99 Fleetwood Discovery 37V

Question

My diesel pusher cranked but didn't start.  Turned off key, continued to crank until batteries died.  Pulled start batts to charge (had frost on sides). Both 6V house batts were frozen and split.  Charged start batts for days in house had 14+V each.  Installed new house batts and the recharged start batts. NOTHING no crank - no wait to start light.  AUX start doesn't work either.  Checked all fuses I could find, swapped relays in chassis fuse panel.  Cleaned terminals on elect components under MH and battery compartment.  Physically unable to get at starter/solenoid connections.  Had start batts load tested-failed-replaced-charged in house over night-installed-NOTHING-no wait to start light-no crank-no solenoid click.  Shorted 2 larger terminals on a component under MH (slave solenoid?)heard solenoid-cranked and cranked but no start. Still no AUX start.  Other things I noticed:light on jacks down panel momentarily flashes and goes out;no lights on shift panel;ignition switch crank position does NOTHING;stovetop isn't getting propane(propane generator runs);tail lights are on when key in start position(light switch off.  Is this normal?  Sorry I can't identify the components because I have no clue what they are so I just cleaned them all and used dielectric grease on them.  Things like radio, wipers, rear view camera, heater etc all work.  Thanks for any ideas.

trackrig · Answer

It appears you have multiple problems. The one that would bother me most at this point is "wait to start" light not coming one. I'd say the glow plugs aren't working, but on this engine it's technically something else, but performs the same function. Someone will provide the correct terminology. Without them in the cold weather, you're not going to start it.

My 2005 Excursion has a 120VAC engine heater that will run off of the generator. You'll need it to start in colder weather. Does yours have the engine heater, were you using it?

Do you have the Cat C7? Let people know as there my be an electrical fuel shut off some place on it that isn't working.

Good luck and let us know the outcome.

Bill

dak605 · Answer

Thanks trackrigMy MH has started for years with just the glow plugs (until this year).  I turned on the block heater for a couple of days with no change.  But that was before I load tested the start batts and replaced them.  I can try that again.  Should the MH start that way or would a glow plug issue still prevent starting? According to the equipment sheet I have it says 275 HP W/65P.  There is a red switch by the drivers window by the jack and trans panels.  I'm guessing that is a manual way to turn on the glow plugs - that lights up when I turn it on.  Still below zero this morning but it's supposed to be 33 here for several days should give me better conditions to work in, tired of -20!

discovery4us · Answer

The red switch by the drivers window is normally to turn on the mirror heaters. If you have a block heater the switch is typically installed in the bedroom near the back drivers side corner.
The 37V has a similar layout to my 36t so check the drivers side night stand down by the bed frame, that is where my block heater switch is located.
Also the generator and appliances run off of two different propane tanks so two different off/on solenoids.

jimm68 · Answer

At this point you have a problem with primary power to the ignition switch.
This is a new problem, did not exist initially. May very well be that the start contacts on your ignition switch welded shut internally, and then the entire switch failed completely.

The first thing you need to do is get the ignition switch working again. In run the dash should light up, the gauges should be powered, the wait to start light should lite, the Allison shift pad should lite up, etc. All of this needs to happen before there is any reason to turn the key to start.

fcooper · Answer

I don't know what chassis you have but I remembered this post by Wolfe10 last year. Here is the text. I hope it helps.

If everything that only works when the ignition switch is ON (transmission shift pad, dash HVAC fan, gauges, etc) is not working the likely suspect is the ignition solenoid (more likely), ignition switch or wiring between the two.

Freightliner may be able to help you locate the ignition solenoid.

To test:

Will have two large lugs-- one reading chassis battery voltage all the time. The other should read the same voltage when and only when the ignition switch is on.

There will be either one or two small terminals. If only one, it will be the signal wire from the ignition switch. If two, the other will be ground. If only one, the ground is through the metal body.

If you do not get chassis battery voltage at the "other" large lug when the ignition is on, check for voltage at the small positive signal wire (should have 12 VDC positive). If that is what it has, but the other large lug doesn't have chassis battery voltage, the solenoid is BAD. Tapping on it may work short term.

If no voltage at the small signal wire with the ignition on, remove the small wire and use a jumper wire from the chassis battery large lug to the positive small signal wire. Small wire is fine-- it takes less than one amp to close the relay.

Emergency work around: Label all the wires on one large lug. Remove then and ADD them to the other large lug. All you have done is manually done what the ignition switch and solenoid do for you. Be sure to return wires to original position when you stop.

If you do have a Freightliner chassis, their help line may be able to help. They are very good, and no charge for their service. Have your vin number available and call 1 800 385-4357.

Good luck with your repair, and I hope your weather improves.

Fred

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99 Fleetwood Discovery 37V

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