Suburban Water Heater Problem
On our Suburban water heater, the 110-volt "side" has quit working. I have been told on this forum that this is because the high limit switch has gone bad. 1. Is it a major job to replace this swit...
Forum Discussion
110V AC power comes from a circuit breaker to junction box on side of water heater.
From junction box to ON/OFF switch in outside compartment then to set of t-stat (high limit first then down connecting wire to normal t-stat).
From t-stat to/thru electric element.
With cover off t-stat....turn switch ON and check for AC power at terminal on top t-stat......no AC voltage there, then problem is with switch, connection in junction box or circuit breaker.
Got AC voltage.....check for it at normal t-stat and then at element.
Just a simple voltage check until it isn't there.
Personally I like Suburban vs Atwood.
Suburban doesn't use 12V DC to operate the electric heating (Atwood uses a 12V DC relay to activate the AC power to element)
Suburban uses separate sets of t-stats (Atwood uses one set for both electric & propane......problem with t-stat no heating from either source)
Suburban only uses circuit board for propane function (Atwood uses circuit board for both electric & propane due to the integrated use of 12V DC)
Down side.....Suburban uses a steel glass lined tank so an anode rod has to be used (Atwood uses aluminum alloy tank so no anode rod needed) BUT Suburban drain hole is larger so easier to flush.
Technically Atwood distributes propane heat better due to 'U' tube going diagonally across tank (more direct surface area)---Suburban 'U' tube is vertical on right side of tank.
Actually....not much difference in recovery time between the 2 on propane.
From junction box to ON/OFF switch in outside compartment then to set of t-stat (high limit first then down connecting wire to normal t-stat).
From t-stat to/thru electric element.
With cover off t-stat....turn switch ON and check for AC power at terminal on top t-stat......no AC voltage there, then problem is with switch, connection in junction box or circuit breaker.
Got AC voltage.....check for it at normal t-stat and then at element.
Just a simple voltage check until it isn't there.
Personally I like Suburban vs Atwood.
Suburban doesn't use 12V DC to operate the electric heating (Atwood uses a 12V DC relay to activate the AC power to element)
Suburban uses separate sets of t-stats (Atwood uses one set for both electric & propane......problem with t-stat no heating from either source)
Suburban only uses circuit board for propane function (Atwood uses circuit board for both electric & propane due to the integrated use of 12V DC)
Down side.....Suburban uses a steel glass lined tank so an anode rod has to be used (Atwood uses aluminum alloy tank so no anode rod needed) BUT Suburban drain hole is larger so easier to flush.
Technically Atwood distributes propane heat better due to 'U' tube going diagonally across tank (more direct surface area)---Suburban 'U' tube is vertical on right side of tank.
Actually....not much difference in recovery time between the 2 on propane.
