your thoughts on hitch jaws

One other thing I have learned about a 4-way pivot Reese Hitch. Do not use a long shank lock on the release handle. Under the right circumstances the hitch can pivot and the lock can push the release handle up. We came up a hill and made a hard left. This pivoted the hitch hard to the driver’s side. The base of the lock hit the leg and pushed the release latch up. Trailer stayed hitched, but no more long shank locks.
We have had this 16K Select since 04 and the mentioned issue above has been the only one. When we buy a new truck we will most likely replace this hitch, the new DRW trucks all have tow ratings above 16K.

Rich&Mar wrote:
I had a hyjacker hitch before and when it locked a solid steel bar would slide across locking the king pin. I am installing a reese 16k now that has two "jaws" that come around the king pin leaving the split between the two right in the middle of the king pin where all the pressure of pulling would be. I know it must be safe and strong but the bar idea just seems better to me. Your thoughts.

In 2006 when I bought my first 5th wheel. I spent the money and bought a 25k air safe hitch that has the binkley holland head. I was told that when I latch on to my 5th wheel and then grab the release leaver. If when I try to move it all I have is the 1/8" slack in the pins. It is not coming loose.

22 years with Reese jaws and no problems. They snap past center so the harder the trucks pulls, the more pressure keeping them closed. That's a good thing cuz I had a hard time getting into the habit of locking the release handle! Made many trips with the handle unlocked. Craig

rhagfo wrote:

BillB3857 wrote:
Test #1... Interlace your fingers, then point the index fingers away from you. Hold a pencil between the two index fingers. Have someone pull the pencil in the direction you are pointing.

Test #2... Interlace you fingers, then extend one index finger. Place a pencil against you knuckles and wrap the extended finger around the pencil Have someone pull the pencil away.

You decide.

Test #3 ... Interlace your fingers, then point the index fingers away from you. Hold a pencil between the two index fingers. Have someone pull the pencil in the direction AWAY FROM you are pointing. This is how Reese jaws work!

Reese doesn't require "Cocking" just return the locking handle to the latched position once you unhitch. Jaws are closed, then just back in to the hitch, jaws open and snap shut, you can do a Pull test right then not going anywhere.

Way too many people over think the hitching process.

Thanks for your insight on the Reese Dual Jaw set up Russ. You helped me understand this hitch better about a year ago. Now it's my preferred design. (After the handle modification)

Thanks!

Jeremiah

BillB3857 wrote:
Test #1... Interlace your fingers, then point the index fingers away from you. Hold a pencil between the two index fingers. Have someone pull the pencil in the direction you are pointing.

Test #2... Interlace you fingers, then extend one index finger. Place a pencil against you knuckles and wrap the extended finger around the pencil Have someone pull the pencil away.

You decide.

Test #3 ... Interlace your fingers, then point the index fingers away from you. Hold a pencil between the two index fingers. Have someone pull the pencil in the direction AWAY FROM you are pointing. This is how Reese jaws work!

Reese doesn't require "Cocking" just return the locking handle to the latched position once you unhitch. Jaws are closed, then just back in to the hitch, jaws open and snap shut, you can do a Pull test right then not going anywhere.

Way too many people over think the hitching process.

The J type latch on the Pullrite's have been very reliable.

Sliding bar isn't very common these days. While it is very reliable I found they have much worse slop as they make contact only in a single small spot. Some have bolts to help take up that slop but not as well as other hitch types.

Others have mentioned the main problem with the Reese jaw type hitches.

Operator error.

The sliding bar style hitches are somewhat better for novices, just because the learning curve for using them correctly is so much smaller than say learning to use the Reese hitch correctly.

And the Hijacker style sliding bar does have a slack take up bolt, so the slop in the hitch is eliminated.

All that said, my next hitch will be the B&W Companion. I've already got the turnover ball goooseneck hitch in my new truck, so may as well get the fiver hitch that goes with it.

No matter which style you select, always do a pull test before raising the landing gear to assure you are correctly latched and ready to tow.

Test #1... Interlace your fingers, then point the index fingers away from you. Hold a pencil between the two index fingers. Have someone pull the pencil in the direction you are pointing.

Test #2... Interlace you fingers, then extend one index finger. Place a pencil against you knuckles and wrap the extended finger around the pencil Have someone pull the pencil away.

You decide.

I put some vertical white fingernail polish stripes on the closed jaws so I can peak from behind and see if the jaws are closed. Works perfectly.