Hello! I'm a complete newbie to RVs. I'm buying a motorhome to travel the country for a year or two.I have no pets.(I had extensively traveled America and camped all over for 20 years without an RV and I love tent camping)I found that my favorite places (in National Forests and parks) allow 24 feet max motorhome max.Sometimes even the road to the place has this length limit (windy mountain roads).Upon viewing 24' units I feel tehre's too little space to fulltime in for 1-2 years. I guess I feel the fatigue from my extensive tent camping and all the tiny houses I stayed in, as I've been a full time traveler for quite a while26' seems like a very good compromise size-wise (ideally I'd want a 31 but this won't get me into placdes)Gas mileage on those seems to be the same, prices too. The problem is the size limits.Do you think I can get away with 26' in 24' spaces? I see some indications people had been doing it but not sure if it's for real.

Whoa, found this thread I made long time ago before they butchered this forum. Now I cant even read my own thread ok on my phone and username got truncated, sad they killed the useful and convenient forum by horrible corporate changes. Want to report that I'm still full timing in my class C RV and having time of my life. I camp only in remote dispersed places in nature way out there all over the West where I dont have to see anyone else. Meanwhile I also did 3-week trial run multi state trip with a truck and trailer instead and found I liked class C better. I use every bit of space in my class C for storage including some serious dry food supplies. Love the solitude in the middle of nowhere, and these had been the best years of my life 26 ft length turned out to be the best, at the end, it fits all my numerous junk, supplies and tools, good size tanks, bunch of extra water in jugs, and I rarely find myself limited by length. By width much more often but Im good at clearing vegetation on overgrown roads. The few places that need shorter length like 24' length limit roads, I found plenty of better alternatives for them. But I woulnt want my motorhome to be longer, 26' is just perfect, the golden mean. Id like more space, even though I temporarily removed the dinette table, one of the seats and armchair, since I never use the slide while I do not use flush toilet anymore and setup small composting one which is hard to fit in, but I manage ok. Switching to composting toilet gave me tons more freedom, as I use little water now and dont depend on dump stations, I haul lots of extra water in big jugs too which allows for carefree long stays in regions where water is hard to get, Im never remotely close to being short on water

Thanks for the good chuckle! Yes, with my 45’ it’s harder to find sites, but not impossible. We mainly dry camp in public CGs during the summer without advanced reservations… been doing it this way for 20 years. Buy a 30’ and don’t worry about the extra length, it WILL NOT be a problem.

I'm curious which places have a 24' length limit? If these are off road, back country NFS or BLM sites with narrow, winding, unpaved roads in/out, the length limit is probably to keep you from getting stuck, or damaging your vehicle or the flora. Cruise America made up a list of more mainstream NPS park limits... it looks close (except Big Bend NP which will handle longer RVs).https://www.cruiseamerica.com/rv-adventures/rv-lifestyle/national-park-rv-size-limit Generally speaking, a 26 footer won't find many places that can't handle it.

Ivylog wrote:Thanks for the good chuckle! Yes, with my 45’ it’s harder to find sites, but not impossible. We mainly dry camp in public CGs during the summer without advanced reservations… been doing it this way for 20 years. Buy a 30’ and don’t worry about the extra length, it WILL NOT be a problem.30' will not to into places I need to be, definitely, it's very tight camping spots and loop-like road curves.I'm picky about sites and places I go to. My goal is not to simply live in RV out there, but also being able to get into the same places I had visited for years on my small car with my tent.

MDKMDK wrote:I'm curious which places have a 24' length limit? If these are off road, back country NFS or BLM sites with narrow, winding, unpaved roads in/out, the length limit is probably to keep you from getting stuck, or damaging your vehicle or the flora. Cruise America made up a list of more mainstream NPS park limits... it looks close (except Big Bend NP which will handle longer RVs).***Link Removed*** Generally speaking, a 26 footer won't find many places that can't handle it.Wheeler Peak in Big Basin NP, both road and campground, 24'.There're a lot more, where it's 19-20' or so limits in many campgrounds but I'm pretty sure 24' can go in because I've seen smallish class C there.I'm not into mainstream parks in general, mostly go to remote locations in National Forests where the truck camper would be best, but for variety of reasons I can't chose a truck camper now.I avoid National parks, too overrun, Big Bend is the only one I still like.Also, if a place has a bigger parking spur - it's usually the one that's going to be already taken/hard to get, so I often camped where it wasn't too easy to park my 16' Toyota Camry, even. Best campsites got small spurs or clearings. (I'm not into camping out in the open shade-less flat areas and around other rigs)Where I camp I mostly only ever see vans/class B or truck campers, occasionally/rarely a compact-looking class C. I can't tell the length by looking at them, though.The question is if I can get away with 26' in those places.Some more remote camps have no official limit, but rangers warned me that taking a motorhome was going to be risky thing, and said it better be "small" - said at your own risk, but couldn't tell me how many feet max.I'd be upset if I couldn't get into a favorite or nice spot because of length and ended up somewhere crowded/noisy/smokey instead of a quiet private spot. I have asthma and have to look for isolated spots away from campfires.It's easier in the desert but where there're woods the clearings are often small

