So light a child can remove it from the truck

Sport45 wrote:
I think he's talking about from the back of the pin box to the sides of the bed. He needed horizontal clearance, not vertical.

Correct. I wasn't very clear.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
A few comments...

1) Andersen doesn't recommend flipping the GN attach version around. This is only recommended for the universal rail version

2) The aluminum coupler can be turned around with either version

3) The Andersen does not move the attach point back 10-12". The hitch moves the ball back 5" from the GN attach. My GN attach is a good 4" in front of my axle.

4) Cummins give it a rest... Produce an instance of an Andersen failing and come back with some actual data to support your max rating claim.

My point is anyone can say something rates to a certain spec but I still ask you do you really believe these should rate at 25K? If so what does that say about the B&W or any of the other hitches rated at 25K?

I have nothing against the Andersen but to think towing a 25K RV with it is fine is ridiculous. I would have no problem towing a lighter 5er with one but no way my current 20K MS.

The bed of that truck will be crushed with any sizable RV attached with the fore and aft pressures applied to the bed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, never having a goose neck style connection for a fifth wheel hitch . Your previous B&W dented your truck bed,until you shimmed the gap underneath. What I am hearing this was a common problem with B&W , and without the shims it would continue to be the same issue .

This seems a little confusing when you state :The bed of the truck will be crushed with any sizable RV attached with the fore ,and aft pressures . Whats the difference between the B&W connected with a gooseneck ball, and an Andersen connected the same ?? :h They both are applying pressure the same fore ,and aft. It's known that the B&W crushes or dents the bed of the truck without the shims . What I haven't heard is the Andersen doing the same thing . Maybe the Andersen does dent the top ribs of the bed, If so I would think simply shimming the gap, the same as B&W would be the same cure ,would you not agree ????


I'm curious, would you tow your new fifth wheel with your old B&W, and gooseneck connection ,instead of the new B&W connected to the four points on the OEM fifth wheel prep, and if not what would be the reason.. Is it not rated for 25K .

crcr wrote:

rskeans wrote:

kohai wrote:

psuce wrote:
My question on the Anderson gooseneck to fifth wheel adapter is can the Anderson hitch be flipped front to back? Looking at pics of it, when you install it the hitch base is centered 5-6" behind your gooseneck ball. Then when you add the kingpin adapter you're another 5-6" behind that, so when it's all said and done the king pin is now 10-12" behind center of axle (assuming your gooseneck is installed within centerline of your axle). In my long bed I would rather be centered, does anyone know if this can be accommodated on the Anderson? Here is a pic for reference:

You can mount the aluminum block on the kingpin the other way around so that the ball socket is behind the kingpin instead of in front of it (your pic). That is what I do, otherwise I risk the back of the pinbox hitting the side bed on a sharp turn.

Exactly. I dropped the Andersen ball to the lowest setting and raised the pinbox to the highest setting to get the 5ver as low as possible. Even at that I had 8.5 in clearance from the bed rails to the overhang. However, in doing so the Morride King Pin assembly would have been able to hit the side of the bed on a 90 degree turn since it was below the bed rail level. By reversing the Al block I was able to move the King Pin closer to the cab by maybe 8-9" and also provided all the clearance that I needed to the bed rails (side of the truck bed).

Would you mind explaining how moving the King Pin closer to the cab added clearance to the bed rails? The bed sides are the same height from front to rear, so I'm not understanding why this change would give you added bed clearance. Thanks for any explanation, just trying to understand this...

Sure. For example, If the rear of the pin box was 36" back from the King Pin, and the king pin was behind the ball, then when the truck was turned 90 degrees the back of the pin box would be 36" toward the bed rails. Result, smash! Now, if you were to move the king pin forward past the Ball by 12", you have just reduced the 36" toward the bed rails to only 24". Result, clearance. BTW, it worked perfectly.

I think he's talking about from the back of the pin box to the sides of the bed. He needed horizontal clearance, not vertical.

rskeans wrote:

kohai wrote:

psuce wrote:
My question on the Anderson gooseneck to fifth wheel adapter is can the Anderson hitch be flipped front to back? Looking at pics of it, when you install it the hitch base is centered 5-6" behind your gooseneck ball. Then when you add the kingpin adapter you're another 5-6" behind that, so when it's all said and done the king pin is now 10-12" behind center of axle (assuming your gooseneck is installed within centerline of your axle). In my long bed I would rather be centered, does anyone know if this can be accommodated on the Anderson? Here is a pic for reference:

You can mount the aluminum block on the kingpin the other way around so that the ball socket is behind the kingpin instead of in front of it (your pic). That is what I do, otherwise I risk the back of the pinbox hitting the side bed on a sharp turn.

Exactly. I dropped the Andersen ball to the lowest setting and raised the pinbox to the highest setting to get the 5ver as low as possible. Even at that I had 8.5 in clearance from the bed rails to the overhang. However, in doing so the Morride King Pin assembly would have been able to hit the side of the bed on a 90 degree turn since it was below the bed rail level. By reversing the Al block I was able to move the King Pin closer to the cab by maybe 8-9" and also provided all the clearance that I needed to the bed rails (side of the truck bed).

