Hi, newbie to RV'ing as of two weeks ago. I picked up the flair a couple weeks ago and busy fixing this and that.On the subject of brakes1- At 55-60 on highway the brakes pretty much are ineffective. They do engage but skiddish and gutless. I don't know if this is the way these big box rigs are or I need to fix the brakes.2- In case of fixing, how do I find what parts to buy for rotor, pads, etc? 3- Is there a manual for the truck part of this thing? I can only find it for the home part of the motorhome : )Many thanks happy campersFarzadPS I am in San Jose CA and planning to start our first continental trip early October.

“the brakes pretty much are ineffective...”Please don’t drive the MH until the brakes work. My life may depend on it.

Look at the year of the vehicle the vin for sure and figure out when the box was put on it. It will be either a Chevy or Ford. So that the year and say Ford which will be a F53 chassis to the place you deal with and if possible take the item and you can usually get it right. Brakes yes they should be check. Ours last gas was a 99 38 foot , just over 24000 loaded. You touch the brakes you felt it. Brake pads and rotors are not that hard to find. They glazed over just like a car. You also need to get into doing a full brake fluid bleed. Suck out the master brake fluid and fill in with new and then each bleed each wheel till you get clean and new fluid at that point. Ours was done every two years with a high end fluid. Made a lot of different. Also check your rubber hose on the brakes. If they have not been replace it way past time. The can and do separate inside and can cause issues. Auto transmission fluid need to replace every few years also if driving in the Mountains or hills. Again ours was either 2/3 years due to where we live. Not sure how much you weigh in at but that something you need to know. Yell when you need something. Someone is always here. Welcome to the Forum.

Whether you have a particular brake issue is unknown ... but I can safely say that most new RV owners are surprised that it's often hard to stop an RV. Also RV brake's take more maintenance than autos .. partly because many rigs tend to sit long periods of time and the brakes don't get used much (things rust/degrade and brake fluid accumulates water). If your thinking of taking long distance trips in a 95 RV you should seriously consider taking the rig into a Tire/Brake shop and have both the tires and brakes inspected (often free). You should also consider having a mechanic inspect the chassis stuff - all the rubber (hoses/belts) in the engine compartment may have to be replaced and things like water pumps/radiators maybe suspect and other items like spark plug wires/distributors etc maybe due for replacement.

Start by telling us what chassis you have. If it is a Chevy for example have the parts guys look up 1994 p-30 and your brake pads rotors and or drums will be available. Drain old brake fluid out and put in new fluid, grease calipers at the same time. If you do this on your cars you can do it on your MH. If you never did it on your cars take it to a shop you trust.

You can't compare your 1995, 10,000 pound box on wheels to your 2019 Mercedes SL350. You'll get use to the braking.

1995 Fleetwood Flair 22ft | Good Sam Community

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Sep 28, 2020
“the brakes pretty much are ineffective...”

Please don’t drive the MH until the brakes work. My life may depend on it.
MountainAir05
Explorer II
Sep 28, 2020
Look at the year of the vehicle the vin for sure and figure out when the box was put on it. It will be either a Chevy or Ford. So that the year and say Ford which will be a F53 chassis to the place you deal with and if possible take the item and you can usually get it right.

Brakes yes they should be check. Ours last gas was a 99 38 foot , just over 24000 loaded. You touch the brakes you felt it. Brake pads and rotors are not that hard to find. They glazed over just like a car. You also need to get into doing a full brake fluid bleed. Suck out the master brake fluid and fill in with new and then each bleed each wheel till you get clean and new fluid at that point. Ours was done every two years with a high end fluid. Made a lot of different. Also check your rubber hose on the brakes. If they have not been replace it way past time. The can and do separate inside and can cause issues. Auto transmission fluid need to replace every few years also if driving in the Mountains or hills. Again ours was either 2/3 years due to where we live. Not sure how much you weigh in at but that something you need to know. Yell when you need something. Someone is always here. Welcome to the Forum.
ksg5000
Explorer
Sep 28, 2020
Whether you have a particular brake issue is unknown ... but I can safely say that most new RV owners are surprised that it's often hard to stop an RV. Also RV brake's take more maintenance than autos .. partly because many rigs tend to sit long periods of time and the brakes don't get used much (things rust/degrade and brake fluid accumulates water).

If your thinking of taking long distance trips in a 95 RV you should seriously consider taking the rig into a Tire/Brake shop and have both the tires and brakes inspected (often free). You should also consider having a mechanic inspect the chassis stuff - all the rubber (hoses/belts) in the engine compartment may have to be replaced and things like water pumps/radiators maybe suspect and other items like spark plug wires/distributors etc maybe due for replacement.
Gjac
Explorer III
Sep 29, 2020
Start by telling us what chassis you have. If it is a Chevy for example have the parts guys look up 1994 p-30 and your brake pads rotors and or drums will be available. Drain old brake fluid out and put in new fluid, grease calipers at the same time. If you do this on your cars you can do it on your MH. If you never did it on your cars take it to a shop you trust.
jdc1
Explorer II
Sep 29, 2020
You can't compare your 1995, 10,000 pound box on wheels to your 2019 Mercedes SL350. You'll get use to the braking.
MrWizard
Moderator
Sep 29, 2020
Looking at for sale adv
The ones i saw listed all said P30 chassis Chevy v8
pmobin
Explorer
Sep 29, 2020
It is a Chevy chassis with a 454 engine. Here is the id.
Gjac
Explorer III
Sep 29, 2020
pmobin wrote:
It is a Chevy chassis with a 454 engine. Here is the id.

I can't see your image, just look at your rear brakes, I am guessing they are drum brakes because your chassis is light at 22 ft. Are they Drum brakes? Have you done brake jobs on your cars before?
pmobin
Explorer
Sep 29, 2020
They are drums in the back

Hi, getting close to finding the brake parts for this thing. It is down to whether it is an I beam or independent front suspension. I think it is independent. Can you guys tell? Here are the pix
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bZsS7TTMY2KSFwi3A
ItsyRV
Explorer
Sep 29, 2020
pmobin wrote:
It is a Chevy chassis with a 454 engine. Here is the id.

Grab your VIN and go to your local GM/Chevrolet dealer parts dept. Ask them if they can run a (I think its the VIS report) to retrieve the RPO codes for your chassis. With your vehicle's RPO list, you can find put exactly what type of braking system and components were installed at the factory for your chassis. Or, you can check around the drivers/passenger area to see if the original RPO sticker was attached somewhere.

Once home, you can do an internet search for GM RPO codes and check each of the codes to see what was installed on your chassis at the factory,. Since you had only a chassis, you won't haver all the extra RPO codes that deal with paint colors, door trims, etc.

As an FYI, here's a list of RPO codes.
AC DELCO GM RPO Codes