2000 Bounder Electrical Problem

Not sure it would help but if it is 2000 it should have a connection to check it with a scanner. It may throw you a code to help track it. Most parts stores can code it for you!!

Hope this helps!
Dad

A joke I tell folks is "The biggest problem with motor homes is:" then I hold up the key ring "They all fit".

Have you reduced the load on the key cylinder?

Now modern steering column mounted locks the cylinder gear drives a slider in most cases but if it wears enough it might miss a tooth. (I don't think so)

But it does sound like a screw loose. or a loose nut. or other bad connection. This can be a barber shop visit saving job (After you pull all your hair out you don't need the barber)

Jiggling the key will NOT have any effect on your problem. The key is connected to the ignition switch by a long rod. The ignition switch is under the dash on top of the steering column. Check that connection.

In most automotive applications the alternator will keep the engine running without the battery BUT you coach has a chassis battery disconnect relay. If your alternator charges the battery and the disconnect relay fails when you hit a bump, your engine dies.
Move all the large wires on the disconnect relay to one terminal and see if the problem goes away. Disconnect relay is in the Battery Control Center. Wiring schematic in inside of BCC cover.

Richard

Sounds like a loose connection or corrosion but it could be many different things in the electrical system. It is hard to find intermittent problems, it needs to act up to find it. Good luck let us know when you figure it out.

jdc1 wrote:
Since you DON'T need a battery to keep a vehicle running (the alternator will do that), it has to be an ignition problem.

I don't know if its the case with the OPs MH, but some newer vehicles do need a healthy battery to run. Want to ask me how I know? :B

Given the vintage of the OPs MH, I suspect it might.

Thanks for the suggestions. .i cleaned the ground wire to bare metal and added an additional ground wire to make sure it was a solid connection.
I jiggled the key, the engine kept running.
The red cutoff switch is fully depressed.
I'm moving on to jiggling and thumping!

Thanks for the suggestions. A good friend is a truck mechanic and he said he would take a look at it. His suggestion was to pull wires and shake relays to see if we can replicate it in the shop.
I'll let you know if we're successful.

Check the inertia switch's red button, make sure it is completely depressed.The inertia switch is on the floor/firewall behind or near the brake pedal. In a collision/rollover it is supposed to kill power to the fuel pump.

Well you have done all the normal things time to consider where is 12vDC mandatory to keep the engine running?
Majority of electrical problems turn out th be a bad ground.
Time to start jerking on wires and thumping fuses with the engine running.
Solenoids
Fuel pump
Distributor
Computer
???

Good luck and post back what you find.

with it running take the key and jiggle it a little to the off position and see if it cuts off