24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

mountaintravele
Explorer II
Nov 01, 2024
Whoa, found this thread I made long time ago before they butchered this forum. Now I cant even read my own thread ok on my phone and username got truncated, sad they killed the useful and convenient forum by horrible corporate changes.

Want to report that I'm still full timing in my class C RV and having time of my life. I camp only in remote dispersed places in nature way out there all over the West where I dont have to see anyone else. Meanwhile I also did 3-week trial run multi state trip with a truck and trailer instead and found I liked class C better. I use every bit of space in my class C for storage including some serious dry food supplies. Love the solitude in the middle of nowhere, and these had been the best years of my life

26 ft length turned out to be the best, at the end, it fits all my numerous junk, supplies and tools, good size tanks, bunch of extra water in jugs, and I rarely find myself limited by length. By width much more often but Im good at clearing vegetation on overgrown roads. The few places that need shorter length like 24' length limit roads, I found plenty of better alternatives for them. But I woulnt want my motorhome to be longer, 26' is just perfect, the golden mean. Id like more space, even though I temporarily removed the dinette table, one of the seats and armchair, since I never use the slide while I do not use flush toilet anymore and setup small composting one which is hard to fit in, but I manage ok. Switching to composting toilet gave me tons more freedom, as I use little water now and dont depend on dump stations, I haul lots of extra water in big jugs too which allows for carefree long stays in regions where water is hard to get, Im never remotely close to being short on water
- pianotuna
  Nomad III
  Nov 01, 2024
  The board is terribly dead
pnichols
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2023
mountaintraveler wrote:
pnichols wrote:
If I was a bit younger and much richer, I think I'd consider this - 19'8" long and AWD - probably install a bit taller tires on it for more ground clearance, though:

https://pleasureway.com/models/ontour20/

LOL 180K!
I grew up in a world where most roads were dirt (deep dirt, the kind that sinks army tanks) and camping was simple and inexpensive activity, in rough norther climate.
Look what they did to this now...And these are rapidly depreciating assets, costing as much as a house that is going to only appreciate (while one spends equal amount of money on regular maintenance)
They're going to force electric vehicles pretty soon, I'm sure, what's going to become of the value of these overpriced vans...when it'll be hard and very expensive to buy any fuel.

Class C and many class Bs are overbuilt and have too many "amenities" I have no use for. I don't need entertainment system/TV, on-board generator, 2nd sink, big bed, oven, multiple stove burners (need one), microwave, outside shower, dinette, can do without A/C and 6 gallon water heater (1 gal heater is fine with me, with 6 gal I just waste propane).
So it'd make sense to build something I want on my own, with own hands as they charge insane money for builds, or gut a small trailer to make more storage space. But I won't travel after this last big trip as want to settle into small farming life.

I don't need a generator except for emergency, my cheap solar panel meets all my needs. I have to run Onan on board generator every couple of weeks to avoid clogged carburetor, which gives me headache as I hate fumes, noise and have to set new altitude every time and my altitude switch is finicky, got to change to summer oil, have to worry about fuel varnishing and fuel quality for that expensive, picky generator - and I have to run electric heater outside, heating the forest to load that generator properly! I prefer my cheap 2nd carry-on dual fuel Pulsar generator, one kind of oil for all weather, and I only use propane - no fuel rot, no mess or smell, no exercising it. On-board Onan seems to require convoluted procedure to prepare it for storage, much more than draining the carbureator, so can't just keep it shut down.

Ann Cat ... since this is a Class C forum section ... what year/brand of Class C do you have?

