Sidewinder after market wedge.

glazier wrote:
Once you loosen the two bolts on the wedge, back into it as normal allowing your jaw to close. After the jaw locks, chock the rear of your trailer tires and put your truck in reverse. This will force the loose wedge as far back as it could ever go while being hooked up. After forcing the loose wedge, unhook as normal then tighten the 2 bolts to the proper torque. This should have you in good shape for hooking up the next time. If you attempt to install the wedge by hitting it with a hammer while it's in the hitch, you may make it to tight to rehook. As mentioned you will get some movement at the wedge area of your hitch funnel, this is normal. Without the slight movement at the funnel area, you will have a time hooking, and unhooking.

My method is the opposite. I had the wedge on and just slightly tight. I hitched up and chocked the tires. I then put it in drive and moved forward until the pin hit the hitch plate. I then used a piece of 1x1 and tapped the wedge slightly forward. I un hitched and tightened the wedge.
My reason is I want the king pin to take the weight, not the wedge.
Since doing this my hitching and unhitching is as easy as with a standrad pin box. I do get some slight noise from the hitch, but again its the same as a normal pin box.
BTW: I did buy the Reese 16K specific wedge.