2010 and 2011 Winnebago Vista 30W Owners
I purchased mine a year ago. I love the layout and the space for the size is great. I have the dinette. I have made some mods and curious how others are doing. I removed the front TV and installed co...
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Here are the instructions to swap-out toilet.
Installing an Aqua Magic Style II Toilet in a Winnebago Vista 30W Motorhome
(About a 2-hour job IF you don’t have to move the flange)
1. Make sure water is turned off and toilet is empty
2. Disconnect water line from back of toilet – have a towel handy to dry what drips out
3. Remove plastic caps over the two nuts on either side of the toilet base
4. Remove the nuts holding the toilet to the flange
5. Lift the toilet straight up and remove – have something ready to set it on to protect flooring
6. Set new toilet in place to make sure it will fit on the existing flange. The flush lever can be depressed to allow you to look to see of the flange lines up with the hole in the bottom of the toilet. If it does not fit, then it may be necessary to move the flange and this becomes a much more complex operation. However, before moving flange, check to see if toilet will fit if you do steps 9 and 11 below. (In our case this is what we were able to do.)
7. Set new toilet aside and place old rag or towel in opening to minimize smell and keep objects out of black water tank
8. Remove fitting from end of water line if it doesn’t already have a 90° elbow. Purchase this fitting ahead of time. We bought both a ½ and a 3/8 inch fitting to be sure we had the right one.
9. Reroute the water line so that it emerges through the floor as close to the wall as possible
We used a saw and file to cut a slot from the old hole towards the wall and moved the hose back toward the wall. This left the old hole and a 1” wide opening in the floor between the back of the toilet and the wall which, after moving the water line towards the wall, we covered with a piece cut to fit from a self-sticking vinyl tile we bought at Lowe’s when we bought the new toilet seat. A better alternative would be to drill a new hole near the wall and reroute the water line. However, this will require removing the flange/drain pipe to allow you to move the water line to the new hole and then replacing the flange/drain pipe. This is not difficult to do. The drain pipe assembly isn’t glued to the top of the black tank and will easily pull out. You’ll still have the original small hole to cover with a vinyl patch.
10. Install a 90° elbow connector on the water line
11. At the back and top of the toilet there is a plastic vacuum-breaker assembly attached to the toilet with clear plastic tubing. We cut off ½” of the horizontal, short plastic tubing to allow the back of the toilet to be placed closer to the wall. (As the toilet comes from the factory, the chamber sticks way out from the back.)
12. Attach water line to fitting in back of toilet (I attached mine before putting the toilet in place since reaching it was easier)
13. Replace the gold-colored flange bolts with the new ones supplied with the new toilet (the old ones are too long)
14. Place gasket flat side up on the pipe in the bottom of the toilet
15. Carefully lower toilet over the flange bolts and onto the flange taking care not to damage the gasket (make sure you take the rag out of the pipe!)
16. Place nuts on the bolts and hand-tighten
17. If possible, have someone sit on the toilet or apply body pressure to the toilet while you tighten the bolts as instructed in the toilet installation manual. Place caps over the nuts.
18. If you didn’t do so at step 12., attach water line to fitting in back of toilet
Have a seat and enjoy your new toilet.
If you plan to replace the seat (we used an elongated seat) install the new seat BEFORE you perform step 15. as it is very difficult to do with the toilet in place.
Installing an Aqua Magic Style II Toilet in a Winnebago Vista 30W Motorhome
(About a 2-hour job IF you don’t have to move the flange)
1. Make sure water is turned off and toilet is empty
2. Disconnect water line from back of toilet – have a towel handy to dry what drips out
3. Remove plastic caps over the two nuts on either side of the toilet base
4. Remove the nuts holding the toilet to the flange
5. Lift the toilet straight up and remove – have something ready to set it on to protect flooring
6. Set new toilet in place to make sure it will fit on the existing flange. The flush lever can be depressed to allow you to look to see of the flange lines up with the hole in the bottom of the toilet. If it does not fit, then it may be necessary to move the flange and this becomes a much more complex operation. However, before moving flange, check to see if toilet will fit if you do steps 9 and 11 below. (In our case this is what we were able to do.)
7. Set new toilet aside and place old rag or towel in opening to minimize smell and keep objects out of black water tank
8. Remove fitting from end of water line if it doesn’t already have a 90° elbow. Purchase this fitting ahead of time. We bought both a ½ and a 3/8 inch fitting to be sure we had the right one.
9. Reroute the water line so that it emerges through the floor as close to the wall as possible
We used a saw and file to cut a slot from the old hole towards the wall and moved the hose back toward the wall. This left the old hole and a 1” wide opening in the floor between the back of the toilet and the wall which, after moving the water line towards the wall, we covered with a piece cut to fit from a self-sticking vinyl tile we bought at Lowe’s when we bought the new toilet seat. A better alternative would be to drill a new hole near the wall and reroute the water line. However, this will require removing the flange/drain pipe to allow you to move the water line to the new hole and then replacing the flange/drain pipe. This is not difficult to do. The drain pipe assembly isn’t glued to the top of the black tank and will easily pull out. You’ll still have the original small hole to cover with a vinyl patch.
10. Install a 90° elbow connector on the water line
11. At the back and top of the toilet there is a plastic vacuum-breaker assembly attached to the toilet with clear plastic tubing. We cut off ½” of the horizontal, short plastic tubing to allow the back of the toilet to be placed closer to the wall. (As the toilet comes from the factory, the chamber sticks way out from the back.)
12. Attach water line to fitting in back of toilet (I attached mine before putting the toilet in place since reaching it was easier)
13. Replace the gold-colored flange bolts with the new ones supplied with the new toilet (the old ones are too long)
14. Place gasket flat side up on the pipe in the bottom of the toilet
15. Carefully lower toilet over the flange bolts and onto the flange taking care not to damage the gasket (make sure you take the rag out of the pipe!)
16. Place nuts on the bolts and hand-tighten
17. If possible, have someone sit on the toilet or apply body pressure to the toilet while you tighten the bolts as instructed in the toilet installation manual. Place caps over the nuts.
18. If you didn’t do so at step 12., attach water line to fitting in back of toilet
Have a seat and enjoy your new toilet.
If you plan to replace the seat (we used an elongated seat) install the new seat BEFORE you perform step 15. as it is very difficult to do with the toilet in place.
