Transitioning to 1st Fifth Wheel

We have been full time RVing for 5 years in our 38' MH. We traded in out MH and Jeep to get a 40' Grand Design Solitude 384GK and for a truck it is a 2017 GMC 3500 dually CC diesel with a Trailer Saver 5th wheel hitch. I did a lot of research and found the pin weight of the 5r needs to have about 30% +- added to the weight once you get loaded. If you decide to go with a 350/3500 look into dual rear wheels its doesn't cost much more and the extra carrying capacity and stability is worth it. I know others will say that's to much truck but I like to make sure I'm pulling and stopping with enough truck.

let's throw a wrench into this: Many years ago i was in the same situation. Ready to retire...looking at 5ths for my "retirement vehicle". Then, at my RV dealer for a repair on my travel trailer, I discovered gasoline motorhomes. ("gassers").

For the same price as a properly equipped pickup to tow the 5th..and the 5th itself, wife and I both thought the motorhome would serve our needs better. it does...and we never looked at a 5th again (except if we ever decide to go more or less "seasonal" somewhere. Then....I'll buy the biggest and baddest, have the dealer deliver it.)

Whatever you choose...g'luck!

orggardn wrote:
Well, retirement is almost upon me (December if all goes well) and we're looking hard at a 5th wheel and a new tow rig to start things off right. Problem is, I'm not sure how to get started. I've towed multiple popups and a travel travel (+ tons of farm implements), never anything with an in bed hitch.

The big question is - "is there a good place to get educated on how to get started in the 5th wheel world?"

We've pick out a fiver, but need to know:
- how to match a tow vehicle to it
- how to select a hitch
- how to tow the darn thing (this really has me a bit skittish)

We're planning several "local" outings to get used to the rig and shake out some of the initial bugs. Then, head out for a couple of 4-6 week explorations.

FYI, specs for the unit we've picked out:
SHIPPING WEIGHT: 7035 LBS
CARRYING CAPACITY: 2965 LBS
HITCH: 1405 LBS
LENGTH: 28'11"
HEIGHT: 11'11"

I'd appreciate your pointing me in the right direction. I'm a good reader and a quick learner.......

IMO, a 250/2500 would handle this easily...BUT...speaking from experience, I'd opt for a 350/3500 SRW. Not much more money and gives you room to expand if you decide to upgrade to a larger FW in a year or two.

As for education, start here and read, read, read! :-) Use the search feature for any question you might have, and see if it's been answered.

Lyle

You've picked a nice size rig. 3/4 ton capable with a gas engine if you prefer, 10k gross weight, size accessible to almost any place you want to go. Make sure you get a truck with LT tires load range E. There are a lot of nice looking wheels on trucks with tires that won't carry a load. You'll love towing a 5er. So much easier to hookup. Like towing any trailer for the first time, a bit of practice in a lot just to get used to how it handles cause there all different.

You want to tow level but you need clearance between the rig and the bed sides. I shoot for a 5" min. Hitch head height is adjustable. Trailer pin height is adjustable. You can get a headache trying figure it all out.

Raising the trailer to get the level ride is where problems arise. My 5er came with a $86 option that allows for 3 different ride heights and I thank whoever ordered all the time. I've raised mine 2" and it worked fine. You can search "flipping the axles". You can have a someone with metal fabrication skills to remove the spring shackles, weld in a sub-frame of steel tubing and add back the shackles. All of this is just to raise the trailer so it's level and you have bed side clearance.

Consider a pin box with some cushioning mechanism. Some have air bag ride, or elastomer links they all help with the concrete road rebound.

Once your setup and on the road your gonna have a heck of time wiping that smile off your face.

orggardn wrote:
Jerry - the "nose up" issue. I've seen that before..... is there a "fix" for that? Or just the way it is with the newer, higher bed trucks?

There are several options, but either raising the FW with a subframe, or other means, or buying a truck that is not so tall, is about it. Some FW/truck combos work better than others, doing some measuring before purchase can be helpful.

Yes, as you have noticed, some just tow them as/is.

Jerry

I've taken the same ownership route you are and I made a few mistakes. Chucking is a phenomena that I learned about right away. Like a travel trailer fifth wheels generate forces that are transferred to the truck. On a travel trailer the hitch is about axle high so the forces are bouncing forces, up and down. On a 5er the hitch point is high so the forces are a combination of bouncing and chucking energy, fore and aft. Many things enter into the chucking equation such as length, polar mass, and the trailer's tendency to rotate due to its layout. Unfortunately, short trailers will have a greater percentage of chucking forces compared to bouncing forces than a longer unit. Bottom line, your short light weight trailer may generate more chucking than a long heavy one even when hooked up to a substantial truck. It is hard to know without trying it so since you are settled on your trailer I would suggest trying to tow it with a buddy's truck and see where you stand. There are ways to fix the chucking issue but it would be less expensive if done from the outset. This is based on personal experience. Not to be alarmist but you just can't tell how a trailer is going to tow until you hook it up.

Make sure your trailer will fit your intended truck from a height standpoint. It would be a shame to have to modify it right out of the gate. Good luck.

Jerry - the "nose up" issue. I've seen that before..... is there a "fix" for that? Or just the way it is with the newer, higher bed trucks?

I have a fifth-wheel basically in your weight range you posted. I have a Dodge Ram 2500HD, long bed. 5.7 Hemi. It tows it great. I picked up a used hitch, 15,000 weight rating and installation kit. Works fine. The long bed in the 2500 is good, but a normal size box short bed would also work with a slider hitch. I would think anything in the 3/4 ton range would be good with a trailer tow package on it for what you are looking at. I am solo and the hooking up and unhooking is easy. Good Luck.

You may want to check the RV faq. (link is also above).

A FW is easy to tow, but backs a little different, due to the hitch point over the axle. Any 3/4 T truck will handle that FW, but if there is a chance of a larger model in the future, a 1T may be a better choice.

Be aware....some newer trucks sit quite tall, so you may get into a towing nose-high issue with some FWs. Not good...towing a FW level is best, a little nose-high is okay.

Good luck with your new experience!

Jerry