1997 F53 460 and Rotella R6 5w40

John&Joey wrote:
I know you feel like an engine with only 11k on the block after 20 years is a real find, but honestly it might not be.

Oil is only one small item. Hopefully the engine was ran at the most ideal times so that the oil kept internal rust buildup in check. For example if he put on 11k the first year then sat in a barn for 19 years you'll have problems. On the other hand if he did a 100 mile run every few months for 20 years then you got a winner.

Also oil is one of the smallest of things in my mind right now. With so few miles I'm guessing maintenance fell to the wayside. Thinking you got original antifreeze, fuel filter, brake fluid, and transmission fluid all in there from 1997.

I would run that unit very lightly in the beginning and keep a sharp eye out for puddles. Guessing that tranny could be a leaker, and maybe those brakes will lock up after some hard stopping/miles. You might have a great rig there, but I would baby it in the very beginning till the cobwebs are out of it.

Actually, the engine looks brand new. The oil came out looking like it was just changed too. The trans, everything looks brand new. I don't know how often they drove it but it didn't sit for a long period of time, and you can definitely tell they took care of it. It had brand new tires, roof, etc. I drove it home and it did 70mph easily, and now I have the Banks headers on it and it's a real difference. I don't beat on any of my stuff. Everything I have is babied for the most part. I do notice the thermostat seems to be a little sticky.. sometimes the temp will go up near the end of the normal range, and then drop back down to the middle. I just bought a new thermostat for it, but I bought the 160. I know it came with a 192 from the factory so I am thinking about going with a 180 instead. I am going to flush the coolant too, but the coolant looks good. The pan on the transmission looks like there isn't a leak anywhere, but I would like to do that too. Someone has changed the fluid on the rear diff too as I can see a little silicone on it, and it looks like it leaked a little at some point as the bottom is a little soiled.

I know you feel like an engine with only 11k on the block after 20 years is a real find, but honestly it might not be.

Oil is only one small item. Hopefully the engine was ran at the most ideal times so that the oil kept internal rust buildup in check. For example if he put on 11k the first year then sat in a barn for 19 years you'll have problems. Doesn't matter what type of oil you'll use, you'll have problems. On the other hand if he did a 100 mile run every few months for 20 years then you got a winner.

Also oil is one of the smallest of things in my mind right now. With so few miles I'm guessing maintenance fell to the wayside. Thinking you got original antifreeze, fuel filter, brake fluid, grease, and transmission fluid all in there from 1997.

I would run that unit very lightly in the beginning and keep a sharp eye out for puddles. Guessing that tranny could be a leaker, and maybe those brakes will lock up after some hard stopping/miles. You might have a great rig there, but I would baby it in the very beginning till the cobwebs are out of it.

Sidebar, that link to the oil made me laugh. Guessing he never rebuilt an engine in his life. Being book smart is not the same as being street smart.

lenr wrote:
Everyone should use the oil that provides the best night's sleep. However, here is a link to a technical article on why diesel oil in a gasoline engine might not be a good idea.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-

To answer the original OP question, I would would use Motorcraft 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic or Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic, both for gasoline engines unless oil consumption is excessive, which might call for thicker oil.

From memory (I'm not going to cite a reference):

Ford and Honda did some research back before the turn of the century that showed that thin oil on cold startup was more important than thick oil when up to full temperature in terms of long term wear. My late 90s and 00s Ford gas engines recommended 5W-20 for this reason. (Have not owned a Ford gas engine since 2004 so have no knowledge if this has changed.)

Back even earlier GM found that increasing the polymers in the oil to move it from 10W-30 to 10W-40 caused their engines to develop more carbon deposits. (Modern engine design might have found another fix for this, but it could also be why Ford goes with thinner oil--The modular engines had a tough time with carbon.)

The old old 10-30 verses 10-40 has absolutely nothing to do with this 5-40 post

Quote:

Not only does 5W40 Rotella T6 meet API SM specifications (oil for gasoline engines), but it's sold as mixed-fleet oil which means it's specifically intended to simplify fleet maintenance by using it in both gasoline and diesel engines.

Everyone should use the oil that provides the best night's sleep. However, here is a link to a technical article on why diesel oil in a gasoline engine might not be a good idea.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-

To answer the original OP question, I would would use Motorcraft 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic or Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic, both for gasoline engines unless oil consumption is excessive, which might call for thicker oil.

From memory (I'm not going to cite a reference):

Ford and Honda did some research back before the turn of the century that showed that thin oil on cold startup was more important than thick oil when up to full temperature in terms of long term wear. My late 90s and 00s Ford gas engines recommended 5W-20 for this reason. (Have not owned a Ford gas engine since 2004 so have no knowledge if this has changed.)

Back even earlier GM found that increasing the polymers in the oil to move it from 10W-30 to 10W-40 caused their engines to develop more carbon deposits. (Modern engine design might have found another fix for this, but it could also be why Ford goes with thinner oil--The modular engines had a tough time with carbon.)

Thanks guys, yeah luckily with 11k miles I don’t think it will be that dirty but it is almost 22 years old so who knows but on a good note the oil I took out was very clean!

Diesel oil only means it's a higher detergent oil. That's all.

On a gas engine expect the first couple of oil changes to be pretty black if there are some miles on the engine. After that it will look normal to the gas engine wrench monkey.

I have used rotella t6 5W40 my gas engines for the last 5 years with no problem 2, 5.4 fords, 1, 2.3 ford and 1, 3.0 ford all are high mileage 190,000+ miles. also 8.3 cummins in my MOHO. agree or disagree that is what I do and if they break in half I get to keep both halves and put them back together.

OK, never looked into criss crossing oil types. I just stick with what they are designed for.

lenr wrote:
Rotella is a diesel oil. OP should use gasoline rated oil. Converter fouling may result. Mobile 1 makes good synthetic wide range oil if that is the goal.

really ? well here what I found

Not only does 5W40 Rotella T6 meet API SM specifications (oil for gasoline engines), but it's sold as mixed-fleet oil which means it's specifically intended to simplify fleet maintenance by using it in both gasoline and diesel engines.

lenr wrote:
Rotella is a diesel oil. OP should use gasoline rated oil. Converter fouling may result. Mobile 1 makes good synthetic wide range oil if that is the goal.

I don’t have a converter. Diesel oil is fine for gasoline too, in fact it’s one of the best. Mobil 1 is no longer using full synthetic stock so I’ve dumped it.