My good old E450 based 2005 Itasca (Winnebago) 24 ft. Class C I bought new in 2006 came stock with all those "luxuries" that I guess you're saying you don't need. The DW and myself use them all when drycamping - whether drycamping in a campground or drycamping out on the far side of beyond.

We never drive through an entrance leading to the middle of nowhere without having first topped up our 55 gallon gasoline tank, which gives our built-in Onan genny plenty of run-time - in addition to what the V10 might need to get us back to civilization. I also carry along a portable genny along with it's own gas supply so as to provide coach battery charging backup - to either the Onan charging of the batteries (plus running all other electrical gadgets) or idling of the V10 to charge the batteries. I never adjust the Onan's altitude setting - just leave it on sea level all the time.

I maintain positive air pressure inside the coach whenever running either of the two generators or idling of the V10 - so as to use physics to absolutely keep out any/all fumes ... and it works like a champ.

It sure is nice to have inside or outside showers, perfect coach interior temperatures regardless of outside temps, plenty of refrigerator/freezer cubic footage, 3 stovetop burners if needed, an oven if needed, a large 12V fan with a long extension cord to blow on us when sitting outside under the awning in hot outside temps, a lounge chair for reading or watching of movies when not outside, large storage tanks, two queen size beds for complete sleeping comfort, 5 ways of recharging the coach batteries anytime anywhere (we don't have/need solar - yet) and higher-than-stock rough road clearance due to my use of tires with a larger diameter than what came stock on our Class C. All of this is supported via an overkill E450 chassis for added strength and durability that took me a long time to locate under a 24 ft. Class C ... which are usually built on only an E350 chassis.

The infuriating part is that all the above set us back only around $54K when we bought new back in the day. What a rip'off todays RV prices are!
mountaintravele
Explorer II
Sep 18, 2023
opnspaces wrote:
mountaintraveler wrote:

I had run it from sea level to around 8000ft. My manual says that running it with higher altitude setting at low altitude will damage the generator. Not sure about the other way, but its supposed to sputter, surge, run poorly if altitude is high and isn't set in the generator. May be its not noticeable with newer generator in top shape.

This is how the above works. Your generator needs a mixture of fuel and air in the correct ratio of air to fuel to work properly (14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel is correct).

Say you set that mixture at sea level. Now when you go up to 8,000 feet there is less air. So if you make no changes then you might have 8 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. (that ratio is completely made up but the point is still valid). There ratio has too much fuel and not enough air. That is known as a rich condition which can cause sputter surge and loss of power. But it doesn't destroy the engine.

However, if you are at 8,000 feet elevation and you set your generator correctly so it has a 14:1 ratio everything is fine and your generator is happy. But when you go back to sea level there is a whole bunch more air. So you might now have a ratio of 20:1 (20 parts of air to each part of fuel) That is known as a lean condition and is very bad. When an engine is running lean it is running hot and can destroy itself in a short amount of time.

The altitude adjustment knob (plastic) is actually missing, the way I bought it, and I use pliers to set altitude as the dial markings and the metal knob housing are intact, per advice from Cummings tech support and they said altitude settings are very approximate. The whole design is ridiculous as they do not sell replacement knobs and require expensive carbureator replacement if this piece of plasic falls off, while all it would take is to seat the plastic back into its housing. To me it all is expensive scam and I'm looking forward to life free of gas or diesel generators once I sell.
mountaintravele
Explorer II
Sep 18, 2023
klutchdust wrote:
Something to think about if you own a generator.
"After a prolonged period of running without load, the engine will start to incompletely combust the fuel due to a lack of running hot enough and burning off the unburnt hydrocarbons.

To correct this situation, the generator should be run at nearly full load to warm up and burn off all the built-up soot buildup and unburnt fuel.

Running the generator at a high load for several hours will ensure that the combustion process in the engine is optimal and will extend the durability of the engine."

I always added a fuel additive to the MH and was sure to exercise the generator on a regular basis. On portable generators, I have 3, I always turn the fuel off while the engine is running and let them run out of fuel. No sticky carburetors that way.
The old school fuel additives do not work as well as some of the new ones marketed today.

