Water Heater bypass valve.

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design.
The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank.
Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water.
When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap


Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve.

Thanks .And I think I blew it , I took off one of the fitting ,and from what I saw as said on my previous post those fittings are not intended to come off that valve comes with a barbed fitting to hook the lines to .

What you are saying makes sense although my last two fifth wheels have had the same valve. I must of been extremely lucky on the previous one, because the way I did it today is how I have done it for the past 13 years. 12 years on the previous fifth wheel , and last year on this one.

What I will do is try to reconnect that line ,and see if It leaks when I pressurize the system as you have said to see if I can get that bypass valve to work correctly. It will be no fun to try ,and replace that valve where thy have on the back of the convience center, its a bear to get to. I have the basement panels off ,but still with all the water lines its a messy bunch of lines in there .