We love our 5th wheel. Well, for the most part anyway. I'll say this right off the bat, I would never buy another rear kitchen model. It seems most every trip we take something in the kitchen breaks. We've had this trailer for almost 4 years when we bought it new. I have replaced/repaired every shelf in all the rear cabinets which the shelves (crappy thin luan) all broke through. We now open the fridge very, very slowly to catch anything falling out before it hits the floor and breaks because all the shelves in the door and often the wire shelves come loose. This time a door shelf broke and beer bottles fell and broke the glass piece that covers the crisper leaving shattered glass everywhere. I have modified shelves in the pantry so that nothing actually sits on the new plywood reinforced shelves but rather in wire baskets. We're tired of it. I would trade this trailer that we otherwise love if it were at all financially possible but it isn't. So I'm looking for any recommendations and advise from those who may have upgraded their 5th wheel's suspension. What works and what is a waste of money? The trailer has Trailaire Equalizers stock from Keystone which I'm certain must be the cheapest piece they could have provided. Is it worth anything to upgrade that to an aftermarket unit? Which one?I was big on adding shocks but I've read so much good and bad about adding them I'm unsure. There's not much room in there for a shock setup that I would see making much difference. I do really like the look of this system, http://www.rvimprovementsystems.com/index.html , but at $600???Anyway, I was just hoping to see if anyone has some real world experience to help me decide if anything I do would actually help smooth out the ride and preserve the peace :)TIA

You should consider CenterPoint Air Ride Suspension and shock absorbers.I installed the CenterPoint system on my 5th wheel. Big improvement.Shocks will help you too.

Poppy's 5th Wheel wrote:We love our 5th wheel. Well, for the most part anyway. I'll say this right off the bat, I would never buy another rear kitchen model. It seems most every trip we take something in the kitchen breaks. We've had this trailer for almost 4 years when we bought it new. I have replaced/repaired every shelf in all the rear cabinets which the shelves (crappy thin luan) all broke through. We now open the fridge very, very slowly to catch anything falling out before it hits the floor and breaks because all the shelves in the door and often the wire shelves come loose. This time a door shelf broke and beer bottles fell and broke the glass piece that covers the crisper leaving shattered glass everywhere. I have modified shelves in the pantry so that nothing actually sits on the new plywood reinforced shelves but rather in wire baskets. We're tired of it. I would trade this trailer that we otherwise love if it were at all financially possible but it isn't. So I'm looking for any recommendations and advise from those who may have upgraded their 5th wheel's suspension. What works and what is a waste of money? The trailer has Trailaire Equalizers stock from Keystone which I'm certain must be the cheapest piece they could have provided. Is it worth anything to upgrade that to an aftermarket unit? Which one?I was big on adding shocks but I've read so much good and bad about adding them I'm unsure. There's not much room in there for a shock setup that I would see making much difference. I do really like the look of this system, http://www.rvimprovementsystems.com/index.html, but at $600???Anyway, I was just hoping to see if anyone has some real world experience to help me decide if anything I do would actually help smooth out the ride and preserve the peace :)TIAIf you're in this FW for the long term, look at the MorRyde Independent Suspension system. Not cheap, but cheaper than a new FW. I have no direct experience with them, but pretty much everything I've read gives it good reviews. There's an air suspension system available, too. I can only =ass=ume that is even more expensive. At minimum, you should spring for the shocks.Lyle

Trailair, aka Lippert also sells an air equalizer plate that some claim really helps. Does your trailer have shocks? If not install them first. Also a morride conversion might be of help. Personally I would do the shocks and air bags first and see what happens at that point. BTW have you weighed your trailer yet? It is possible your getting some sway due to light pin.

Our 2014 came with a little better MorRyde suspension and rides pretty good. I think it is a MorRyde 4100 series and allows for much more travel than the one that came on our 2008 Montana.I have read on other forums that a lot of folks have replaced their suspensions with the MorRyde I.S. System like laknox talks about. From what I gather it is an extremely well made system that would solve all your ride issues.

