using a 30 amp splitter

You may have 120/240V at the pedestal. If so you could install a 50A plug and a 30A dual CB on the 30A wires. This would give you a 30A 120/240V... circuit. If so the power problem is solved.

Yes you are limited. May not be able to run 2 AC's for example. AC and MW probably OK but no other big load. HW, hair dryers are big loads.

I ran my 50 amp park model on a 30 amp circuit for 10 years. I could run one A/C and either the electric water heater or microwave along with the A/C, but not both. Just wasn't a big deal at all.

B.O.

so worse case scenario...what happens if I can only plug into a 30a plug? Am I just limited as to what I can turn on at one time? Really appreciate all the info, this all has been very helpful to us RV virgins!

allcool wrote:
Each leg of a 50amp rv service can supply up 25-30 amps for a combined amp draw of 50a, 120v.
This can be measured on the common neutral leg with an amp probe.

This part is incorrect. Each leg of a 50A service can supply 50A or 100A at 120V total.

For 50A the neutral will carry the difference of the current on the 2 hot legs. To determine the current on 50A you need to measure the current on each hot leg.

If you are plugged into a 20A or 30A plug with adapters to 50A then the neutral will reflect the total current.

Note: The reason it's called 50A service is because the naming standard is to use the highest voltage which is 240V. So it's a 50A 120/240V... service. This isn't a RV thing as this type of service is very common for a home range, etc.

kelly4hand wrote:
This is a private site, with one pole and 4 - 30 amp plugs. We will be the only camper plugged in. Owner states" just need to put bigger wiring to make it 50 amp"....but he is honesty quite old...lol so going to have an electrician look at it...

Our 50 amp RV's use 2 legs of 120v, or actually its 240v being supplied but not being used as a 240 service.
Our gennys also use the same type service, thats why we have 2 breakers on our RV genny service. Each beaker protects one 120v leg of the 240 volt service coming from the genny.

Each leg of a 50amp rv service can supply up 25-30 amps for a combined amp draw of 50a, 120v.
This can be measured on the common neutral leg with an amp probe.

Just be sure your cheater cord is rated for 50 amps thru its common neutral leg... Since the neutral leg is not protected by a circuit beaker. Neutral leg wire in the cheater cord should be at least #8 wire, #6 is better.

So bottom line for you, get a multi-meter and find the 2 outlets that have separate legs of 120v.Your meter test leads will need to be in 2 different outlets, measuring the hot wires between both outlets.
You need to get a 240v reading from both hot legs read together. If you are only getting 120v then both outlets are on the same leg and will not give you the 50 amps you want. Keep trying different outlet combinations till your meter reads 240v, and then use these 2 outlets with the cheater cord. This will give you 2 separate legs of 120v, combined for 50 amp 120v capability.

jmo

This is a private site, with one pole and 4 - 30 amp plugs. We will be the only camper plugged in. Owner states" just need to put bigger wiring to make it 50 amp"....but he is honesty quite old...lol so going to have an electrician look at it...

CA Traveler wrote:
So you can change the site electrical w/o any problems?

Scratching my head on that also...........

kelly4hand

Is this on private property (like yours or families)?
Or is this in a CG?

Power pole with 200A panel with 4 30A receptacles sounds like CG with back to back/side to side site (4 rvs all backed in) and hooking up to 30A power.

Besides.........30A is 3 wires (1 Hot, 1 Neutral and 1 Ground)
50A would require another wire pulled minimum if other wiring is correct gauge and a 50A double pole service circuit breaker (2 hots, 1 Neutral, 1 Ground)

:H

So you can change the site electrical w/o any problems?

It's 2015 cyclone 4100....it has 50amp service ....