Trailer axle lifting blocks?

Accident waiting to happen.....


Lifting a trailer.....subframe with lateral supports

personally I would build up under the frame with heavy wall tubing and keep the axles in direct contact with the springs without the blocks

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Accident waiting to happen.....


Lifting a trailer.....subframe with lateral supports

Nailed It!!!

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Accident waiting to happen.....

Ya think? ROFLMAO...........

Not to mention twisting the Lippert junk into a pretzel. That is if the Lippert nuclear power plant quality welds at the hangers hold past the first sharp turn. If they do the bottom flange may tear off I suppose.

Picture 2 is best. Don’t even need to scrap the axle u bolts. Leave the axle and springs assembled and fix to the new hangars. Be careful to mark and measure and get the alignment right.

Now is the time to adjust the trailer wheelbase to change pin weight if you want to. For that cargo box you want to put on the back etc...

Old Biscuit, that’s a seriously lift. Nicely done!

IMHO a 1" or 2"block is not going to place any more stress than is already on the hangers, but I agree that adding the cross member will add more support.
Over 10,000 miles on this set up with 2" blocks, and 5/8" ubolts.

Suspension lift blocks on a multi axle suspension aren't recommended by Dexter axle mfg in my 1-800 to their tech line a few years back.

If you notice major axle mfg like Dexter...Rockwell American don't offer suspension blocks as a option on multi axle trailers nor do trailer mfg have a option for the blocks.

The sub frame lift is the best long term safest way to lift a trailer.

Those two pictures speaks volumes for the right way vs wrong way. Blocks just adds more stress to the U bolts.....top plates.....main frame rails...spring keepers...and spring hangers especially as the tires slide (side scrub) around corners and backing maneuvers.

Now if you have a single axle trailer then short blocks with upgrade diameter/longer U bolts...heavier top plates...and reinforced spring hanger brackets (braking rotational forces) would be a wise investment.

I think modest lift block are fine. You may have noticed that company doesn't offer more than 3" lift. To me that is pushing it, but if I needed 1.5 or 2" at the most, lift blocks are perfectly safe. Guys here have a knee-jerk reaction against them, but the fact is they are used universally.

The thing is, the prices from that company are outrageous. You're looking at $700 for two axles. Just about any decent sized town has someone who makes U-bolts, for a few bucks each. Any 4WD shop can advise you where to get them. And the blocks are obviously just some aluminum bar stock with a centering bolt. Centering bolts are also a common 4WD shop item.

It would be silly to build a welded lift frame for a 1.5" lift. More than that, yes definitely.

Remember, 1.5" lift blocks is going to raise the rear of the trailer a bit less than 3", give or take. Park your trailer on some 2 x 6 boards under each tire. See if that does the job for you.

When you go to sell a Half ton towable 5er, with a custom built sub frame to fit a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, to a half ton truck owner, do you just tell them they will have to get a cutting torch and remove all of it to get it level?