Forum Discussion

SECoop's avatar
SECoop
Explorer
Feb 23, 2015

1999 Coachmen Lep - Flooded!

We returned to our campsite (we left the rig there) after a month away. Found floor of the rig saturated. Ceilings fine, upper cabinets fine. Mold everywhere.

Prior to leaving, we disconnected hose from outside water faucet but left the other end attached to the rig. Drained all tanks, sewer, etc.

When we returned, we found the hose reattached to the faucet (and it has always had a strong leak which we asked to have fixed many times). We suspect that a maintenance person did that to keep the faucet drip from saturating the ground.

QUESTION: can the leaking faucet back up through the hose and into the rig enough to create that much water damage? PS turned on the water to the rig and no noticeable leaks from waterlines.

If you are familiar with Coachmen's unique "Valve System" or "Gate" - we had it turned to the Winterize configuration.

ANY HELP is appreciated, we cannot figure out what happened. Thanks
__________________
Susie and Jaye
"Never a Dull Moment!"
  • The water system is almost certainly not nearly as complex as you may think. If it were me, I think I would go about reinstalling or replacing the water lines. You may (or may not) be able to get some help from Coachmen about the routing and configuration of the plumbing; otherwise, you probably can get some help here with specific questions and pictures and so forth.

    The bulk of the system isn't all that much different in overall design from a normal house water system, for what it's worth; there's basically a set of cold piping and a set of hot piping supplying all the fixtures, with the source of water (the city water connection and the pump) at the cold side. The hot and cold systems both probably have low point drain valves, and there's probably a set of bypass valves near the water heater. That just leaves the fill and winterize and pump/city water connection plumbing, which has a few variations.

    The water system control panel on my Coachmen is merely a bunch of valves mounted together: the hot and cold low point drain valves, a fill valve (that connects the cold side of the plumbing to the fill line of the tank so that city water flows in), an "operation valve" that I believe is between the pump suction and the tank output, and a "winterize" valve that apparently is between the winterize suction inlet and the pump. Aside from somewhat unusual naming, they aren't that complicated to work out. I don't know if you have the same sort of setup or not.
  • JaxDad's avatar
    JaxDad
    Explorer III
    Tell Geico to pay or you're hiring a lawyer.

    The leak was not caused by the rodents chewing the lines, the leak was caused by somebody connecting your rig back to the leaking faucet.

    That leaves two possible culprits for them to go after, the person that connected the hose to your rig after you disconnected it, or whoever it was that didn't fix the leaking faucet when you asked them many times to do so.
  • It is now a year later. We paid an RV "specialist" to determine the problems in the water lines (mice or rats, couldn't tell) and he pulled the water heater, counted (and pulled) all the breached lines he could find. $1200 later, we asked him to stop - which he did - but never put the water heater back together, never mapped the lines he pulled or the breaches he found within the system. We've cleaned the mold damage but have no idea how to replace the (very complex) Leprechaun water-line system. Is it time to ditch it? We love this MH. (PS:Geico turned us down because of rodent damage) Comments, PLEASE you guys1
  • Check where the bottom of the awning arms attach to the side of the MH.

    These screws come loose and pull at the molding. It doesn't have to be pull off either. Just a little bit away from wall and the water finds it way in.

    Your year MH should have molding 3/4 ways down on side. This is where the floor is and the darn awning arms are bolted here to what only will be 3/4 inch particle board that is your floor.

    The water runs down the side of the MH and into those awning brackets that have come loose and soaks the floor and wicks to the carpet.

    Took me forever to find out where my wet carpet was coming from and it turned out to be from the awning arms lower brackets pulling away from the side of the MH.
  • Check the windows and the weep holes. Last summer the weep holes clogged causing water to back in. I have a 98 Lepraucan.
  • I would suspect roof leak runnng down a stud in the sidewall. Don't see how the situation you mention could cause what you describe.