I have a Keystone Alpine 3720FB with the front closet over the hitch. full width, two sliding doors.. I haven't been able to keep them on the track.. 1. the screws that hold the roller assembly keep coming out of the door. 2. the mounting surface of the roller assembly bracket is not flush with the door, but 1/4 inch away, like ears.. how could they ever be solid?like this roller assemblyanyhow.. gonna remove the bracket and put bolts with washers thru the door and use some spacer to support the ears, and nylocks to secure the bolts. maybe some loctite too..now, anyone have any suggestions on a spacer or something above the roller in the track to insure it doesn't come out of the track. thinking of a 1/8-1/4 plastic rod. placed above the roller in the track, glued to the top inside of the track. use some rtv, or weatherstrip adhesive to hold it.. not going to move in normal operation.. don't think I can/want to screw thru something this small.

You just need something on the top of the door so it won't go up. Just a small piece of anything right next the roller.

When I have a screw working out of a hole I can usually squirt some RTV into the hole first - then the screw. Then when all bonds up it is pretty difficult to get the screw out...Maybe you make this idea work with what you got???Just a thoughtRoy Ken

K Charles wrote:You just need something on the top of the door so it won't go up. Just a small piece of anything right next the roller.yes, a thin piece of plastic there would work too.. but how to secure it to the door?

RoyB wrote:When I have a screw working out of a hole I can usually squirt some RTV into the hole first - then the screw. Then when all bonds up it is pretty difficult to get the screw out...Maybe you make this idea work with what you got???Just a thoughtRoy Kenhm. hadn't thought of using rtv in the screw hole.. suppose its worth a try.. and a little spacer for the ears.

Problem with putting a spacer on the door (or track) then becomes what do you do if you ever =need= to remove the doors? Personally, I think I'd put something on the top of the track, screwed into the upper frame, but only as long as the door is. It would be above the doors when in the closed position, then I'd be sure the doors didn't work themselves open. This way, if the doors ever did need to some off, you slide them to the opposite side where you now have room to get them off =and= if necessary, you could unscrew the spacer and remove it, too. JMO...On edit; is there some way to anchor them to the floor in transport to keep them from bouncing? Even a wedge in the roller track might work. Simple and easily removable. Again, JMO...Lyle

Sliding closet doors keep coming off the track, how to fix

rhagfo
Explorer III
Aug 31, 2017
So I just looked at my closet door rollers and tracks. My tracks and rollers are just like all the home units I have ever delt with, the roller will not come out of the tracks unless the doors are tilted out at the bottom.
Imaroadrunnr
Explorer
Aug 31, 2017
I have a 2001 Cedar Creek and my closet doors were always jumping the track but I installed a Burgla Bar on them and they keep the doors tightly closed. Got them on Amazon and cheap. Oh, due to the terrible condition of many interstates I put my 32" flat screen on the bed and cover it with a heavy spread and it works very well.
My 2 cents worth.
Imaroadrunner
Las Vegas
2005 Ram 3500 CTD (62k miles) 6 speed
'01 Cedar Creek 34ft.
sdetweil
Explorer
Aug 22, 2017
this year, another adventure with the closet doors.. the adjusters worked loose, then the doors came off the track again..

SO, I finally decided to try silicone RTV on the adjuster screws, and voila!.. no more adjuster problems..

but still one more change.. the doors slide as a unit left right and the back roller comes off the track, jumping over the little stop..

