RV Garage

Ivylog wrote:

dannytas wrote:
We are currently looking for an A class, but with the lower doors it sure limits what we can get.

Before I'd compromise on the height of a MH, I would remove the concrete on the right side from the road to 15' inside the right bay. Replace with a flat pour till inside the garage 5' and then ramp back up in the last 10'. This will probably give you 12" or more additional clearance on the front of a new MH and a little less in the middle. Add a manually folding section to the bottom of the door to fill in. The back axle may not get to the original floor level. Not sure this would work if you have to back into the garage.

Another option would be to replace the roll up door with two taller doors that swing open, but it would be hard to make them match the looks of the other roll up door.

I really like your idea about lowering the right bay floor. I just happen to have two panels of the doors that I replaced so that I could have larger windows. It would be at least one door section lower, giving me that much more height. Thanks!!!:B

My moho garage is 40x60 with 16' eaves and I don't have slides. When I first built it there was plenty of room to move the coach around. Now with all the toys, there are paths.....14 foot doors will insure a good resale value, 12 foot doors will devalue you property. Steel red iron buildings come in 20x40 bays, best value in buying multiples of bays.

Ours is 75' long and 18' wide.

Length is fine and allows a workshop in back and the car and golf cart in front of the coach.

18' wide is adequate, but I'd recommend 20' wide. Not so much because of the slides: it's that some of the bay doors are huge. Wider would give us better wall clearance, more walk-around room, and improved loading/staging space.

Nice garages guys good ideas too thanks for sharing

A couple of years ago I built a new barn for thee MH. DW was upset over the size. We we upgrade, she was concerned if it would fit in the barn. I did not go with her thoughts and built it bigger. 60x30 with 14/ high garage doors. 14' on both doors so that if necessary I could move it around without worrying about hitting the overhead rails. Only regret is that I didn't make it wider so both doors would be 14' wide.

dannytas wrote:
We are currently looking for an A class, but with the lower doors it sure limits what we can get.

Before I'd compromise on the height of a MH, I would remove the concrete on the right side from the road to 15' inside the right bay. Replace with a flat pour till inside the garage 5' and then ramp back up in the last 10'. This will probably give you 12" or more additional clearance on the front of a new MH and a little less in the middle. Add a manually folding section to the bottom of the door to fill in. The back axle may not get to the original floor level. Not sure this would work if you have to back into the garage.

Another option would be to replace the roll up door with two taller doors that swing open, but it would be hard to make them match the looks of the other roll up door.

Mine is under a roof with no walls. Since we often use it as a guest house I like being able to see out the windows. If I ever get to build walls I plan to put in lots of windows to preserve the view. Also, it will need to be climate controlled or able to vent to keep the air fresh inside. The nice thing about no walls is that it's easier to expand, I have already done that twice. The main thing that I would really like to have now is the ability to dump where it is parked. That would be useful even if we didn't use it as a guest house. Dump stations are hard to find on some of my routes home so I often arrive with at least something in the tanks, plus I generally try clean the coach and rinse the tanks thoroughly after a trip.

We have a 40'x44', with two bays with one (on the right) having a drive-thru. All the doors are 12'. I wish that they were at least 14'. When I bought a 37' fifth wheel, we had to have the front air conditioner changed to lower profile so that it would fit. We are currently looking for an A class, but with the lower doors it sure limits what we can get.

Build as much as you can afford. 45' long is good. It should be wide enough for slides out, storage shelves and room enough for lawn mores, ATV and all the other stuff one tends to accumulate

I built a 30x60 steel building with a 19'6" center height and a 14x14 door. The RV has been gone about 3 years but the garage/shop has gotten considerably smaller. Between the paint booth, tools, toys, bench, racks and equipment 1800 square feet fills up fast. So building a shop/garage is like buying a tool box. Buy as big as you can afford. You will use the space.
Randy