Understanding Power

I don't mean to be harsh but there is so much wrong with just about everything you said.

rodwha wrote:
I've been reading up on power needs and uses, but things aren't quite clear.

For starters I'm looking at the Keystone Passport 2920 BH.

From what I read not all A/Cs run on DC power. How does one figure this out? Almost all Air/Con units run on 120v AC power.

To be able to run the A/C during a hot summer I read one would need to have a 3000-4000 watt inverter, but that most trailers have a 1000-2000 watt inverter. I don't see anything on their site or in their brochure that gives specs on this either.The bigger issue is you need to supply power to that inverter and most trailers don't even come with an inverter.

It seems there's some sort of inverter that works off of your propane? Maybe I've just had an overload of info reading from several sites. The only way you are getting electricity out of propane is if you get a propane powered generator to create the electricity.

I read lithium batteries are the better choice. Again a lack of info. Is this the typical battery on RV's? The Passport seems to be a bit more than a mediocre trailer.Lithium batteries are rare on RV's. They are much more expensive than traditional lead-acid batteries. They are lighter for the same amount of power stored.

30 amp service seems to be standard unless one has a 2 A/C trailer. I'm guessing there's no issues with upgrading to 50. This would mostly fix issues with running the A/C along with plenty of typical appliances, right?Upgrading to 50amp power can be done but it's not simple (and given your questions it's NOT a DIY project)

I'm a bit fuzzy on the load divider. It ensures there's never an issue where the amp draw is too high?

It seems most trailers come with two batteries. This shows two banks of two. No desire to add any? Most trailers come with 1 battery. If you upgrade to multiple batteries, they can be in one or more banks. Assuming they don't double for starting the main engine (obviously not on a trailer), it doesn't make a lot of sense to put them in separate banks. If you do upgrade and add more batteries, have someone hook them up for you because if you do it wrong, you may wind up with 24 or 48 volts supplied to your 12v devices.

If 600 watts of solar panel can be set up well enough and the days are partly cloudy how long could this extend a boondock adventure in the summer running the A/C? 20-40 minutes (seriously, 600w is only about half of what a typical air/con unit draws so in a very short time your battery bank will be dead...assuming you have a large enough inverter.) 1200-1500w would keep up if it's a clear day and the sun is overhead. Early morning/Late afternoon and output will be far less than the rated amount.)What of a winter with the lows around 20* F? I'm guessing with neither the A/C or heat working this amount might keep everything else running indefinitely?Finally something, that is essentially correct. As long as you are using the propane furnace, 600w and a decent battery bank can be kept up with 600w...of course in the winter solar output is typically much less.

Do the trailer batteries do fine when constantly hooked to AC power?As long as the charger is working properly, it's actually best to keep it plugged in and the batteries fully charged. I know many batteries don't do well over time like that as batteries are meant to be well used and then charged. I ruined an iPhone keeping it charged.

Please find a friend who understands electricity before making any modifications (or pay an electrician to spend an hour or two going over things with you).