I connect to those, I'm thinking I have a pretty good connection forward to the front battery and the truck charging system, and to the converter for when connected to 120V at a campground.

    Or are those heavy 12V cables for something else?
  • slarsen wrote:
    I just looked up in the owners manual, the trailer tow battery charge circuit is fused at 25 AMPS. That seems like sufficient power, if the voltage doesn't drop too much all the way back to the breaker box.

    When I'm plugged into 120V at a campground, I should be able to top off the battery overnight. I think. If the regular battery doesn't interfere with charging my refrigerator battery. Or vice-versa. This 12V to 120V ends up being surprisingly complicated.

    Guess when I travel, I'd better take along a 120V battery charger, just in case?


    Maybe I misunderstood. It now sounds like you have a separate battery that you dedicate just to the little fridge? Why not connect it all together and let it charge together?

    My truck does a good job of charging the battery bank while on the road. I can't speak for others though.
  • I just looked up in the owners manual, the trailer tow battery charge circuit is fused at 25 AMPS. That seems like sufficient power, if the voltage doesn't drop too much all the way back to the breaker box.

    When I'm plugged into 120V at a campground, I should be able to top off the battery overnight. I think. If the regular battery doesn't interfere with charging my refrigerator battery. Or vice-versa. This 12V to 120V ends up being surprisingly complicated.

    Guess when I travel, I'd better take along a 120V battery charger, just in case?
  • The truck charge lines and current flow are too little to provide a significant battery charge potential for most towed RV's. They do a decent job of maintaining the batteries though. There are many posts about enlarging the wiring to compensate. But perhaps the better alternative is to move to multiple 6V golf cart style batteries, and keep them properly charged/maintained.
  • Your truck should already be feeding the 12V circuit when driving. I see you have a Ford, so it isolates the coach from the truck when the engine is off, but should charge the coach when running.