Im picking up a used Trailsaver BD3 and had a quick question on hooking/unhooking from those that have the same hitch. Before unhooking the fiver do you let the air out first? I have read that some do because then the hitch will 'shoot up' once the load is taken off and could possibly cause damage.Just looking at what others do.Thanks

Can't believe it "shoot up". It's the same airbag as many other things use. I wouldn't touch it. Just hitch and unhitch as usual,B.O.

I air mine down ,if you don't it will bang hard on the pin box.no harm done if you forget.

I have a BD3 I do not air it down.

I have a TS3 but the concept is the same. I never air mine down. I do raise the the pin until almost all the pressure is off before uncoupling. It takes a little longer but a very smooth let-go. When I hook up I raise the pin until the lube plates approach mid way on the angled hitch plate. I then back in and the bags compress somewhat and align the pin and the jaws perfectly. I'll add this as you may not get directions with your hitch. There are 3 positions on the hitch lever: Full forward (all red showing) is for pulling away from the trailer or unhitching. Center position (half red showing) is for backing the hitch onto the king pin and closing the jaws. Rear position (no red) is the locked tow position. Enjoy that hitch.

I had a BD3. I now have a TSLB. I usually air down. Not so much for unhitching. I don't want pressure when I hitch and pull test. If the test fails the plate will come up hard. Yes, I always pull test since the test once failed after hitching at an especially bad angle.

Trailsaver BD3 question | Good Sam Community

ReneeG
Explorer
May 21, 2017
Durb wrote:
. . . I'll go one better, an air hitch not only prevents trailer energy from reaching the truck but also keeps truck generated energy from reaching the trailer. A win-win.

And this is why they call it the TrailerSaver BD3.
rhagfo
Explorer III
May 20, 2017
Durb wrote:
I don't get the logic. Shocks and springs on the trailer axles are good but shocks and springs on the hitch are just masking the problem? They both dissipate energy created by a heavy trailer going over bumps. I'll go one better, an air hitch not only prevents trailer energy from reaching the truck but also keeps truck generated energy from reaching the trailer. A win-win.

If you read the last post on the previous page, the OP (AustinJenna) got a killer deal on the hitch, sounded like the 5er towed well this is just the icing on the cake!

I might consider one if I could afford the weight!
Durb
Explorer
May 20, 2017
I don't get the logic. Shocks and springs on the trailer axles are good but shocks and springs on the hitch are just masking the problem? They both dissipate energy created by a heavy trailer going over bumps. I'll go one better, an air hitch not only prevents trailer energy from reaching the truck but also keeps truck generated energy from reaching the trailer. A win-win.
rhagfo
Explorer III
May 20, 2017
austinjenna wrote:
Just wondering if you just got a killer deal on the hitch or were looking for a solution to a problem?
Looking at the 5er in your signature you have a somewhat small light 5er for your TV.
If you are trying to solve a towing issue like chucking, all the Trailsaver will do is mask the problem, the 5er is still back there beating it's self, the hitch is just masking you from it.

I have always thought the best practice is to correct the basic items that cause chucking first. This would be too light of pin, 5er not towing level, putting shocks on the 5er to control bounce, then once the chucking is at a minimum then go the the hitch, or pin box.

Russ

Well then looking forward to your first towing report, just how much smoother the ride is. I am sure that the most noticeable difference will be bridge transitions.
Russ

Nope I got a killer deal. I have had my reese hitch for the last 15 yrs and its been fine but have always been looking for the trailsaver because the hitch will stay with me rather than get a air pinbox that might or might not fit any new trailer I may get. Also from what I have always read everyone loves the hitch and the ride.
austinjenna
Explorer
May 20, 2017
Just wondering if you just got a killer deal on the hitch or were looking for a solution to a problem?
Looking at the 5er in your signature you have a somewhat small light 5er for your TV.
If you are trying to solve a towing issue like chucking, all the Trailsaver will do is mask the problem, the 5er is still back there beating it's self, the hitch is just masking you from it.

I have always thought the best practice is to correct the basic items that cause chucking first. This would be too light of pin, 5er not towing level, putting shocks on the 5er to control bounce, then once the chucking is at a minimum then go the the hitch, or pin box.

Russ

Nope I got a killer deal. I have had my reese hitch for the last 15 yrs and its been fine but have always been looking for the trailsaver because the hitch will stay with me rather than get a air pinbox that might or might not fit any new trailer I may get. Also from what I have always read everyone loves the hitch and the ride.
ljr
Nomad
May 20, 2017
ReneeG wrote:
We too have a BD3 and we never air down before hooking up and have not had a problem. The Holland Binkley head is secure when hitching is complete and the lever is in the 8 o'clock position. Not only does the hitch in the 8 o'clock position indicate it is in the secured position, but when hooking up an audible latching sound or click occurs. That's how we know and have never had a fail. One of the best hitches!

I used to believe all of that also. Then I hitched my TSLB up on an especially steep incline. With all of the Indicators you mention telling me all was well, the pull test failed.
ReneeG
Explorer
May 20, 2017
We too have a BD3 and we never air down before hooking up and have not had a problem. The Holland Binkley head is secure when hitching is complete and the lever is in the 8 o'clock position. Not only does the hitch in the 8 o'clock position indicate it is in the secured position, but when hooking up an audible latching sound or click occurs. That's how we know and have never had a fail. One of the best hitches!
rhagfo
Explorer III
May 20, 2017
austinjenna wrote:
Im picking up a used Trailsaver BD3 and had a quick question on hooking/unhooking from those that have the same hitch. Before unhooking the fiver do you let the air out first? I have read that some do because then the hitch will 'shoot up' once the load is taken off and could possibly cause damage.

Just looking at what others do.
___________________________________________________________________
2010 F350 CC Lariat 4x4 Short Bed
2011 Crusader 298BDS 5th Wheel
Reese 16K

Thanks

Just wondering if you just got a killer deal on the hitch or were looking for a solution to a problem?
Looking at the 5er in your signature you have a somewhat small light 5er for your TV.
If you are trying to solve a towing issue like chucking, all the Trailsaver will do is mask the problem, the 5er is still back there beating it's self, the hitch is just masking you from it.

I have always thought the best practice is to correct the basic items that cause chucking first. This would be too light of pin, 5er not towing level, putting shocks on the 5er to control bounce, then once the chucking is at a minimum then go the the hitch, or pin box.

Russ
austinjenna
Explorer
May 20, 2017
I should have mentioned that I always do a pull test
Durb
Explorer
May 19, 2017
Regarding the lube plate. The hitch head on your Trailer Saver has really fat jaws. I had also read about 1/4" lube plates being too thick so I bought a 1/8" plate from Hensley and used it on my initial hook up. The upper ridge of my kingpin was riding on top of the hitch jaws and was sliding around creating noise. The lube plate was not compressed at all. In my case I have to stack a 1/4" lube plate with a 1/8" one to make a thick 3/8" plate. This allows my hitch jaws to be centered in the kingpin groove and all pressure is on the lube plates. This is imperative. If your upper or lower kingpin ridges are contacting the hitch jaws then hooking and unhooking will be problematic and may reduce the life of the jaws. Once you get it dialed in using the hitch will be simple.

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