Forum Discussion

Calisdad's avatar
Calisdad
Explorer
May 07, 2014

Any Electrical Wizards Out There?

I just spent 4 days at a racetrack campground and our house battery drained each night. I just figured it was time for a new one but it charged up on the way home and held the charge for 2 days so far. I connected a DVM to the battery between the battery ground and the disconnected ground wire. Proceeded to pull fuses then found one of my lighting circuits seems to be the culprit.

I should say here we are dealing with a '94 Tioga Arrow and there are 2 lighting circuits. The green one seems to be at fault. I disconnected all my lights and switches and can't seem to find the problem. 2 recent repairs I've done were the bath fan replacement (on the green circuit) and a new water pump (different circuit, I think). We did have an issue with the refer failing to spark right away when we left for out trip but I unplugged it during my search and it seemed to be ok.

Now sitting in the driveway the refer and the water pump are off and the battery is holding a charge (probably aided by a small 12" square solar cell).

What would the experienced electrical sleuth do next to find the issue?

Thanks-
Calisdad

59 Replies

  • Thanks for all the replies!

    Basically we were boondocking at Sears Point Racetrack- no shore power, no nothing. And you can have our same campground for NASCAR next month for $3292.50 but that's another story.

    Can't find any lights on, believe it's a Magnatek 6345, had the DVM in the windshield where I could see it and pulled the fuses 1 at a time until the meter changed. Finally had them all out but the green lighting circuit and when I pulled it the meter dropped. Did this multiple times. Water pump has a pressure switch. I don't THINK the propane switch/detector is on this circuit. Smokes are not. I ran my genny while at the track for 30-40 minutes and got the battery up from 10.25v to 11.5v while at the track. It's 12.45v now.

    Tomorrow I was going to check the polarity on the fan tho I pulled the power at the switch and didn't have any effect. Wondering if the polarity on the pump might be an issue?? Guess I better find a DC clampon ammeter. I'll check that it's charging from shore power but I suspect it is.

    Thanks again- I'll check back.
  • Harbor Freight has these two testers that plug into the fuse socket and tell you if there is any current flowing in that circuit:

    Testers

    But also you should have your batteries tested. I recently had one of my house batteries go bad in Yosemite, and couldn't keep it charged up. It turned out one was bad, and dragged down the other. Autozone tested it, found it bad, and also charged my other battery.
  • Calisdad wrote:
    II should say here we are dealing with a '94 Tioga Arrow
    Is that a Magnetek 6300 converter with 6 amp charging?

    You have checked your storage compartments for a light left on.... Yes?
  • I had the same problem a few months back. What I found was that my converter was working just fine, but the leads to the battery off of the converter output terminal strip were loose.

    Just so it's perfectly clear... mostly at racetracks generators are used to produce 120 volts. Whether you are plugged into shore power, or on generator, that is still the same 120 volts, and that then goes to the converter and is turned into 12 volts that then charges the battery.

    When I was connected to power, the converter showed good voltage output on it, but the battery would not get charged. I eventually found it by being connected, and wiggling the wires on the terminal strip. When I found the loose wire, the interior lights immediately came on bright from the good voltage from the converter actually making it to the battery.

    It was exactly as you described though, when we drove the vehicle, the alternator voltage went to the battery, and charged it fine.

    So, before you change out the converter, make sure you have good wires. If you have the slightest doubt, use your jumper cables from the battery and connect short leads from the other end of the jumper cables to the converter output terminal strip, then see if you still have the problem. It's an easy check to do first, much easier than changing the converter.
  • I would use a DC clampon ammeter to find out and track down what is drawing amps from the battery and how much.
  • Are storage area lights on? It could also be smoke detectors and/or other electronic equipment.
  • Verify that other items are not on the circuit.
    Water pump may have a relay setup that turns water from multiple locations. Most are diode based and could be bad.
    Is your gas detector connected to this circuit.
    Is there any exterior lights connected? Maybe in compartment.
  • Sounds like a classic converter problem. Check the voltage at the battery terminals to make sure it's charging when you have it plugged into shore power versus unplugged. If it's not charging, pull the converter out of the housing (be careful with exposed voltage). Check to see if the reverse polarity fuses have been blown. They are typically on the side or back of the converter where you can't see them unless you pull it out.

    If the fuses are good, carefully plug back into shore power and check the converter where the 12v wires exit the converter with your meter. If the converter is not providing DC voltage, you'll need to replace it.