Solar conundrum (updated with shopping list)
Ok so if you haven't noticed I am planning on a solar upgrade to my Sundance (See sig). I am going to be going with two Trojan T-105 6v's (225 amp-hours total). We just went camping and over the two...
Forum Discussion
I stated my system on the inverter side and worked twards solar
I changed my elec service from 30 AMP TO 50 amp , with a new panel- wire and a 50 amp hubble and new power cord , used the old 30 amp panel for the inverter panel , put in a 3000 watt Kisae w/ transfer switch ,
Then moved to batterys , the slide box only would take 2 batts , so I built a slide in the front basement near the existing box , used a vented double 6 volt abs box , that gave me 4 - 6 volts , wired it with 4/0 welding wire including battery inter connects , re wired the house connects w/ 2/0 welding wire and replaced my converter with a PD W/ charge wizard .
The solar is 4 -120 Kyocera panels , make my own mts out of alum angle formed into Z , so I could hit framing with each mt.
Wired the panels in 2 sets , 2 panels in series twice w/ 10 ga 2 strand sunlight res wire, reason for this is 2 panels in series is 33.8 volts at 7.1 amps . then the two sets are run in parallel to a home made combiner box at ceiling level in a closet, which makes it 33.8 volts at 14.2 amps , ran that to the Tistar 45 amp controller 20ft away w/ #6 welding wire . the reason for this is a MPPT is most efficient at 30-50 volts , this is only about a 1.5 -2 % difference from just running the panels all in series and using #10 all the way to the controller , but my OCD was running the show by now. The tristar controller has a ts-rm-2 remote panel comes with a 100ft cord and temp sender , put sence wires on used #4 welding wire to the batterys , and used a babybox with a 20 amp breaker on the solar side and a 60 amp on the battery side , breakers should be sized to 1.25% of amp load
I considered this loads of fun and now have to find another project
but I made sure to do everying with a lot of thought ,may not be the system or all but its for me
I changed my elec service from 30 AMP TO 50 amp , with a new panel- wire and a 50 amp hubble and new power cord , used the old 30 amp panel for the inverter panel , put in a 3000 watt Kisae w/ transfer switch ,
Then moved to batterys , the slide box only would take 2 batts , so I built a slide in the front basement near the existing box , used a vented double 6 volt abs box , that gave me 4 - 6 volts , wired it with 4/0 welding wire including battery inter connects , re wired the house connects w/ 2/0 welding wire and replaced my converter with a PD W/ charge wizard .
The solar is 4 -120 Kyocera panels , make my own mts out of alum angle formed into Z , so I could hit framing with each mt.
Wired the panels in 2 sets , 2 panels in series twice w/ 10 ga 2 strand sunlight res wire, reason for this is 2 panels in series is 33.8 volts at 7.1 amps . then the two sets are run in parallel to a home made combiner box at ceiling level in a closet, which makes it 33.8 volts at 14.2 amps , ran that to the Tistar 45 amp controller 20ft away w/ #6 welding wire . the reason for this is a MPPT is most efficient at 30-50 volts , this is only about a 1.5 -2 % difference from just running the panels all in series and using #10 all the way to the controller , but my OCD was running the show by now. The tristar controller has a ts-rm-2 remote panel comes with a 100ft cord and temp sender , put sence wires on used #4 welding wire to the batterys , and used a babybox with a 20 amp breaker on the solar side and a 60 amp on the battery side , breakers should be sized to 1.25% of amp load
I considered this loads of fun and now have to find another project
but I made sure to do everying with a lot of thought ,may not be the system or all but its for me
