air dump valve replacement
Just replace air dump valve on 2004 Meridian (Itasca) built in 2003.
Found dump valve on the Freightliner Schematic downloaded from dtnaconnect.com. I had gone to Camp Freightliner a few years ago (a valuable tool for maintaining your chassis). Also called Freightliner help desk and they instructed how to check location of connectors to check electric signal. One connector was behind the left foot rest under the dash (which also contained the DHS Surround sound pre amp, which I had been looking for for years!). Had to take footrest loose and move to side to find the wires and connectors. Wires from HWH panel were marked, 9000 and 9001 and third wire for negative. Had voltage from HWH panel when "level(dump)" or "store(travel)" selections were made on keypad. Then applied 12v to plug going down to valve. Heard solenoid click for "store" but not "level".
Found the dump valve (a Norgren directional control valve) mounted to a cross member near the center of front suspension front brake valves. Removed the two air lines and noted which ports of the valve they were connected to. Removed the two electrical plugs to the two solenoids. One of the screws broke off in the solenoid.
Took valve loose and tested on bench with 12v and didn't hear one of the solenoids click. Purchased new dump valve at Freightliner $513, ouch. It came with 9ft leads from solenoids to a 6 pin male plug.
Crawled back under to find the old solenoid wiring lead to a six pin plug in front of the steering gear up near front of vehicle.
Took hose connectors off of old valve and installed on new valve.
Two connectors were 90degree el's and one was straight (which didn't connect to anything.
New valve was slight different than old valve. Wouldn't fit same position as old which was mounted on front of frame member. It would fit on back of frame using original holes.
Hooked up everything same as old. Tried it and it didn't work in dump
or travel positions. Tried moving air lines and solenoids to opposite positions still didn't work. In all cases air would leak from valve.
Suspected bad valve or sticky spool in valve.
Purchased some 1/4 hose and fittings on amazon and moved valve and cable through window to drivers seat so I could trouble shoot from comfortable position. On second try it worked (I suspected the spool was stuck) Marked everything so I wouldn't get anything crossed when I moved back under vehicle.
Now works as it should.
Quite a challenge untying cable ties and removing old wiring and installing new wiring underneath vehicle.
Found dump valve on the Freightliner Schematic downloaded from dtnaconnect.com. I had gone to Camp Freightliner a few years ago (a valuable tool for maintaining your chassis). Also called Freightliner help desk and they instructed how to check location of connectors to check electric signal. One connector was behind the left foot rest under the dash (which also contained the DHS Surround sound pre amp, which I had been looking for for years!). Had to take footrest loose and move to side to find the wires and connectors. Wires from HWH panel were marked, 9000 and 9001 and third wire for negative. Had voltage from HWH panel when "level(dump)" or "store(travel)" selections were made on keypad. Then applied 12v to plug going down to valve. Heard solenoid click for "store" but not "level".
Found the dump valve (a Norgren directional control valve) mounted to a cross member near the center of front suspension front brake valves. Removed the two air lines and noted which ports of the valve they were connected to. Removed the two electrical plugs to the two solenoids. One of the screws broke off in the solenoid.
Took valve loose and tested on bench with 12v and didn't hear one of the solenoids click. Purchased new dump valve at Freightliner $513, ouch. It came with 9ft leads from solenoids to a 6 pin male plug.
Crawled back under to find the old solenoid wiring lead to a six pin plug in front of the steering gear up near front of vehicle.
Took hose connectors off of old valve and installed on new valve.
Two connectors were 90degree el's and one was straight (which didn't connect to anything.
New valve was slight different than old valve. Wouldn't fit same position as old which was mounted on front of frame member. It would fit on back of frame using original holes.
Hooked up everything same as old. Tried it and it didn't work in dump
or travel positions. Tried moving air lines and solenoids to opposite positions still didn't work. In all cases air would leak from valve.
Suspected bad valve or sticky spool in valve.
Purchased some 1/4 hose and fittings on amazon and moved valve and cable through window to drivers seat so I could trouble shoot from comfortable position. On second try it worked (I suspected the spool was stuck) Marked everything so I wouldn't get anything crossed when I moved back under vehicle.
Now works as it should.
Quite a challenge untying cable ties and removing old wiring and installing new wiring underneath vehicle.
