ACZL wrote:
schlep1967 wrote:
Since you have the lines off an easy way to check for the check valve is to stick a screw driver in the top connection of the water heater. If it hits something solid the check valve is there. If you only have one valve the check valve needs to be there and be operating to winterize.
See this video Replace RV check valve
Will the check valve be on the hot water line or cold? I removed the cold one only and didn't find one as I mentioned above. Sadly, because I am in a rush situation, I had to do the Camco temp bypass line (attaches to both hot/cold lines to water tank). Was able to get the rig filled w/ antifreeze yet not hot water tank. Did rinse it out good as it did have AF in it. Put everything back together and "mouse proofed" it so it's all set to go tmrw into storage barn. I will however, have to take things back apart in spring to re-do what I did this week. Upon doing so, I will take more time on water tank to check for valves and replace in need be.
It will be on the top/hot out line.
How it works - Your single valve will be on the cold in line. Turning the valve stops the water from going into the bottom of the water heater and forces it into the bypass line. The bypass line connects directly to the top/hot out line from the water heater. The check valve is attached directly to the tank on this line. When it is operating correctly, water can only flow one direction. Out of the water heater.
These check valves commonly fail. I'm on my 3rd one in 10 years. When mine fail the valve comes out of the body and into the water line and blocks all hot water flow. My temp fix while camping is to open up the line and remove that piece. Put the line back together and everything functions again until I get a new check valve. It is possible the prior owner did the same thing and never got back to replacing the check valve.