2000 Fleetwood Southwind exterior cabinet latches

Using a silicone based dry spray on bicycle chain lubricant or Kwikee stair lube on the sliders and finger latches/locks will keep them sliding more smoothly over time. Expect all the plastic latches to eventually break. Getting them open if the latch breaks in the extended position can be challenging. Do it from behind the doors, not in front.

Chum lee

Excellent. Thank you!

I ordered my new latches from fleetwood and i keep 2 pairs with me while traveling.or you can buy the latches at camping world for about 10 bucks each.when you replace the door latches use sheet metal screws not nuts.

Hey that's a pretty good idea too. So basically you're just cutting through the plastic panel revealing the catch mechanism? I assume the styrofoam core is already removed on the inside surrounding the latch. Is there a place where you order the parts from? Do you know of a good website?

I am slowly fixing mine one at a time as they break. I use a razor knife to cut a 5" X 5" square on the inside of the door right behind the plastic catch on the edge of the door. I have some stained plywood patches that I then cover the hole with but am thinking of using license plates from states I visit to cover the hole. Just use 1/4" tek screws to attach the cover.

Not the prettiest but allows full access to the plastic catch and I don't have to worry about bending the door trim. Will also allow me to easily replace them as they will break in the future.

Haha. Wasn't offended. I tried to remove the side piece with the latch by using a thin scraper to gently break the glue bond along the length of the trim piece but I couldn't get it all. I managed to pull the piece off enough so I could see inside and found that the screws were held by nuts that just spin. I will try your method of pounding the piece off using a block tonight. Thanks for the tips. Cheers!

LOL....Glad you wasn't offended by my first post.
Thinking back, scratching head, I think the latch screws are only holding the latch to the side panel. If you have the corner screws out, then the glue should be your only problem. I know it's scary but the end piece should be removable. If it bends a little while removing, you can straighten it later. Brute strength and ignorance shall prevail.
If this is the design you have, get a wood block and hammer up near the end (close to where the corner screws were) and drive that piece off. Once it starts moving, move the block along the length of the side panel.

Richard

PS DON"T SLAM THE BAY DOOR. ROFLMHO

Where were you when I was learning the hard way?? Ok, what's done is done and I will no longer slam the doors :). Going forward though, I removed the handle mechanism and removed the corner frame screws and the bottom piece of frame. The sides won't come off because I can't remove the screws from the latch areas. The screws just spin. I assume that means the holes are stripped or is there a nut or some other piece that's just spinning inside?

Flyteof4 wrote:
In addition, Does anyone know how to adjust the catches so you don't have to slam the doors so hard just to get them to latch?

There in lies your problem.
Don't slam the doors!
Lift the handle on the out side of the door, close door, push door with your knee to latch it. I have the very same bay doors and latches on my 95 Bounder and all the parts are original. Those plastic latches on the edges of the doors will break off when slammed.
To change the latches, first remove the handle by removing the 4 screws on the inside of the door. Then remove the gas lift spring. Then remove the latch screws and the corner screws. Then start prying the edge aluminum from the door. Not only are the doors screwed together, they are also glued together. Once the repair has been made, don't slam the doors!

I tried YouTube but nothing pertaining to my problem. In addition, Does anyone know how to adjust the catches so you don't have to slam the doors so hard just to get them to latch?