rv garage

Would love to see a picture if possible. Congrats on the new building.

Thanks all
Well the house is almost done as is the rv shed.
Wow it is tall. We only had to sheetrock the wall that was connected to the house, the rest is osb
Primed and painted. Will take more than 1 coat.

gdavidg wrote:


...LP (louisiana pacific) has an OSB panel that is fire rated called Flame Block. ...

One think to keep in mind is listed proprietary products are very specific regarding their installation. Not saying this one is good or bad...just saying the devil is in the details. Hate for someone to specifying a product then get into the field and then realize what's actually involved to achieve what they need.

I would check with the building department and see if the wall is required to be fire rated. If it is a separate structure from the house it likely does not need to be FR. But a check to them will settle the issue. Or perhaps your contractor knows.Sent 40 years as a structural engineer doing building structures. One of our engineers went into sales for LP and he showed our company their new product.

LP (louisiana pacific) has an OSB panel that is fire rated called Flame Block.

if it has to be fire rated you could go with Flame Block, sheet rock by itself, or OSB over sheet rock.

If not required to be FR I would go with OSB or plywood painted a bright white.

Good luck with your project. I am envious of all who can store their RV at home.


http://lpcorp.com/products/panels/lp-flameblock-fire-rated-osb-sheathing/

Here is what i learned the hard way on lighting. Don't get in a hurry and move all the stuff back into its place after dry walling or putting up OSB.

I did and have never gotten around to yanking all the stuff back out and getting some paint on the OSB.

kinda like a cave in there.

Lots of votes for OSB. Just my opinion but when I built my wood shop in 2004, I went with drywall.its dirty now but its been up there a few years now and holding well. I didnt tape anything or paint anything I could make notes on it while talking with customers on the phone. My neighbor had a wood shop and he used OSB but his shop was an old pole building. It looked good but I liked the finished look of the drywall. I dont like to drive nails into walls and prefer shelving that I can screw right to the studs. I use whats called TUFF TRACK and can be bought at big box stores and is easy to install and its adjustable with out putting a lot of holes in the structure. Had I built a pole barn I may have went with the OSB and the possibility of covering it with drywall later! I like the dry wall but its whatever is best for your eyes and as long as it shelters the RV as planned.

Figured I reply because I saw a few incorrect terms usage of terms.

Firewall: You generally will never see a firewall in single/two family dwellings (SFR). The intent of a firewall from a fire/life-safety perspective is to be able to treat the two buildings as separate buildings. (i.e. overly simplistic version...one side burns down and the other remains) So be carful if you are talking to a contractor because if you ask for a firewall and the contractor wants to take advantage of the situation...you will get a safer structure and a substantially lighter wallet.

Fire Retardant and Fire Resistant/Resistive/Protective are not the same. Fire Retardant generally means it's just treated to slow the rate in which it burns. Fire Resistant means it prevents the passage of heat and flame.

Also, the need for fire resistance is determined by a number of things but in SFR generally you are concerned with protecting the occupants from a fire in higher risk non-living spaces (i.e. garage) and protecting you from your neighbors and your neighbors from you. Thus, in an attached garage situation you will see gypsum board, along with a solid (or rated) self closing door between the garage and the dwelling. For a detached garage built against the property line situation you will see fire resistant construction (1 hr) and no openings along the property line. NFPA has already been mentioned, another are the icodes https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/ and would be the International Residential Code for SFR.

Also, just because it's on the approved drawings doesn't always mean it's correct. Jurisdictions usually don't have the time/resources to go thru the drawings to the level of detail it seems people assume they do. Generally they are doing a cursory review to check to see if your design professional is doing their job and comment of the obvious errors. A common error designers/builders make is assume since the City didn't catch it and approved the drawings...then it must be right.

Well enough of my rambling...now what would I do. If I was building a garage for myself I'd go gypsum board and in addition to the required fire blocking (which I'd request be at constant height) I'd also specify two (maybe even three in some places) lines of 2x flat blocking at two heights around my garage. Since I often do a bit of welding/cutting/grinding, being able to control/minimize fire is a primary concern. This would give me known anchorage points through my garage. Of course I don't have the money or the land for an RV garage...so I can only dream.

Another suggestion would be plywood painted with fire proof paint, although the paint is $$.
FYI half inch drywall has a 30min fire rating and 5/8th. has a 45 min. rating.

The last "shop" not rv storage I built (20x30 due to limited space) I used sheetrock sideways which gave a 4' tall wall and then used 1/4 pegboard above that to go to the ceiling. I did that on 3 walls. Needless to say it was insulated before the interior walls were put up. I also put an outlet box every 4' around the 3 walls. 4 boxes per 20a breaker. I never wanted for hanging places or outlets. It had it's own 100A service with breakers for a 50A welder and a 220v 20A air compressor. Also had a 30A rv plug on the outside wall.

Food for thought.

I assume this is a detached structure, so fire resistance should not be an issue.

Mine is a garage sized shop, not a RV sized barn, but I used T1-11 8" OC exterior siding on the interior walls. I think it looks nicer than OSB or plain plywood. Water proof if you ever get any inside, and very durable. Since it is lapped at the joints, it is easy to remove a sheet to add utilities in the wall cavities. I like the wood tone color, but could be painted if that's your thing.