Septic Tank For Fulltime

What’s wrong with a normal 40’ Sewer hose. I’ve done it before.

The make connectors so you can use PVC pipe. I would prefer that for a semi-permanent setup. The smooth inner walls will flush better and it's less prone to pinholes and other issues.

Make sure the tank is at least 3/4 full so it flushes well.

The only issue would be if there isn't any downward slope. then you might have to buy a masserating pump system.

Don't make the mistake of thinking you can now leave the black valve open all the time. As said above, keep it closed and wait until at least 3/4 full before dumping.

garyemunson wrote:
Don't make the mistake of thinking you can now leave the black valve open all the time. As said above, keep it closed and wait until at least 3/4 full before dumping.

X2. You still need to treat your RV as a RV when it comes to dumping the holding tanks.
I agree with using PVC pipe. It will drain better and be less susceptible to wind movement.

Dig down around the end of the tank where they now have the dump fitting and see if there is enough room to cut it off and connect horizontally. You can use rubber hose connectors that will slide on the pipe and connect it together.

Iirc you need to maintain about 1/8 inch per foot of drop on your horizontal run. In 40 feet that equals 5 inches. Depending on how they did it you may just cut their 90 degree pipe off near the tank and run horizontal over to your RV then use a 90 to come out of the ground with a threaded adapter just like an RV park dump.


If you are unsure of when the tank was last pumped you might have it done before you move onto the property. All jurisdictions are different and some may want you to get a permit if you tap into the system. Some may want you to get a septic inspection which amounts to the septic guy running water into the tank. They measure the water level and watch that it weeps out into the field. If there is a problem with the field the water will start rising in the tank and cover the exit fitting which goes out to the field. Some tanks have one cover and some two covers.

You need about 1 ft of drop over a 40ft run of sewer pipe. Since your drain valves are likely over a foot off the ground you should be ok to run 40 ft to ground level. Go to the county/city codes office and find out what the minimum pipe diameter needs to be. Most places it is 4 inch. You will also want to have a trap in the line to keep septic gas from entering.

If there was a house on the septic before then just access the septic where the house did or use the clean out if that is closer and easier to hook into.

Without seeing what you are dealing with, knowing the climate, etc. answering this question is nearly impossible. Though I will say that PVC sewer pipe is cheap, and should likely be an easy installation if the correct amount of slope is available. If not a macerator system like the Flojet or Sanicon may be your best option as they allow you to pump up hill.

Assuming that this is in Florida, it's a pretty easy issue to deal with. If you have enough drop from the valve to the inlet, you can use an adapter to a thinwall rigid plastic plumbing pipe, often called "Schedule 10" or "Sewer and Drain". this stuff is inexpensive, available at HD and Lowes, and has a bell end, so you just glue it together without needing couplings. After you are done, it can be easily hand sawn into small pieces and tossed in the dumpster. To clarify, you need at least 1/8" per foot of drop to make this work, at least 5" overall, not 12, as another poster claimed. As a Fl. snowbird, I see this done frequently in these parts. I just pointed one of these set-ups out to the wife, while walking through a campground. It was an above ground run of the pipe I mention, about 90-100' long, with two 90* turns from the trailer to the inlet. If you do this, as mentioned, you still need to follow RV protocol of keeping the black tank closed until it's relatively full. I would also fill the gray tank, and use that water to flush the line, after you dump the black.

Almost all RV sewer hoses will deteriorate from UV damage and need to be replace at least once when they start leaking over a one year period. We've done volunteering and found that a Rhino hose is good for four to six months at the most. Valterra is marginally better.

Use PVC. It will certainly be easier to maintain the slope you need.

As mentioned let the black tank get as full as possible before you dump. The longer between dumps, the better the materials will dissolve in the black tank. Be sure to use plenty of water with each flush.

You will probably have to sacrifice a short sewer host extension to build a connector on the end of the PVC, and likely need a couple feet of sewer hose to connect the PVC to the RV. I see many long term rigs with that setup.

garyemunson wrote:
Don't make the mistake of thinking you can now leave the black valve open all the time. As said above, keep it closed and wait until at least 3/4 full before dumping.

I disagree. Due to some medical issues I have been "parked" at my son's house for 3 years and connect to his septic tank. I leave my valves open all the time. Simply make sure your use lots of water when you flush.

I also use the cheapest one ply toilet paper. I think that some of the problems people have with build up is the use of the expensive hard to dissolve toilet paper.

About ever 6 months I do use a flashlight to look down the commode to check for any build up. I have never had any build up.

Do a Google search for "rv sewer hose to pvc adapter" to connect to the PVC pipe. They make a number of different type to fit what type (threaded or glue type) of plumbing you use. I did not glue my fitting, simply a tight press fit (with some boards to support the PVC) does not leak since there is no pressure on the drain lines. This way I am able to disconnect and reconnect when I take the RV on a weekend trip.