Water Heater bypass valve.
Went out to winterize the fifth wheel today ,turned the bypass valve to bypass, turned the water inlet connection to winterize . hooked up the short hose to the inlet connection , then into the gallon...
Forum Discussion
SDcampowneroperator wrote:
There are 2 types of water heater bypass systems, the 3 valve - 1 each for in, out and bypass between the in and out. A fool proof design.
The other is a 1 valve bypass to inlet that then switches flow to bypass and depends on a auto check valve at outlet to close to prevent inflow to the cold water heater tank.
Failures are rare of manually operated valves, check valves do need a good slam of pressure to close. Build up your air or pump pressure to maximum before bleeding the water.
When pumping the pink be certain all valves are in winterizing position ( CLOSED) Run the pump until it pressurizes the system to cut off, then go- slowly- to each tap nearest to farthest , 2 times around allowing the pump or compressor to rebuild pressure to each tap
Edit, I think you pumped a/f too soon, without enough pressure to close the spring operated check valve.
The check valve is spring loaded closed (closed is normal position) and does not require water pressure to close it. When there is no demand on the hot water system, water pressure is equal on both sides of the check valve and it remains closed. When a tap is opened, the pressure in the hot water side drops below the water heater tank pressure allowing it to overcome the check valve spring and allowing water to flow.
They generally fail by gunking up with deposits and stick closed. However I am sure they can stick open the same way.