I've never heard anything "bad" about installing shocks.I put them on my TT and they made a huge difference.

Trailer Suspension Upgrade / Help | Good Sam Community

Poppy_s_5th_Whe
Explorer
Nov 22, 2014
The research on this is driving me crazy. I have limited funds to invest but I know I need to do something. My problem was made when worse when I discovered I really can't do anything to modify the suspension to ride smoother until I fix my poor clearance issue.

I spoke to my fabricator (guy who did my rear racks I posted in another thread this summer) and since I only need the raise about 1 1/2 " he thinks I should just add small spring lift blocks.

Like this: http://www.truckspring.com/products/...__TC97003.aspx

That would give me 3.25" of tire to trailer floor clearance so I could then choose a suspension kit like either the SRE3000 or CRE4000 or something.

I realize the best way to raise the trailer would be a full sub-frame but cost (I'm guessing closing to $1,000 ?) and the fact I need so little has me thinking this alternative.

Thoughts?

P.S. What is the measurement they are referring to between a 33" and 35" wheelbase?

MorRyde SRE4000 Suspension System SRE2-733X-1
This system is designed for a 33" wheel base - Tandem.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Nov 21, 2014
Poppy's 5th Wheel wrote:

I forget where you are! We will be up there next fall for a visit. Anyway, I guess I wouldn't get under there in the snow either but after getting under mine I found I only have 1.75" of clearance and need (according to Mor/ryde) 3" minimum. If I decide I need to go to either the SRE3000 or the CRE4000 I will need to have my suspension altered.

I run my tires at 80 psi. How do I determine if I can run them any lower and would I really want to?

You would have to check with the tire manufacturer on tire pressure and load ratings, but remember that your original tires were 65 lbs max so any more than that increases your load rating. I don't believe there is any need to run upgraded tires at their maximum pressure. My LRE tires at 65 have the same load rating as the OEM LRD tires, so 70 lbs adds a margin over factory specs. You would actually need to weigh your trailer with just its tires on the platform to see the load, then divide by 4 to get the load at each tire, then add enough air pressure to give you a safety margin.
If you need any info for your trip next fall, let me know.
vietvet66-67
Explorer
Nov 21, 2014
Daughter and son-in-law put the moryde IS on their 40 ft Newmar Kountry Star 2 years ago, and love it. Said it never rode so good since it was new. Pricy but worth every penny according to them.
Good luck with your choice.
shadows4
Explorer III
Nov 20, 2014
Poppy's 5th Wheel wrote:
SkiSmuggs wrote:

What pressure do you have those 16" tires at? I replaced my 15" Blow Max LRD with Maxxis LRE. So the old tires were at 65 lbs and, when I mentioned that I was running the Maxxis at 70, someone strongly suggested I run them at 80. But looking at tire load charts, it seems they should be pressured for the load they will carry. Methinks I would have a softer ride at 70 lbs and more load capacity than I had with the old tires. If you are running the 16" tires at 100 lbs, that may be part of your ride problem.

I run my tires at 80 psi. How do I determine if I can run them any lower and would I really want to?

