In general from taking apart a lot of rvs , Im not too sure if a 2006 rv would be very 4 season capable. 4 season thinking came more into play in later years.
If you have a slide- out, i hope you have a floor-plan to be able to close it at night. Less volume to heat as well as keeping a tighter seal.
Slides have thinner walls and do not have too much insulation in them. They use a lot of propane in cold temps. You would also need to climb up to clear its roof from snow and ice to be able to close it. Non slide rvs or slide floorplans that allow full interior use work much better in cold temps.
Keep a roof vent cracked open to prevent condensation and use insulated interior covers on the others. Single pane windows do not work well in cold temps when the interior is heated.
A cheap fix … Storm windows can be fabricated by using heat shrink plastic sandwiched between two pieces of DOW insulation board . You can cut out a hole in the center of the boards to see out of. The clear heat shrink acts as your window.
They are held in place by trimming the insulation so it fits snug to the windows frame , held in place by pressure.
This system worked very well for me for many years.
I also added an electric blanket for sleeping and lowering the thermostat and added a winter drape to cover the inside of the rv entrance door. That’s a major cold air leak source. Keeping the slide retracted at night and doing those mods cut my propane use in half.
Im not sure if a 2006 rv used Pex water lines or not but even though Pex would be a good thing it’s the plastic valves, petcocks and water line connectors that crack and leak from the cold.
*Learn how to change and swap out fittings and make sure you have the correct tool to do so.
Keep in mind during winter rv living , if the water pump constantly cycles or pulses on its own, that’s an indication that a plastic fitting has cracked or a water leak is present somewhere.
*The water feed to toilets were a common freeze point. A small elec cube heater in the bathroom helped.
In winter, i had to use a winter water spigot to fill my freshwater tank then use my pump to prevent freezing a feed line as well as the campground's hydrant.
If possible pre- test the rv in cold temps to see if the furnace ducts are routed in a way to really do a good job of heating.
As a test : When i used my rvs for snowmobiling, i placed small water bottles or thermometers under the sink cabinets and in various compartments that housed water lines. Make sure those areas get enough heat. If the bottles don't freeze the water lines and fittings should not freeze either.
Sometimes small 12v computer fans need to be installed to move warm air into cold areas of a cabinet.
As common sense already suggested , following the weather would be the smart way to spend a year in an rv traveling the U.S.
What does 4 season really mean ? Winter in North Carolina is not the same as winter in Manitoba. :B
It would be a big plus if the shower water lines and valves were located on an interior heated wall opposed to an outside colder wall. Those designs in earlier years did freeze at times.
