Hot Water Heater Bypass Valves

I would get a "Sharkbite" valve from a big box home improvement store. Just cut out the old one and push on the new.

Take it to any hardware store - nothing special about the plumbing.

Those by-pass valves are not RV brand specific. Most RV dealer would have a direct replacement.

Shark bite fittings work very well, on new tubing, but cannot be removed without cutting the pipe. I would stay with the style you have in case the tubing has been deformed by the prior fittings, in which case other style fittings may not seal.
You didnt say where the valve is leaking, or what type. Give us a heads up?

Mark and Linda wrote:
I was de winterizing my Puma today...I noticed one of my bypass valves at the hot water heater leaking. I have it out, would anyone know of a good place to get a replacement valve? I have been trying to research the numbers on the valve that I removed. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Any 90 degree valve should work, I notice your puma is a 2009 so you'll most likely need to use a shark bite fitting or you'll need some pex clamps and a pex crimper, regular hose clamps will leak.... I'm guessing this is the bottom valve going to your hot water heater?

Yep, take it to any store that stocks plumbing accessories.

And why are you heating hot water! ;)

dodge guy wrote:
And why are you heating hot water! ;)

Sounds like it's only leaking when parked on his driveway.

If you can, buy a "full flow" valve. Some supply side valves are not full flow.

Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

Mark and Linda wrote:
Been reading the replies, got her fixed this morning. I went to Home Depot got a Pex Straight Valve, 1/2 inch on both ends, clamps, bought a clamper...more blue pex pipe than I needed and installed it. No leaks...I filled up the hot water heater, from my fresh water tank and checked it. I put water to the system from my water hose...everything works. I now have a Pex Cutter, Clamps and Clamper, plus 4 feet of blue pex pipe, just waiting to be reused. I might add, when I cut the old valve loose, I used my Dreml to cut the clamps and part of the pipe..being careful not to get into the other plastic fittings. My old valve was leaking from the bottom...had a rubber seal that protruded out. I am glad that I noticed it now...than later. Total cost: 77 $$ with my military discount.

I ended up with pretty much the same result... Ive learned the reason for failure was that I drained and bypassed the HWH before I opened the low point drains, which left a small amount of water near the valve, which damaged it over the winter, since then I make sure to drain low point valves when I empty the HWH, then bypass the valves