Would you mind explaining how moving the King Pin closer to the cab added clearance to the bed rails? The bed sides are the same height from front to rear, so I'm not understanding why this change would give you added bed clearance. Thanks for any explanation, just trying to understand this...

jerem0621 wrote:
This thread has morphed into something quite interesting... Seems lots of voices saying this isn't going to work... Except it does...without issue.

The Andersen Ultimate has years of field use and millions of towing miles...zero failures.

Fore, aft, lateral forces, and the famous verticle forces have been thrown at this hitch....zero failure

While the Andersen just keeps on performing Others still worry about pull test and pray they don't Drop their fiver (Cummins and his B&W excluded) on their shiny trucks beds the Andersen Ultimate owner blissfully trucks down the road free from worry of dropping the fiver, or experiencing strange chucking, or wondering if their neighbor can help them remove the hitch when they get home.

To each his own...but the strength of the Andersen is PROVEN. The triangular design is not just a vertical load capable design. Triangles work sideways too. :)

It's fine not to like it, want it, or buy it. No problem...its not for everyone...but to say it won't work or can't work is simply false. It does work and it continues to work every single day.

Thanks,

Jeremiah

X2 let the Nay Sayers believe what they want, I have used mine for 3 years and love it!!! end of story.

Housted

psuce wrote:

Me Again wrote:

We have had this misconception here before. It the gooseneck hitch is used to clamp the hitch the the bed of the truck and torqued down to 50 pounds, then the gooseneck hitch is not holding up anything! Chris

I don't follow what you're saying?

Some people think most of the weight is on the trucks gooseneck hitch when in reality it is on the truck sheet metal bed. Chris

kohai wrote:

psuce wrote:
My question on the Anderson gooseneck to fifth wheel adapter is can the Anderson hitch be flipped front to back? Looking at pics of it, when you install it the hitch base is centered 5-6" behind your gooseneck ball. Then when you add the kingpin adapter you're another 5-6" behind that, so when it's all said and done the king pin is now 10-12" behind center of axle (assuming your gooseneck is installed within centerline of your axle). In my long bed I would rather be centered, does anyone know if this can be accommodated on the Anderson? Here is a pic for reference:

You can mount the aluminum block on the kingpin the other way around so that the ball socket is behind the kingpin instead of in front of it (your pic). That is what I do, otherwise I risk the back of the pinbox hitting the side bed on a sharp turn.

Exactly. I dropped the Andersen ball to the lowest setting and raised the pinbox to the highest setting to get the 5ver as low as possible. Even at that I had 8.5 in clearance from the bed rails to the overhang. However, in doing so the Morride King Pin assembly would have been able to hit the side of the bed on a 90 degree turn since it was below the bed rail level. By reversing the Al block I was able to move the King Pin closer to the cab by maybe 8-9" and also provided all the clearance that I needed to the bed rails (side of the truck bed).

This thread has morphed into something quite interesting... Seems lots of voices saying this isn't going to work... Except it does...without issue.

The Andersen Ultimate has years of field use and millions of towing miles...zero failures.

Fore, aft, lateral forces, and the famous verticle forces have been thrown at this hitch....zero failure

While the Andersen just keeps on performing Others still worry about pull test and pray they don't Drop their fiver (Cummins and his B&W excluded) on their shiny trucks beds the Andersen Ultimate owner blissfully trucks down the road free from worry of dropping the fiver, or experiencing strange chucking, or wondering if their neighbor can help them remove the hitch when they get home.

To each his own...but the strength of the Andersen is PROVEN. The triangular design is not just a vertical load capable design. Triangles work sideways too. :)

It's fine not to like it, want it, or buy it. No problem...its not for everyone...but to say it won't work or can't work is simply false. It does work and it continues to work every single day.

Thanks,

Jeremiah

Cummins12V98 wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
A few comments...

1) Andersen doesn't recommend flipping the GN attach version around. This is only recommended for the universal rail version

2) The aluminum coupler can be turned around with either version

3) The Andersen does not move the attach point back 10-12". The hitch moves the ball back 5" from the GN attach. My GN attach is a good 4" in front of my axle.

4) Cummins give it a rest... Produce an instance of an Andersen failing and come back with some actual data to support your max rating claim.

My point is anyone can say something rates to a certain spec but I still ask you do you really believe these should rate at 25K? If so what does that say about the B&W or any of the other hitches rated at 25K?

I have nothing against the Andersen but to think towing a 25K RV with it is fine is ridiculous. I would have no problem towing a lighter 5er with one but no way my current 20K MS.

The bed of that truck will be crushed with any sizable RV attached with the fore and aft pressures applied to the bed.

My 5ver only weighs 19,100 lbs. I guess it is light enough in that there is Zero bed deformation.