surge protector

Mile High wrote:

pianotuna wrote:


Folks who have the top of the line progressive actually get a useful piece of equipment. Folks who buy the bottom of the line have pretty much got "the emperor's new clothes" and are lulled into a sense of false complacency.

Because of the possibility of an open neutral, 50 amp rv's are more susceptible to over voltage on one leg. If the owner would check before they plugged in, that could be avoided, too.

Bottom line is always check before you plug in.

Checking before you plug in only means it was good at the moment you tested it (another naked emperor :)). I've had two incidents that occurred days after I had already been in use of the power. Two weeks ago, the breaker failed on one leg, and my progressive shut down all of it. The parks person repairing it said his camp host pedestal lost neutral months after he had been using it, killing most of his electrical and totaling the rig.

To have half a chance, you need continuous protection.

Hmm...although I agree about checking before you plug in is a great idea, it would not have saved us this weekend. We were in a state park over the weekend. The electric company came I to the park and was replacing ground wires at all campsites. They powered down, replaced wire and powered up in about 5 minutes. 30 minutes later we go into camper and notice lights dimming in and out along with other electrical issues. Electric company was still in the park so I found them and asked if what they were doing would be causing the issue. They said "no" and came back to look. Upon inspection, they realized that they had accidentally pulled the neutral when they pulled the cover off the first time which was causing voltage issues. It messed up converter, zapped the microwave, coffee pot and water pump. Possibly other damage but won't know until we can get it in for repairs. Wishing badly that we would have installed our Progressive Industries EMS already (purchased last year but never got around to installing). Stupid mistake on our part...won't go camping again until installed. Of course this will be after repairs (whatever they may be) are completed.

It's a good idea to do the (obvious) visual check of the pedestal socket first. There have been many occasions when visual inspection revealed a badly burned socket. This happens in higher end RV parks, too but not to the extent it does in older, poorly maintained parks. When that happens demand another site or leave the park. A socket with burnt pins will damage your RV's electrical plug over time and will offer resistance to the electrical current going to your RV..

KATOOM wrote:

I also think my analogy about having one on your home was very accurate even though you know where your home is plugged in every day. And its still "on topic too" as there's still potential power issues with whomever is supplying shore power, and this is especially a problem for high lighting storm areas.

Oh we get plenty of lightning at the stick house - it blows out the refrigerator, TVs, computers, and even the surge suppressors. It's all a balance about what you want to spend vs choosing your own risk. I don't have surge suppression on the house, nor do I have a generator, armed security gaurds, a lightning protection system, or a fire sprinkler system. :)

Don, A hybird inverter makes sense for you RV usage and will help with limited AC power. It doesn't otherwise help with pedestal problems but your pre checks should eliminate most problems.

Do you have the MSH-M model?

Well I have to say that I certainly dont disagree with anyone in that surge protectors are a great advantage and a worthy insurance investment. Do I think its a MUST have item.....? I'm not sure about that part but again, I would rather have one than not simply for the assurance.

I also think my analogy about having one on your home was very accurate even though you know where your home is plugged in every day. And its still "on topic too" as there's still potential power issues with whomever is supplying shore power, and this is especially a problem for high lighting storm areas. What if your RV is plugged in to your home.....as so many of us do while it sits. Testing before connecting your RV to a pedestal is a great idea and surly to lessen the odds of issues. Although yes, its not going to account for unforeseen issues like park distribution system which was working at time of testing.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Catraveller,

I check polarity, I check voltage, then I load the connection and check it again. If I'm at a 50 amp service (rare) I use a break out box to check both legs.

I just got my Magnum boost inverter installed. That, I believe, may obviate the possible need for an autoformer. I'm still learning how to use it.

If I had a 50 amp service in the RV I would consider a top of the line unit from progressive. But, I don't, and this is destined to be my only RV and full time home for five years.

Any time you plug into campground supply you are at risk. Use of the inverter only protects you if you are not plugged into anything else. If you never plug into campground supply and are completely self contained you are not at risk.

My open 50A neutral experience.

One night I had 160V on a 30A pedestal plug and the PI unit disconnected the rig saving the equipment.

I immediately ran and pulled the plug. How did this happen? The problem was a bad neutral in the CG 240/120V distribution system. This was a somewhat uncommon failure as most CG problems are inadequate wiring for todays rigs and worn/damaged plugs and pedestals. But it did happen.

Hi Catraveller,

I check polarity, I check voltage, then I load the connection and check it again. If I'm at a 50 amp service (rare) I use a break out box to check both legs.

I just got my Magnum boost inverter installed. That, I believe, may obviate the possible need for an autoformer. I'm still learning how to use it.

If I had a 50 amp service in the RV I would consider a top of the line unit from progressive. But, I don't, and this is destined to be my only RV and full time home for five years.

Checking before you plug in is a good idea. Unfortunately it won't detect the most common problem which is low voltage. Nor does it detect an open ground or neutral occurring after the check.

Bottom line is that you get a short check with no loads and no future protection.

And it's unlikely to detect an open 50A neutral. Most likely the neutral is making an adequate connection for any check. The rubber hits the road when it's loaded and the corroded or partially open neutral fails.

I also camped for 30 years with no protection. But in 04 with a newer rig with lots of electronics I installed a Progressive Industries HW50C. I did not cut any wires and removed the unit when I sold the rig. It's now in its second rig.

pianotuna wrote:


Folks who have the top of the line progressive actually get a useful piece of equipment. Folks who buy the bottom of the line have pretty much got "the emperor's new clothes" and are lulled into a sense of false complacency.

Because of the possibility of an open neutral, 50 amp rv's are more susceptible to over voltage on one leg. If the owner would check before they plugged in, that could be avoided, too.

Bottom line is always check before you plug in.

Checking before you plug in only means it was good at the moment you tested it (another naked emperor :)). I've had two incidents that occurred days after I had already been in use of the power. Two weeks ago, the breaker failed on one leg, and my progressive shut down all of it. The parks person repairing it said his camp host pedestal lost neutral months after he had been using it, killing most of his electrical and totaling the rig.

To have half a chance, you need continuous protection.