suburban water heater

Well....mine was 14 yr old and the card went out. I figured 14 yr, $100 card and what would happen next so I bought an exact replacement for $350.00 on Ebay vs local dealer at $750.00 PLUS TAX.

I cant believe my pump is still working after 16 years but I do have a new one on hand.

You should pull the elec element and inspect it. If the anode rod is gone then the element may well be corroded. May be time to replace both.

if a water tank fails, would or could it leak into trailer causing much damage. since I want to keep it, kind of leaning toward replacing. now the choice Atwood or suburban. would Atwood have a direct replacement for my opening.

If the WH works, and does not leak, I'd just flush it good, add new anode and use it. You should be able to catch a leak before much damage occurs.

If you want to replace it, I'd stay with exact replacement.

Jerry

Suburban and Atwood are completely different sizes for same capacity

Suburban for Suburban
Atwood for Atwood

Otherwise you will have to do modifications

Anode rod should be checked at least 2X a year and replaced when 75% has been consumed.

Tank needs a good flush rinse and wouldn't hurt to pull and replace electric element as it doesn't sound like water heater was properly cared for in past.
Element is inexpensive and with it an anode rod out you can really flush inside of tank clean.....just remember tank has a glass lining so DON'T go scraping/gouging around inside tank

thanks all
will order parts and flush.
is the flush kit from Amazon really needed.

bbaker2001 wrote:
thanks all
will order parts and flush.
is the flush kit from Amazon really needed.

The 'wand' that attaches to a garden hose works OK
You stick it in thru drain hole and can blast away......up/down/sideways and at least on Suburban the drain hole is bigger so wand doesn't get completely in the way (Suburban 3/4"-----Atwood 1/2")

I remove drain plug....then turn on water supply and let it sorta power wash the tank....helps blow any stuff on bottom of tank out drain hole (nothing in hole blocking)

PLUS with Suburban you have the option of blasting away thru electric element opening when you pull the element as it is in outside compartment. (Atwood is inside on backside of tank)

wildtoad wrote:
You should pull the elec element and inspect it. If the anode rod is gone then the element may well be corroded. May be time to replace both.

I found that easier said than done. Got the socket they make to do that, penetrating oil, and no go. I gave up and figured I would just use propane. It is frozen in there tight.

Mike

Wheter you use propane or electric on a Suburban WH......you still use the anode rod.

cpaulsen wrote:
Wheter you use propane or electric on a Suburban WH......you still use the anode rod.

True.....

But I think 'Mike_uswest' was referring to difficulty in removing electric element and decided to just use the propane system