I try to add Seafoam every time. Some hook up fuel line to a can with lots of seafoam added to gas and run it like that to clear the gunk. I do not like gas generators and cant wait until I sell this one. My cheap backup propane generator meets my emergency needs and doesnt need to be exercised, according to manufacturer (my regular needs are met by a cheap solar panel). This one solar panel charges all my electronics, blender, lithium batteries for my power tools, vacuum cleaner, recharges house battery just fine, the rest of my stuff operates off propane and I dont need A/C
opnspaces
Navigator II
Sep 17, 2023
mountaintraveler wrote:

I had run it from sea level to around 8000ft. My manual says that running it with higher altitude setting at low altitude will damage the generator. Not sure about the other way, but its supposed to sputter, surge, run poorly if altitude is high and isn't set in the generator. May be its not noticeable with newer generator in top shape.

This is how the above works. Your generator needs a mixture of fuel and air in the correct ratio of air to fuel to work properly (14.7 parts of air to 1 part of fuel is correct).

Say you set that mixture at sea level. Now when you go up to 8,000 feet there is less air. So if you make no changes then you might have 8 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. (that ratio is completely made up but the point is still valid). There ratio has too much fuel and not enough air. That is known as a rich condition which can cause sputter surge and loss of power. But it doesn't destroy the engine.

However, if you are at 8,000 feet elevation and you set your generator correctly so it has a 14:1 ratio everything is fine and your generator is happy. But when you go back to sea level there is a whole bunch more air. So you might now have a ratio of 20:1 (20 parts of air to each part of fuel) That is known as a lean condition and is very bad. When an engine is running lean it is running hot and can destroy itself in a short amount of time.
klutchdust
Explorer II
Sep 17, 2023
Something to think about if you own a generator.
"After a prolonged period of running without load, the engine will start to incompletely combust the fuel due to a lack of running hot enough and burning off the unburnt hydrocarbons.

To correct this situation, the generator should be run at nearly full load to warm up and burn off all the built-up soot buildup and unburnt fuel.

Running the generator at a high load for several hours will ensure that the combustion process in the engine is optimal and will extend the durability of the engine."

I always added a fuel additive to the MH and was sure to exercise the generator on a regular basis. On portable generators, I have 3, I always turn the fuel off while the engine is running and let them run out of fuel. No sticky carburetors that way.
The old school fuel additives do not work as well as some of the new ones marketed today.
mountaintravele
Explorer II
Sep 17, 2023
pnichols wrote:
If I was a bit younger and much richer, I think I'd consider this - 19'8" long and AWD - probably install a bit taller tires on it for more ground clearance, though:

https://pleasureway.com/models/ontour20/

By the way, its built on Ford Transit 250 which means little over 6 inches clearance, that's about the same as my class C. If I were richer I'd want some real offroad vehicle, a 4x4 raised truck with huge monster tires and fancy camper top, with over a foot of clearance.
mountaintravele
Explorer II
Sep 17, 2023
Glad I got class C, after all. All the excessive features are extra headache but cant beat the flush toilet, big water tank, the space and storage, it allowed me to comfortably boondock not staying in campgrounds for almost 9 months straight by now. I got good at finding remote isolated campsites where class C can get into and been camping miles away from nearest person for most of this time. Got to live in all kinds of natural environments where it'd be very uncomfortable without a good shelter. I just get out to some town once every 2-3 weeks to dump tanks and resupply, that's it (most places have 2 week camping limit anyway)
mountaintravele
Explorer II
Sep 17, 2023
pnichols wrote:
Ann Cat,

Hmmmm ... you mention regarding your Onan - "have to set altitude every time".

I've never adjusted the altitude setting on our built-in Onan generator regardless of what the manual may or may not say. It has always started right up and "run fine" at sea level or up in mountains. I wonder what the downsides of doing this were/are?

(However, from experience I know what goofing up and running an engine too lean, too long, can do to it. So I guess that my Onan may have only been run too rich on a lot of our motorhome trips.)

I had run it from sea level to around 8000ft. My manual says that running it with higher altitude setting at low altitude will damage the generator. Not sure about the other way, but its supposed to sputter, surge, run poorly if altitude is high and isn't set in the generator. May be its not noticeable with newer generator in top shape.
pnichols
Explorer II
Jul 05, 2023
Ann Cat,

Hmmmm ... you mention regarding your Onan - "have to set altitude every time".

I've never adjusted the altitude setting on our built-in Onan generator regardless of what the manual may or may not say. It has always started right up and "run fine" at sea level or up in mountains. I wonder what the downsides of doing this were/are?

(However, from experience I know what goofing up and running an engine too lean, too long, can do to it. So I guess that my Onan may have only been run too rich on a lot of our motorhome trips.)

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