1979 Revcon front brakes Question
I am getting ready to do some work on my 79 Revcon front brakes, front brakes and calipers are standered Ford items and i believe the rotors are also, but does any one know about the hubs and a arm bu...
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The rotor is not really Ford, but you can use Ford, if you take a 1/4 inch off the outside of the disc, which is what everyone does. Steering knuckle is not Toro, and no relation, It is much bigger. Wheel bearings are common, and can be found by pulling the number off the old bearing. I have not figured out where they got it from. The lower ball joint can be replaced with a Hummer H1 lower joint. MAKE SURE YOU ARE ASKING FOR AN H1, and not an H2 or H3, as those are GM parts and will not work. The H1 lower ball joint requires re-drilling the holes to a larger size in the A-arm, but it is a no brainer mod. A-frame bushings can be replaced with '68 Buick, as I recall, but I'll have to look that up to know for sure.
While you are under the front end, inspect the bellcranks. Make sure when you turn the wheel, they don't rock up and down. The bolt is to be torqued to 150 ft-lbs. I would also install jam nuts on the bottom, so they can not back out again. OEM nut was stamped after install. If anyone has loosened them, the stamp no longer secures the nut, and they will back out. Once you tighten them, jack the front end (both wheels) and twist the wheel. The steering wheel should spin from one lock to the other. Doing this, you are checking that nothing is binding. When the bellcranks are tight, if they are not shimmed properly, it is very easy for them to bind, so you need to check afterword and make sure it still turns without dragging. A few of us have machined these and installed tapered roller bearings which work very well.
BTW: What state do you hail from?
While you are under the front end, inspect the bellcranks. Make sure when you turn the wheel, they don't rock up and down. The bolt is to be torqued to 150 ft-lbs. I would also install jam nuts on the bottom, so they can not back out again. OEM nut was stamped after install. If anyone has loosened them, the stamp no longer secures the nut, and they will back out. Once you tighten them, jack the front end (both wheels) and twist the wheel. The steering wheel should spin from one lock to the other. Doing this, you are checking that nothing is binding. When the bellcranks are tight, if they are not shimmed properly, it is very easy for them to bind, so you need to check afterword and make sure it still turns without dragging. A few of us have machined these and installed tapered roller bearings which work very well.
BTW: What state do you hail from?
