I have a 2001 Dodge Cummins with auto transmission and I want to add an exhaust brake. I would like input as to which brand is the best to go with. I will need it for high Colorado mountain passes pulling about 10,000 lbs.:@

Whichever brand you go with (Jacobs, BD and PacBrake are a few of your options), you're going to have to make some provision to lock up your torque converter when the exhaust brake is active. Otherwise, you're going to get little or no retarding and high transmission temperatures from the fluid shear in the unlocked converter when the exhaust brake is being used.This is the reason that Dodge did not authorize use of the Mopar/Jacobs brake with the 47RE automatic transmissions of the 2nd generation trucks. (Our 2002 3500 dually had the NV5600 6-speed manual transmission - I used the Mopar/Jacobs exhaust brake on it and can recommend it highly.)There are various aftermarket sources for the torque converter lockup device you'll need. Check with your e-brake supplier, and they should be able to either supply it or point you to someone who can.Rusty

Being over weight by about 2000# on GCWR you will definitely benefit from an EB.I have a US Gear 'D-Celerator' EB.It is as simple as they get. Installs in exhaust just after turbo elbow.Uses 12V DC thru a HD solenoid to close 4" butterfly ,,,, has a 2" modulating bypass butterfly to control backpressure.Electronic control box installs under dash with an ON/OFF push button that is sticky taped to any spot on dash with a paddle switch on accelerator pedal.Turn ON (activates control box) and when you lift foot off accelerator pedal paddle switch makes up....EB closesWith Tow/Haul mode ON and EB engaged it will hold 45-50 mph on steep grade Have read about some problems with it......bushing seizing, EB sticking closed but in 8 yrs. have not had ANY issues. I think some of those issues are do to owners NOT allowing EB to self test.When you turn ignition ON the EB will auto cycle .... this helps keep butterfly valve from sooting up and keeps bushing/shaft movement free.If you 'blip' the accelerator pedal when you turn ignition ON it will cancel the auto cycle/self test. Do that a lot and soot can build up.I let mine do the auto cycle everytime.Plus I have EB ON a lot..whether towing or not so it gets used routinely.

Just to avoid confusion, the 3rd generation 5.9L Ram above uses a 48RE automatic transmission. The ECMs and PCMs of the 3rd generation trucks are different than the 2nd generation trucks with the 47RE (for instance, there's no Tow/Haul mode in a 2nd generation truck, just OD on/off.) I reiterate that a torque converter lockup device is required with the 47RE. If the US Gear module referred to above provides that torque converter control function along with exhaust brake control, that's great, but please confirm that with your vendor.Rusty

I had a BD exhaust brake on a '96 3500 DRW NV4500. No issues with it. My current '03 Dodge/Cummins hs the Jacobs exhaust brake as part of the new truck deal. Its also been flawless in 265k miles. The Jacobs uses a inline mechanical vacuum pump for the brake that requires a much longer serpentine belt. If I had a used Cummins I would go with the Pacbrake PRXB. It has a bit more braking at lower RPMs and it comes with a remote air compressor for the brake that can be used for other purposes. Whatever brand you choose work with the factory sales folks. As Rusty mentioned you will need some thing like the "pressureloc" (BD power product) ....keeps the TC clutch locked for more braking performance. The tech folks can help you with what you will need.

