Unhook for quick overnight stop

ependydad wrote:

Allworth wrote:
If I try to drive off with the umbilical disconnected, my P-3 starts flashing all kinds of bright red "Trailer Not Connected" warnings every time I touch the brake (note spelling) pedal.

Another plus for the P-3 controllers.

How does it know that there is a trailer back there?

Good question. The ITBC (integrated trailer brake controller) in my Ram flashes "Trailer Disconnected" warnings on the EVIC (electronic vehicle information center) screen when I unplug the umbilical with the engine idling - UNTIL I cycle the ignition key to the "off" position. The next time I turn on the ignition, there's no way the ITBC knows if there's a trailer sitting on the hitch or not - it can only see if the umbilical is plugged or unplugged. If it's plugged in, there's a trailer; if it isn't, there's not.

Rusty

Allworth wrote:
If I try to drive off with the umbilical disconnected, my P-3 starts flashing all kinds of bright red "Trailer Not Connected" warnings every time I touch the brake (note spelling) pedal.

Another plus for the P-3 controllers.

How does it know that there is a trailer back there?

If I try to drive off with the umbilical disconnected, my P-3 starts flashing all kinds of bright red "Trailer Not Connected" warnings every time I touch the brake (note spelling) pedal.

Another plus for the P-3 controllers.

48ford wrote:
Instead of unplugging how about adding an ignition triggered continuous duty solenoid to the 12 volt wire to the 7 pin plug. Turn off truck, turn off power to/from RV.

I may just unplug

Instead of unplugging how about adding an ignition triggered continuous duty solenoid to the 12 volt wire to the 7 pin plug. Turn off truck, turn off power to/from RV.

eichacsj wrote:


Yes we have been un-level many times, I maybe ignorant no-one never told me the fridge does not work if not perfectly level, in all my years and TT's I've never had a problem, our last TT we had for 13 years and only stayed in a structured CG a hand full of times. Now that I see this post I probably will have an issue :-( lol.

Both Norcold and Dometic address the issue in their Fridge Manuals
Norcold gives amount of degrees
Dometic just makes a statement about being 'reasonably' level
(If comfortable to walk/sleep then close enough to level)
Atwood (new players in RV fridges) addresses the issue with a built in tilt sensor that shuts down Fridge.

Issue happens when pulling off road onto shoulder where rig is slanted, parking where rig is tilted and going to shop or eat in restaurant, sitting in slope driveway getting ready for trip etc.
Rig is off-level but no one is using it so nobody thinks about it ---fridge is dependent on gravity flow (see those larger tubes that are slanted downward) off-level can disrupt that gravity flow then coolant available to perk tube is restricted and overheating happens.

What about when in transit?
Rocking/rolling/bouncing keeps coolant flowing so not an issue.

When traveling coast to coast we stop in paring lots (leave the rest stops for the truckers) for dinner, bio breaks, sleeping, etc. NEVER level or stabilize, never unhook, always tell the business we are out there and we buy something we need. Note my signature we have a 2001 Silverado and even week-end camping I may or may not unplug the TV. The battery does disengage with the key off. Tested with meter.

Yes we have been un-level many times, I maybe ignorant no-one never told me the fridge does not work if not perfectly level, in all my years and TT's I've never had a problem, our last TT we had for 13 years and only stayed in a structured CG a hand full of times. Now that I see this post I probably will have an issue :-( lol.

John&Joey wrote:


Yep, hard to believe RV.Net would view him as anything but a wealth of knowledge, pleasantry, and open mindedness on all the different RV's and their designs.

So what was the verdict on the conspiracy theory on why he couldn't post. Was the multimillionaire owner of CW truly afraid of what he may say? did his entertainment value just got old, like a biscuit and was discard? or was it a computer error on the users side stirring up the pot and watching what happened?

According to those in the know......computer glitch (selective as only 2 of us were affected) :H

valhalla360 wrote:
The only thing I would add is in the morning go thru as if you are hooking up and do everything. Way too easy to hop into the truck and forget to hook the power cord back up or worse, the landing gear is down. It's when we cut corners is usually when we make stupid mistakes.

I agree to this wholeheartedly. After *every* stop, I do a walk around the truck + trailer looking high and looking low. I also double-check that the hitch is properly closed/handle latched.

Every. single. time.

(That said, apparently I need to do it after turning my lights on AND I need to start checking my umbilical cord as I got flagged down on my way out of Vegas by someone telling me I had no lights on.)

2112 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

John&Joey wrote:


If you're worried about the fridge being out of level then all I got to say is I would be more nervous about the rig rolling away because you found one extremely crappy parking lot to stay in, and a much better one is just a few miles down the road. Fridges came a long way since the 70's when it comes to lifespan.
.

Rig rolling away.....?????
Wheel chocks...first ON/Last OFF
Trailer should have chocks BEFORE unhooking trailer every time

RV absorption fridges have come along way........????
Only with the bells & whistles
The cooling unit tubing has gotten thinner therefore many cracked tubes/ruined cooling units on the newer fridges.
Lots of cooling unit replacements going on with modern rv fridges OR swapping out to residential fridges

Many, many older fridges are still out there running just fine because the tubing is more robust.

mike-uswest wrote:
I do unhook the cord, because my brakes on the trailer evidently check in about every minute, and it makes a very quiet click. I can only hear it if I am right by the brake on the trailer, but my wife can hear it and can't sleep.

Your 'charge/power' circuit on that 2003 Dodge is hot all the time so you should unplug your trailer cord BUT that your brake circuit should only be getting voltage thru your cord when you use the truck brakes or use the manual lever on brake controller (or via emergency break away switch which is thru trailer battery system only).

So you should not be hearing any 'click' at trailer brakes especially one that is repetitive. Power is ON or OFF. Magnets are energized or not. But that is only when brakes are applied.

You should investigate HOW that is happening.

I am SSSOOOOO Happy you're back OB. Thanks for everything.

Yep, hard to believe RV.Net would view him as anything but a wealth of knowledge, pleasantry, and open mindedness on all the different RV's and their designs.

So what was the verdict on the conspiracy theory on why he couldn't post. Was the multimillionaire owner of CW truly afraid of what he may say? did his entertainment value just got old, like a biscuit and was discard? or was it a computer error on the users side stirring up the pot and watching what happened?