32 ft class c a/c in the southern temps.
I Was wondering if any class c owner with a 32FT RV, if the one A/C keep the rv COOL in the summer temps in the south with high humidity
Forum Discussion
31' 2002 Bigfoot Class C w/ducted 13,500, Fulltime SC last 4 years, shade till 1pm and then afternoon sun thereafter
Last few years were ok, struggled some afternoons on the real hot days, but tolerable.
Original efforts to help AC:
1. leather-like windshield/front door windows bra
2. blanket for insulation draped between cab/coach
3. Installed window awnings for windows not shaded by the big awning
4. cut to fit bubble foil insulation for most windows wedged between windows and shades (the rolls Lowes sells that are 24" wide by 17 feet long--cut to fit).
5. cut the bubble foil to cover roof vents when not in use(install from the inside-on the outside roof already had installed the anti-rain covers): 2 fantastic fan vents and the bathroom vent--foil held in place by adhesive velcro (white to match vent housings) so can be easily removed to allow vents to function. yea, it does give that tin foil look on the housing when installed, but that bubble foil insulation is pretty helpful for both hot and cold conditions
This year an early heatwave made clear the AC was beginning to show its age. Still cooling, just couldn't keep up as well on those 90+ degree days even with insulation measures listed above.
couple weeks ago: Installed Frigidaire 8000 BTU window in slide-out LR window. Energy star rated, Weight 48lbs, amps 6.2. Made a small wood bracket for it to sit on to not damage window sill. No permanent fixtures, unit can be easily uninstalled in a few minutes. Unit has a very low profile and fits with the outside window awning extended--so unit is always shaded and practically invisible from the outside. Snaked a high amp contractor 50' extension cord through the slide-out so window unit does not draw on the 30 amp main power cable. Blocked the roof AC ducts to the LR so roof AC cools the bath/BR only. With a regular house-fan to push air back from LR to BR don't even need the roof AC on most days. On the hotter days 95^ + unbearably high SC humidity, window unit continuous with the roof AC cycling on/off 6-8 times/hour and inside temps easily held steady at 72. Very Happy.
Added benefit, haven't tried it yet but I imagine for summer boondocking a single Honda 2000 should have no trouble powering the 8000 AC given its low amperage draw.
Regards,
Jeremy
Last few years were ok, struggled some afternoons on the real hot days, but tolerable.
Original efforts to help AC:
1. leather-like windshield/front door windows bra
2. blanket for insulation draped between cab/coach
3. Installed window awnings for windows not shaded by the big awning
4. cut to fit bubble foil insulation for most windows wedged between windows and shades (the rolls Lowes sells that are 24" wide by 17 feet long--cut to fit).
5. cut the bubble foil to cover roof vents when not in use(install from the inside-on the outside roof already had installed the anti-rain covers): 2 fantastic fan vents and the bathroom vent--foil held in place by adhesive velcro (white to match vent housings) so can be easily removed to allow vents to function. yea, it does give that tin foil look on the housing when installed, but that bubble foil insulation is pretty helpful for both hot and cold conditions
This year an early heatwave made clear the AC was beginning to show its age. Still cooling, just couldn't keep up as well on those 90+ degree days even with insulation measures listed above.
couple weeks ago: Installed Frigidaire 8000 BTU window in slide-out LR window. Energy star rated, Weight 48lbs, amps 6.2. Made a small wood bracket for it to sit on to not damage window sill. No permanent fixtures, unit can be easily uninstalled in a few minutes. Unit has a very low profile and fits with the outside window awning extended--so unit is always shaded and practically invisible from the outside. Snaked a high amp contractor 50' extension cord through the slide-out so window unit does not draw on the 30 amp main power cable. Blocked the roof AC ducts to the LR so roof AC cools the bath/BR only. With a regular house-fan to push air back from LR to BR don't even need the roof AC on most days. On the hotter days 95^ + unbearably high SC humidity, window unit continuous with the roof AC cycling on/off 6-8 times/hour and inside temps easily held steady at 72. Very Happy.
Added benefit, haven't tried it yet but I imagine for summer boondocking a single Honda 2000 should have no trouble powering the 8000 AC given its low amperage draw.
Regards,
Jeremy
