Forum Discussion

AFox2012's avatar
AFox2012
Explorer
Sep 02, 2017

Water Damage, sub-floor

First off, we love our Arctic Fox 2012 27-5L. But after 5 years on the road, we had an issue we really should not have had. One of the factory installed Flair-It PEX fittings came apart. Because we were not in the coach at the time, we had full city water pressure water flow into the sub-floors and belly of the coach for around 30 minutes before an RV park person turned off the main water.

To make a long story shorter, the PEX fitting failed because at the factory someone decided to NOT use the correct compression nut on the Flair-it fitting. Instead they used a worm-screw hose clamp to attach the water line. Who knows why. The compression nut is actually faster to install and costs less than a stainless steel hose clamp. Anyway, that “alternative” decision by someone on the production line has now caused several thousand dollars of damage. And, brought our Fall travel plans to an end.

Check your fittings. If they use hose clamps change them out to the correct way before you too have a failure. Pic #1 shows the correct way to install. Pic #2 & #3 show the wrong way the factory installed.


  • ....and some people think I'm nuts because whenever we are away from the trailer...even for a short time - I shut off the water at the spigot.

    Agree, sorry to hear that.
  • And people think I'm nuts because all my water goes in the tank then only gets pumped when we turn the switch on. RV's..........sorry to hear that
  • Sorry to say NW did install the right way. Please don't take this the wrong way. Been talked about on AF forum a bunch. NW says they follow the water pumps(sure-flow)install directions and they say they will keep using the flexible stuff. (which I think is bull). I only made it 1,000 miles when ours popped off. (But I don't use the city water connection anyways, so I didn't have and endless supply of water coming in or a steady drip over time). I tried to get the flair-it connection to work but can't get fitting over "flexible" braded line. Next I tried "shark bite" fittings. One of the lines I couldn't get a drip to stop. My next step which I haven't done yet is to go to stainless steel branded line. Also their screw clamps aren't too good either. I bought better screw clamps and used lock tight until I get a fixed like I want. So in mean time I make sure screws clamps are tight. I use a water regulator that is 35 psi. And I tested the 35psi with psi with an air compressor to make sure it worked like it was supposed to.
    Sorry it happened...if you find good fix please post.

    Sure-flow install quote on about all of their pumps about "flexible" hose
    http://shurflo.com/images/files/RV_Product_Manuals/Fresh-Water-Pumps/911-585.pdf

    Use 50-mesh strainer minimum at the inlet side of the pump. Use flexible hose on inlet

    http://shurflo.com/images/files/RV_Product_Manuals/Fresh-Water-Pumps/911-1008.pdf
  • We were in Branson MO one time and the 5th/W next to us the water was coming out of the basement area. I went and shut the water off at the post of cost, but from then on I always shut the water off at the post because you just,just never know.
  • Good lesson for others...if you aren't in the RV the water is off...pump or city.
  • Also, periodically check the flair it fittings for tightness. Many a time I've had to retighten those fittings over the course of the years.
  • Having ripped up my motorhome floor a few times, I feel your pain. This last time I did it, due to a funky connection on the water pump, I used both wood and uni-strut steel as my cross members. No doubt it was hard, labor intensive work but I know now I don't have any soft spots in the floor any longer. Good Luck!