I didn't know either for my 2001 with AUTO 47re. We did across a retired Cummins engineer that did a lot of work between Chrysler and Cummins before he retired. We did go with BD after he pointed out the maintenance "required" on Pac Brake and also digging around TDR's forum and several diesel forums. Pac brake was better in several areas according to him. Cost was one of them If I recall right. But overall we thought BD was better.Perfectly happy, but that is after getting "what they cost" out of my mind. Totally too much money for those things, that is until you get 1/2 down a good size hill and your ABS light comes on. We went from Seattle to LA and not use regular brakes (trailer is around 8,500) on any grades. Not that I-5 has any really big grades, I think 7% is most. But been on a lot of other grades that exhaust brake and regular brakes we're necessary. Sure is nice to have exhaust brake. No wonder the new ones come with them.But here is what I'm not happy with. No big deal, just passing it on.-Cool down period, bit hard to remember at first, to shut of switch to exhaust brake before you park. EGT's don't go below 4 or 5K when exhaust brake is on. So I usually shut off switch when I get off the freeway. -Engine noise is now even louder than what is already too darn loud.-There are 2 brass plugs on the flange. One plug is for temp sensor and other is for testing backpressure. The casting design of flange is over 20 years old according to BD and very few brake downs because of cracked or broken flange. Very strong design but I had to call them because bigger plug vibrated out. Burned a hole in the weather stripping just above the trans dip stick tube, about size of quarter. But it sounded much, much worse at the time, my wife had a horrified look and death grip on door handle. Funny now but wasn't then, believe me. So make sure brass plugs are tight after you get it installed. There aren't to many lock tite type materials that holds up to 1200 degrees on the market. So if I recall right, 12 psi on torque wrench is what BD told me, they also told me they get maybe 2 dozen calls a year with same question of brass plugs coming loose. And don't use anything except brass, rust factor. BD was perfectly honest saying they're QC is supposed to double check the plugs before unit is put into box to ship. Anyways after an oil change I give the plugs a little tug to make they're tight. (side note about 47re) The retired Cummins engineer also brought to my attention that I have 3 errors in my owner manual. (little did I know) All 3 errors conflict each other about servicing the 47re when you tow with it. He said that he "lost the war about trans service behind a bigger torque engine" and the trans was Chryslers not Cummins. He said Chrysler's view at the time, was more servicing makes it harder to compete against other OEM's who don't have as much maintenance. Also interesting to me was owners manuals are to protect OEM's behind more so than the owner. Gives OEM's a chance to get out of much $$$ as possible. They probably knew the 47re was junk when they made it.

Which Exhaust Brake? | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Sep 25, 2015
Being over weight by about 2000# on GCWR you will definitely benefit from an EB.

I have a US Gear 'D-Celerator' EB.
It is as simple as they get. Installs in exhaust just after turbo elbow.
Uses 12V DC thru a HD solenoid to close 4" butterfly ,,,, has a 2" modulating bypass butterfly to control backpressure.

Electronic control box installs under dash with an ON/OFF push button that is sticky taped to any spot on dash with a paddle switch on accelerator pedal.

Turn ON (activates control box) and when you lift foot off accelerator pedal paddle switch makes up....EB closes

With Tow/Haul mode ON and EB engaged it will hold 45-50 mph on steep grade

Have read about some problems with it......bushing seizing, EB sticking closed but in 8 yrs. have not had ANY issues. I think some of those issues are do to owners NOT allowing EB to self test.
When you turn ignition ON the EB will auto cycle .... this helps keep butterfly valve from sooting up and keeps bushing/shaft movement free.
If you 'blip' the accelerator pedal when you turn ignition ON it will cancel the auto cycle/self test. Do that a lot and soot can build up.

I let mine do the auto cycle everytime.
Plus I have EB ON a lot..whether towing or not so it gets used routinely.
RustyJC
Explorer
Sep 25, 2015
Whichever brand you go with (Jacobs, BD and PacBrake are a few of your options), you're going to have to make some provision to lock up your torque converter when the exhaust brake is active. Otherwise, you're going to get little or no retarding and high transmission temperatures from the fluid shear in the unlocked converter when the exhaust brake is being used.

This is the reason that Dodge did not authorize use of the Mopar/Jacobs brake with the 47RE automatic transmissions of the 2nd generation trucks. (Our 2002 3500 dually had the NV5600 6-speed manual transmission - I used the Mopar/Jacobs exhaust brake on it and can recommend it highly.)

There are various aftermarket sources for the torque converter lockup device you'll need. Check with your e-brake supplier, and they should be able to either supply it or point you to someone who can.

Rusty

Forum Discussion

Which Exhaust Brake?

12 Replies

About Fifth Wheel Group

Related Content

Exhaust brake quit working

Exhaust brake not working

Exhaust Brake

Exhaust Brake

Ford 2021 exhaust brake.