This rang a bell with me. When we bought our fifth wheel we replaced the old GY Marathon LRD tires with Maxxis LRE tires. We picked up the fifth wheel in Atlanta and it was a rough pull with things bouncing around in the trailer. After I got home I checked the air pressure in the tires and it was at 80 psi. Lowered it to 70 psi and its like a different trailer. Works for me.
handsome51
Explorer
Nov 20, 2014
You did not say what kind of hitch you have. I have a air safe 25K hitch that I use to pull my 2006 Carriage.As you already know,the trailer rides the roughest behind the wheels. We have a end table at the back of the trailer and the wife puts stuff on top of it . That does not have any anti skid stuff on them. Plus they are sitting on a piece of carpet that the wife has on top of the end table. And it does not have any thing to hold it on the end table. Nothing moves going down the road during normal driving. But if you have to slam on the brakes things are going to move. But the trailer just floats back their on the air safe hitch with four fire stone air bags. The trailer is not in a bind going down the road. And the truck is not in a bind going down the road. The wife made a comment when we first got the trailer and took a trip. She said you don't even know the trailer is back their.
They don't give air hitches away. But it is a one time buy and once you get past writing the check out. You'll love it. You invested a lot of money in the truck and trailer. So they should be worth the investment in a good hitch
Poppy_s_5th_Whe
Explorer
Nov 20, 2014
SkiSmuggs wrote:
No wonder my posts keep disappearing; we are posting in two different forums. LOL
I didn't say there were no problems, just that we have minimized them. If the SRE4000 would soften my trailer ride even more, it may be worthwhile.
I have the spec sheet, but am not going to lay in the snow and 25 degree temps to measure. Plenty of time for that in the spring as we are planning a late summer trip that should pass us by the MorRyde plant.

What pressure do you have those 16" tires at? I replaced my 15" Blow Max LRD with Maxxis LRE. So the old tires were at 65 lbs and, when I mentioned that I was running the Maxxis at 70, someone strongly suggested I run them at 80. But looking at tire load charts, it seems they should be pressured for the load they will carry. Methinks I would have a softer ride at 70 lbs and more load capacity than I had with the old tires. If you are running the 16" tires at 100 lbs, that may be part of your ride problem.

I forget where you are! We will be up there next fall for a visit. Anyway, I guess I wouldn't get under there in the snow either but after getting under mine I found I only have 1.75" of clearance and need (according to Mor/ryde) 3" minimum. If I decide I need to go to either the SRE3000 or the CRE4000 I will need to have my suspension altered.

I run my tires at 80 psi. How do I determine if I can run them any lower and would I really want to?
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
No wonder my posts keep disappearing; we are posting in two different forums. LOL
I didn't say there were no problems, just that we have minimized them. If the SRE4000 would soften my trailer ride even more, it may be worthwhile.
I have the spec sheet, but am not going to lay in the snow and 25 degree temps to measure. Plenty of time for that in the spring as we are planning a late summer trip that should pass us by the MorRyde plant.

What pressure do you have those 16" tires at? I replaced my 15" Blow Max LRD with Maxxis LRE. So the old tires were at 65 lbs and, when I mentioned that I was running the Maxxis at 70, someone strongly suggested I run them at 80. But looking at tire load charts, it seems they should be pressured for the load they will carry. Methinks I would have a softer ride at 70 lbs and more load capacity than I had with the old tires. If you are running the 16" tires at 100 lbs, that may be part of your ride problem.
Poppy_s_5th_Whe
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
SkiSmuggs wrote:
I have the MorRyde CRE3000 setup. Is there any advantage going to SRE4000 with the extra inch of travel?

Why if you're not having any issues? Lot's of pre-qualifications so get your tape measure out :)

For some reason I can't seem to copy the spec sheet in here or even provide a link but I'm sure you can find it on the Mor/ryde web page.

My problems are made worse by the fact I have such little clearance. I am now thinking about adding 2" lift blocks on my axles then going with either the CRE3000 or the SRE4000.

I'm really "over modding" this trailer.
SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
I have the MorRyde CRE3000 setup. Is there any advantage going to SRE4000 with the extra inch of travel?
C_Schomer
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
This is our first RK and it rides great. Nothing ever breaks and we can leave anything we want on the counters and nothing moves when on the road. Ours has springs with Morryde LRE equalizers plus shocks. I can tell you from a previous 5er... Changing to the right springs makes all the difference in the world. We had a center kitchen that would launch water jugs out of the sink, it rode so horrible. I actually went to heavier springs (by Dexters recommendation) added ezflex and replaced the old shocks. That fiver went from the absolute worst riding trailer, of any kind, I ever pulled, to one of the best. I'd take it to a spring shop, in a heartbeat! Craig

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