SO, I drilled a hole thru both tracks and put a bolt thru in the center, to limit the door slide into the other door space.. I put nuts on the bolt on both sides of the tracks to make sure to not bend the track. (had to do two bolts, one for each door. didn't take a pic, will have to do that)

have gone about 4500 miles since these two changes, and the doors have not come off, and the latch is still easy to use (not pinched because a door adjuster has changed).
sdetweil
Explorer
Jul 18, 2016
overhill7 wrote:
Sounds like the same doors I have on 2013 Montana. I gave up working on it. When we travel I bungee cord both doors wide open. Haven't come off the tracks in 2 years.

thanks.. should be the same

I was considering this approach too.. Of course if you can hold them still they shouldn't have a problem. thanks for confirming.
overhill7
Explorer
Jul 18, 2016
Sounds like the same doors I have on 2013 Montana. I gave up working on it. When we travel I bungee cord both doors wide open. Haven't come off the tracks in 2 years.
sdetweil
Explorer
Jul 17, 2016
rhagfo wrote:

I took a different route to a smooth ride from the 5er and TV, I will say I was convinced not only from the big bump we took on the road buckle, but also watching the 5er in mirrors while towing on rough roads, that placing shocks on the 5er would smooth out the ride.
There are many who will say they don't see an advantage to having shocks on a trailer, well if you watch it before and after you will realize the difference, you will also feel it.

thanks.. have considered adding shocks, just not gotten to it..
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jul 17, 2016
sdetweil wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
:h
Got to ask what types of roads are you driving on and how fast?

We hit a road buckle once, like a speed bump at 45, the TV didn't do too bad (Bilstein shocks) but a could have sworn that the 5er left the ground! There were no shocks at the time on the 5er. No issues with closet doors, wiped out three door shelf's in the refer.
Do you have great shocks on the TV, and shocks on the 5er??

I39 in Illinois. super highway. I haven't been on much else in the 10,000 miles on the FW. 39 is either like glass, or like 4x4s laying across it. I run G614's, and was doing 70mph. tv and trailer tire temps about 8 degrees above ambient, cold temps at 95. no shocks on FW.

I also have a trailair triglide pinbox.

the sign said 'dip', right at the depression. no other vehicles around so I didn't have any forwarning.

the closet in question is directly over the pinbox.

on the TV (2012 ford f350 dually) I run Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks.

I took a different route to a smooth ride from the 5er and TV, I will say I was convinced not only from the big bump we took on the road buckle, but also watching the 5er in mirrors while towing on rough roads, that placing shocks on the 5er would smooth out the ride.
There are many who will say they don't see an advantage to having shocks on a trailer, well if you watch it before and after you will realize the difference, you will also feel it.
sdetweil
Explorer
Jul 17, 2016
rhagfo wrote:
:h
Got to ask what types of roads are you driving on and how fast?

We hit a road buckle once, like a speed bump at 45, the TV didn't do too bad (Bilstein shocks) but a could have sworn that the 5er left the ground! There were no shocks at the time on the 5er. No issues with closet doors, wiped out three door shelf's in the refer.
Do you have great shocks on the TV, and shocks on the 5er??

I39 in Illinois. super highway. I haven't been on much else in the 10,000 miles on the FW. 39 is either like glass, or like 4x4s laying across it. I run G614's, and was doing 70mph. tv and trailer tire temps about 8 degrees above ambient, cold temps at 95. no shocks on FW.

I also have a trailair triglide pinbox.

the sign said 'dip', right at the depression. no other vehicles around so I didn't have any forwarning.

the closet in question is directly over the pinbox.

on the TV (2012 ford f350 dually) I run Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jul 17, 2016
:h
Got to ask what types of roads are you driving on and how fast?

We hit a road buckle once, like a speed bump at 45, the TV didn't do too bad (Bilstein shocks) but a could have sworn that the 5er left the ground! There were no shocks at the time on the 5er. No issues with closet doors, wiped out three door shelf's in the refer.
Do you have great shocks on the TV, and shocks on the 5er??
sdetweil
Explorer
Jul 16, 2016
travel feedback.. mostly success...

on one bracket it was too far away from the track, and a big bump knocked that roller off (and tossed a lawn chair out the back of the TV bed!)

on another roller, the rough road bent the roller adjustment screw retainer so that the screw came out and the the space was to big..

but only twice over 3000 miles.. so a lot better.. these roller assemblies are just not up to the task is the net..

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Sliding closet doors keep coming off the track, how to fix

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