Solar conundrum (updated with shopping list)
Ok so if you haven't noticed I am planning on a solar upgrade to my Sundance (See sig). I am going to be going with two Trojan T-105 6v's (225 amp-hours total). We just went camping and over the two...
Forum Discussion
I've found these discussions to be interesting. I'll just tell you what I installed last year.
Yes, get the Trimetric. You can't really tell what's going on with your batteries without one.
I installed smaller 100 watt panels (Renogy) so I could place them where I wanted to. Get larger ones and you'll have to make compromises about where they go. I've 400 watts total.
Since I only installed 100 watt and 12 volt panels I didn't need MPPT. Put in a Morningstar PWM (45 amp) instead so I could add panels if I wanted - cost $180 with a battery temp. sensor.
I replaced the two 12v 'deep cycle' NAPA batteries with four Trojan T-105s (about $700). Figured I could check the water level once or twice a month instead of spending twice or more much for AGM.
Bought a 4kw inverter (really only wanted ~2kw, but the price was too good!) on eBay for around $700.
Total system cost me $4k installed, with six and eight gauge cable used everywhere.
We went on a 9 week trip to the southwest last year and it worked flawlessly. My wife insisted on bringing a generator along just in case we needed AC, but I never started it. I tried the system out for a few days before we went on the trip while parked in our driveway. Ran the 40" tv, several lights (switched to LEDs) and other stuff during the day and evening. Ran a table top fan 24 hours a day. Even made microwave popcorn a couple of times. Batteries would be down to about 80 - 85% in the mornings and be charged up by evening, even when a little cloudy. I don't even have my converter turned on anymore and may even remove it.
While my goal was to keep total costs as low as possible while still having a really efficient system, there's a million different ways to skin this cat. Guess the bottom line is to pay attention to details. Use the biggest cable you can for any DC runs, and keep them as short as possible. Put in disconnects for your battery bank, your inverter and your solar panels (there's a LOT of DC current just waiting to arc weld something!). Photobucket links:
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%201
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%202
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%203
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%204
Yes, get the Trimetric. You can't really tell what's going on with your batteries without one.
I installed smaller 100 watt panels (Renogy) so I could place them where I wanted to. Get larger ones and you'll have to make compromises about where they go. I've 400 watts total.
Since I only installed 100 watt and 12 volt panels I didn't need MPPT. Put in a Morningstar PWM (45 amp) instead so I could add panels if I wanted - cost $180 with a battery temp. sensor.
I replaced the two 12v 'deep cycle' NAPA batteries with four Trojan T-105s (about $700). Figured I could check the water level once or twice a month instead of spending twice or more much for AGM.
Bought a 4kw inverter (really only wanted ~2kw, but the price was too good!) on eBay for around $700.
Total system cost me $4k installed, with six and eight gauge cable used everywhere.
We went on a 9 week trip to the southwest last year and it worked flawlessly. My wife insisted on bringing a generator along just in case we needed AC, but I never started it. I tried the system out for a few days before we went on the trip while parked in our driveway. Ran the 40" tv, several lights (switched to LEDs) and other stuff during the day and evening. Ran a table top fan 24 hours a day. Even made microwave popcorn a couple of times. Batteries would be down to about 80 - 85% in the mornings and be charged up by evening, even when a little cloudy. I don't even have my converter turned on anymore and may even remove it.
While my goal was to keep total costs as low as possible while still having a really efficient system, there's a million different ways to skin this cat. Guess the bottom line is to pay attention to details. Use the biggest cable you can for any DC runs, and keep them as short as possible. Put in disconnects for your battery bank, your inverter and your solar panels (there's a LOT of DC current just waiting to arc weld something!). Photobucket links:
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%201
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%202
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%203
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/theonewaltben/slideshow/Solar%20Install%20-%20Part%204
