RV Crushes Truck

Cummins12V98 wrote:
That hitch should only be used as a Boat Anchor.

Too bulky for my inflatable one man pontoon boat I use for fly fishing . Would need a bigger boat :B

garyp4951 wrote:
If I had that hitch, I would sell it for scrap metal, and get a Reese that locks when backing in, or a B&W Companion.

Thats what my 18K Reese does ,it locks in place when backing in. I read the owners manual on it again, it does not have a caution or anything I could see about the locking pin. I certainly don't want to find out what happens if the pin is left out, but have a feeling like the B&W its locked, and its not coming open until I pull the handle to open.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
That hitch should only
be used as a Boat Anchor.

Lol...I actually did spend the time to watch that first video ONCE, and I thought of your red truck pic, at first sight of that hitch, before you posted the red truck/hitch again.

Many hitch manufacturers make an elcheapo, for the dealer to throw in on the deal. My first hitch was a clunker from new, but a safe one.

Jerry

That hitch should only be used as a Boat Anchor.

If I had that hitch, I would sell it for scrap metal, and get a Reese that locks when backing in, or a B&W Companion.

bpounds wrote:

cummins2014 wrote:


How do you define complicated, it appears the handle needs to be in the locked position , and pinned . Not sure the complication . I have the top of the line Reese ,same thing ,make sure the handle is in the locked position ,and pinned. I was under the impression thats pretty much how all hitches work, if not bad bad things CAN happen .

Fair point. You do have to rotate the handle, which sort of ***** it I guess, so it will snap shut. That's an extra step. Then there is the indicator that is supposed to tell you it is locked, but obviously does not prove anything. Pulling a pin to remove the handle extension, then using that pin to lock the release handle. I also noticed that even when operated correctly, there was very little travel between locked and released - no mechanical advantage it seemed. And what was the using a stick to snap the jaw shut all about?

Is all that more complicated? Each can judge that for themselves, but it was obviously too complicated for that gentleman, and he supposedly has used another fifth wheel hitch "hundreds" of times.

Did you notice how much fore-aft slop there was when correctly hitched up. It was shown in this last installment. I hope they get themselves a nice Reese to replace that. I never did hear them say what hitch they had before trading, and I could not make it out in the first video when they were swapping. Looked like a Reese, but not for sure about that.

on edit: I guess we can't say "co_cks" here LOL

If you noticed ,there was a locking pin provided ,but it was broke, so he used the handle pin , thats the way I saw it. Just guessing here that handle removal is something you can do to prevent someone from messing with the handle ??

I could be wrong here, but like my Reese handle you pull it out , and move it slightly rearward, and it looks open, and when backed in ,it slams shut, and you pin it . With his hitch it appeared he pulls it out ,and rotates slightly to lock open, and slams shut when backed into ?? Will have to watch it again . Maybe like you say he has to manually close the handle ?

On edit: Yes, he has to lock the handle manually , and then pin it with the pin from the handle, not sure why that is, but overall watching him hitch up ,he pulls the handle out to lock it open , and backs in , turns the handle , and it goes in ,and locks ,and then he pulls the pin on the handle ,and locks it with the pin. If I had that hitch I would have a separate pin ,and leave the handle on .

My main point about it being overly complicated, was simply this - there are NO BAD HITCHES out there. Contrary to what some folks here have convinced themselves of. There are some that are simpler, and therefore harder to screw up when using them. But in the end it is always user error.

cummins2014 wrote:


How do you define complicated, it appears the handle needs to be in the locked position , and pinned . Not sure the complication . I have the top of the line Reese ,same thing ,make sure the handle is in the locked position ,and pinned. I was under the impression thats pretty much how all hitches work, if not bad bad things CAN happen .

Fair point. You do have to rotate the handle, which sort of ***** it I guess, so it will snap shut. That's an extra step. Then there is the indicator that is supposed to tell you it is locked, but obviously does not prove anything. Pulling a pin to remove the handle extension, then using that pin to lock the release handle. I also noticed that even when operated correctly, there was very little travel between locked and released - no mechanical advantage it seemed. And what was the using a stick to snap the jaw shut all about?

Is all that more complicated? Each can judge that for themselves, but it was obviously too complicated for that gentleman, and he supposedly has used another fifth wheel hitch "hundreds" of times.

Did you notice how much fore-aft slop there was when correctly hitched up. It was shown in this last installment. I hope they get themselves a nice Reese to replace that. I never did hear them say what hitch they had before trading, and I could not make it out in the first video when they were swapping. Looked like a Reese, but not for sure about that.

on edit: I guess we can't say "co_cks" here LOL

bpounds wrote:
A high-pin is a physical position, not a procedure. Simply means the recess in the pin is too high for the jaws to engage it. I suspect a pin on top of the jaws is less common that what we had here, where the pin was just slightly too high.

Anyway, I also appreciated this last installment of the video, and I'm happy to see that they got a good handle on what they did wrong. And also give them props for not blaming the hitch, but accepting responsibility for their mistake. Basically it is 99.9% never the fault of the hitch, regardless of what brand or design. My opinion is that particular hitch is more complicated than it should be.

How do you define complicated, it appears the handle needs to be in the locked position , and pinned . Not sure the complication . I have the top of the line Reese ,same thing ,make sure the handle is in the locked position ,and pinned. I was under the impression thats pretty much how all hitches work, if not bad bad things CAN happen .

A high-pin is a physical position, not a procedure. Simply means the recess in the pin is too high for the jaws to engage it. I suspect a pin on top of the jaws is less common that what we had here, where the pin was just slightly too high.

Anyway, I also appreciated this last installment of the video, and I'm happy to see that they got a good handle on what they did wrong. And also give them props for not blaming the hitch, but accepting responsibility for their mistake. Basically it is 99.9% never the fault of the hitch, regardless of what brand or design. My opinion is that particular hitch is more complicated than it should be.