Weird Heater Issue
We have a 2012 Durango 325RL, and overall have had no real issues. But this one is really annoying. We're still under warranty, so guess when this trip is over, it's back to the dealer. Ok, this is...
Forum Discussion
I have a 2000 Thor 26GT with a Suburban furnace, SF-25. After I took the trailer on a rather bumpy 10 mile gravel road in the wilderness, the furnace didn't ignite.
It was running fine when connected to AC power back at the RV park. But that weekend, it just blow cold air (did not try to ignite at all). It was 39 that night, needless to say there was plenty of cold air... Battery voltage was fine (~12.5V) , propane tanks full, new regulator too.
Back at the RV park, I plugged it in and it operated fine (~13.5V). I thought perhaps the sail switch or the blower motor was the issue. When AC power is on, the furnace fan would slightly speed up and then ignite fine. But on battery alone it would not cycle. There was plenty of air flow either way, so I didn't consider the blower motor failure. A month later and next trip when I arrived, even the generator to simulate AC power didn't work and it was 45 in the RV that night...
Taking out the furnace is a little hassle, and I found everything was pretty clean. I blew out some dust out of the fan cage/switch area anyway. Looking at the sail switch, there is a thin metal lever arm that extends from the switch into the chamber. Moving the lever arm, I noticed that it took excessive travel for it to engage, almost at the limit of travel. So I carefully re-bend the arm "straight" so that it took less travel for the switch to engage (click). It fired right up when I reinstalled the furnace both battery and AC power.
So my observations were that perhaps the blower motor is running slower than new, (doubtful because it blows plenty strong), or after 13 years and bouncing around on that road the sail switch level arm sagged to far to engage the switch, which when adjusted a little did make it work again. At least for now, until I order a new sail switch.
Tonight, off to the woods again, suppose to be around 55 tonight so...
It was running fine when connected to AC power back at the RV park. But that weekend, it just blow cold air (did not try to ignite at all). It was 39 that night, needless to say there was plenty of cold air... Battery voltage was fine (~12.5V) , propane tanks full, new regulator too.
Back at the RV park, I plugged it in and it operated fine (~13.5V). I thought perhaps the sail switch or the blower motor was the issue. When AC power is on, the furnace fan would slightly speed up and then ignite fine. But on battery alone it would not cycle. There was plenty of air flow either way, so I didn't consider the blower motor failure. A month later and next trip when I arrived, even the generator to simulate AC power didn't work and it was 45 in the RV that night...
Taking out the furnace is a little hassle, and I found everything was pretty clean. I blew out some dust out of the fan cage/switch area anyway. Looking at the sail switch, there is a thin metal lever arm that extends from the switch into the chamber. Moving the lever arm, I noticed that it took excessive travel for it to engage, almost at the limit of travel. So I carefully re-bend the arm "straight" so that it took less travel for the switch to engage (click). It fired right up when I reinstalled the furnace both battery and AC power.
So my observations were that perhaps the blower motor is running slower than new, (doubtful because it blows plenty strong), or after 13 years and bouncing around on that road the sail switch level arm sagged to far to engage the switch, which when adjusted a little did make it work again. At least for now, until I order a new sail switch.
Tonight, off to the woods again, suppose to be around 55 tonight so...
